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Printing issues ...
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Oh my, I looked at the datasheet yet missed the diagram by a mile. Thank you.
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Quick question, does the SSR I posted in this thread have an optocoupler within it? If not, then can someone point me towards an SSR with the same capabilities plus includes an optocoupler integrated.
This one:
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I plan to not use PID for the heatbed, as bang-bang mode should suffice. Okay, thank you dc42, helpful as always. They should really make a system where you can thumb up or increase the rep of a user.
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
So technically, I shouldn't have a problem with the SSR working with the Azteeg x3 pro then? Are you basing these statements on experience or theory?
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I forgot to answer your question, dc42. Yes, I need it to be as high as 150 deg-C because it will be operating at 130 deg-C often. Furthermore, it was required to add future sustainability to it in order to use new materials in the future (which may need higher bed temperatures).
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3DPrintingNoob
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General
dc42
Thanks for all that info, I have a question. Firstly, I read some forums regarding the SSR connected to the board, now my SSR can handle 50/60Hz as it will be connected to mains supply which will have the same frequency. However, the PWM was mentioned to have frequencies as high as 60kHz, so is this not too high for the SSR to handle?
Andrew
Don't worry about it, it will be my responsibil
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3DPrintingNoob
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General
Okay thank you very much.
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I understand that I will need to include many safety features in order to avoid certain death. The reason the bed takes up so much power is because it is 700x700mm and needs to reach as high as 150 deg-C. It's the only way for the application I am using it in.
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I should also probably mention that I am not using a RADDS but an Azteeg x3 pro.
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
The heated bed I am using will be a silicone heat mat running directly from 230V mains supply. 2400W at 20 deg-C and 1700W at 150 deg-C.
I am using thick wires so it shouldn't be a problem.
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Hello, I need to select an SSR for a RADDS 1.3. The SSR will be connected to the D08 port on the controller. I found a decent SSR: however, I have been told that this won't work when connected to the D08 port because of AC voltage at the port or PWM or something like that.
Can you please tell me whether this will in fact work or NOT work. If it will work then just say that it will, and if not t
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I completely agree with you. The 70 to 85 deg-C range that I stated was the bed temperature of a PCB Mk1 with the thermistor in its centre. Also, an aluminium plate was on the bed. So the temperature on the surface would be less than that of the bed.
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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Printing
Hello,
If there is a small temperature difference in the print surface, how much could this affect the print sticking to the surface. For example, if I am printing PLA at 80 deg-C and on the other side of the surface it's at 75 deg-C. Would this affect the adherence of the part to the surface? Would there be warping?
I understand that PLA can be printed within 70 to 85 deg-C so there really sho
by
3DPrintingNoob
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Printing
Hello,
To control the 3D printer, a RADDS 1.2 with an Arduino Due shield will be used.
The following is a link to the diagram of the two components together: . It shows that the heatbed(s) can be provided with 12 V and 15 A from the board. Therefore, the only way to have it run is if the heatbeds are in parallel and have a rating of 12 V each. The problem is whether the board can also provide t
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I am thinking of using heat mats at 12 or 24 V as they can then be powered by the controller directly. At least, I assume they could be.
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Hello,
I have a question regarding the effects of temperature gradient across the print surface. I want to print ABS, however, would it print well if there was a temperature difference of 4 deg-C from end of the print surface to the other, for example?
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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Printing
Thank you! But I think I will need a wire with a higher current rating. I found a really good one with . I am awaiting their reply on costs.
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I thought I should add that the bed will be moving vertically, yes, however, it will be extremely slowly. So I don't think the cables need to be highly flexible. What I really need are cables that can withstand high temperatures, i.e. 150+ deg-C. Where would you suggest I can find some? I have found some suppliers but I thought maybe you would know better ones.
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I'm sorry, but my task is to work on the heated bed. I am in a team of 6 and each of us has something to do. The mechanical design has already been dealt with, the only issue now is how to power and control the heatbeds. I understand how basic electrical circuits work but what I am having trouble with is knowing how to implement the heatbeds together to work with the controller.
E.g. take a sili
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Don't get me wrong! We do have a printer! We have an Imagine printer. However, we are obviously not using an SSR in this case since it's just one heated bed. It may not seem so complicated but just by increasing the size of the print area by three times, the complexity of the project can really increase. Furthermore, this project has a deadline at the end of May, however, the parts and components
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Hello again,
I plan to use FOUR 300x300 mm silicone heatbeds capable of reaching 150 deg-C, all beds controlled by the controller board (e.g. RAMPS-FD). I am pretty sure the board can't provide enough power to power the beds as the board is rated at 12-24 V. HOWEVER, what if I select the four beds to be at 12 or 24 V each and connect them in series/parallel to the controller board? Would that wo
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Hello,
I would like to know why aluminium is usually used for the build plate. Why not other metals or other materials in general? (I assume we stick with metals since they conduct heat a lot more easily than other materials). But why aluminium?
Can someone please give me a reason.
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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Printing
Okay perfect. Once again thank you!
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Okay sounds good. So I can request for a specific voltage rating for the silicone bed?
I have a question regarding highly flexible high voltage cables, roughly how much does it cost for, say, a metre of such cables?
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
I understand that the beds would require 57.5 V each however, it says that the bed is rated for 12 V. Therefore, wouldn't 57.5 V cause the bed to short circuit?
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Good news, the aluminium plate will only be 800 x 800mm now. Also, the ribs will be machined out from the bottom of the plate. It's not too expensive, not too heavy, and definitely more rigid. It might be decided to just print onto the aluminium plate but perhaps with PET sheets on top or a metallic skin.
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
Hello again people,
I have modified the size of my build plate from 1300 x 800mm down to 800 x 800mm. This makes things a lot easier as I only need to used 4 heatbeds to heat the plate instead of 8.
The problem I am having is connecting the beds together. I don't know what configuration would be best.
The bed I plan to use requires 12 V and 270 W with a thermistor resistance of 100k. I want to
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
The problem would be attaching the ribs, could it be done by welding the ribs onto the bottom of the plate?
Is the sub-frame suggestion regarding a sort of "web" structure beneath the plate?
I would probably be able to select the specific aluminium class I would like.
Thank you
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
You'd think that more deviance from flatness can be tolerated for this large bed, however, the requirement specs for this printer are damn strict and they require a maximum flatness of 0.5mm. So it won't be easy. The most logical solution would be to increase the thickness of the plate, yes.
I am not so knowledgeable about the levelling mechanisms so to me that wedge sounds complicated. I would
by
3DPrintingNoob
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General
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