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Printing issues ...
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Halo bro2 master2 RepRap Indonesia
dah lama ga nimbrung2 di sini semenjak udah mulai lancar nge-print sendiri hehehe
Sedikit mau tanya aja, biasanya master2 di sini kalau pakai hotend apa dan dari mana ya?
Saya biasa pakai hotend E3D V5, beli dari beragam penjual di Tokopedia.
Most of the time sih sebenernya baik2 aja, cuma kadang suka agak nge-jam aja filamennya ketika masuk, dan harus dicobl
by
Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Hi all,
I'm having a prusa-styled printer using RAMPS.
I'm building a dual extruder setup with heated bed and print fan.
Since RAMPS only has 3 heater output, I branched the third output to a switch to select either fan or bed (since printing with heated bed generally don't require print fan and vice versa).
So, the problem is, when I am trying to do dual extrusion printing, my RAMPS fuse seems
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Hi All,
I'm having a printer with RAMPS and equipped with a heated bed.
I'm having trouble with turning on the bed. When I turned it on, the LED for the respective heater only blinks faintly. I am sure that all the electronics are fine because when I changed the bed into a fan, it worked; when I was connecting the bed but setting it as a fan in the firmware, it also warmed. It only troubles when
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Hi All,
I'm currently building my second printer. In my first, I was using Melzi board because I bought a kit. This time, I'm building from scratch and using Arduino Mega + RAMPS. My printer model is Prusa i3 with dual extruder.
What's weird is this:
Firstly, I was testing my one of my extruders to do several prints, and had undergone heating for several times. And it was all OK.
Then I tried th
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Ane paling hobi edit2 gcode buat kalo print besar gagal di tengah2 dan merasa wasting material and time banget kalo ulang dari awal. Kalau print gagal kita ga bisa ngontrol gagalnya kapan (maunya mah pasti ga gagal ), saya biasanya pake cara yang persis dijabarkan bro zungmann di atas, tapi sayangnya seringnya gagal itu ga pas tepat pergantian layer, tapi pas lagi di tengah2 bikin layer, jadi ya
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Dear All,
I'm having trouble in printing ABS. I've got used to printing PLA and it's always printed good. When it comes to ABS, it's a lot different.
I'm trying to print this usual marvin and won't be moving on until it comes out good. My greatest challenge here is about temperature.
I'm using Prusa i3-styled printer, without closed chamber and with a heated bed. The bed material is masking t
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Vashikovich
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Printing
Hi!
I'm wondering about this printing issue I get.
Below is a pict of my print focusing on seam.
I'm using slic3r and set the seam to aligned. It's understandable that the seam is not perfectly aligned for the entire print, but what I wonder is why the behaviour is quite different for different area.
The far side of the picture is the first layer.
This part of seam is quite good. Just a little
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Vashikovich
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Printing
Quotedjunz.aza
banyak yang gk pake karena delay problem. tp bagi yang ngerti cara ngatasin delay nya gak masalah. saya ud coba dah slicing menggunakan simplify hasil nya baik baik saja.
yg dimaksud delay tuh delay apa ya?
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
baca2 sih katanya gitu, which is 0.4 untuk nozzle 0.5.
Tapi herannya saya pakai layer di atas 0.3 aja udah printing in the air gitu. dulu pakai nozzle 0.4 juga 0.28 udah printing in the air, padahal harusnya 80%-nya 0.32.
Mungkin bawah ane lebih tau
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Halo agan2
Di sini ada yg jual atau ada yg tau yg jual filamen ABS yg murah meriah? Non-branded preferred, belum fokus ke kualitas, yg penting ada media dulu untuk eksperimen bahan nge-hits yg satu ini hehe.
Terima kasih
by
Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
coba post foto close up-nya dong yg PLA di-treat pake uap acetone sebelum dan sesudah.
jadi penasaran PLA bisa diasetonin juga
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
QuoteHendri_jb
Quotedjunz.aza
Retract Distance naekin. ane pake 2mm. retrac speed ane pake 30ms. travel speed juga agak cepet. ane pake 75ms.
Maaf nyolong, mau tanya...
Setting Retract di slic3r dimananya?
Terima kasih.
Di sini, om -> http://manual.slic3r.org/
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Aurora memang by design banyak cacatnya.
Salah satunya yg koplak itu dan memang harus diganjal dalamnya.
Kalau masalah hotbed posisinya berubah2, pada dasarnya emang Z leadscrew aurora gampang turun gampang miring, jadi periodically harus dibenerin lagi posisinya. tapii, ga sesering itu kok, paling seminggu sekali baru signifikan.
Kalo berubah2nya dalah hitungan jam, cek semua mekaniknya, apakah
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Maap, bro Herman, maksud saya kualitas buat print out of the box, keluar kardus lgsg nge-print.
Kan kalo udah di-tune udah ga perawan lagi itungannya hehe
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Quoteryannining
Printer saya yg saya pakai, rakitan sendiri jenis COREXY malah GA PAKE ENDSTOP SAMA SEKALI.... Yg penting bentuk dan dimensi cetak disetting di aplikasi repetier/slicer bener, maka slicer gaakan melakukan gerakan diluar itu.
Mengurangi kabel2 dan kerumitan, menambah area cetak sedikit
Hoho, boleh juga ga pake endstop, asal jangan lupa geserin aja setiap nge-print. Kalo orang
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
kalau secara manual mah diapain aja bisa atuh. dibongkar aja bisa apalagi cuma sekedar labas
tapi kalau ketika beroperasi labas baru lain cerita. endstop diparalel malah makin mengacaukan.
printer ini mesin bodoh, tau dari mana dia endstop mana yg kepencet? ada sih yg masang endstop di 2 sisi, di min dan max, tapi ga paralel, beda input, jadi printer tau endstop mana yg kepencet.
endstop max sb
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
QuoteHendri_jb
Numpang bertanya...
Kalau ingin memposisikan z agar berjarak setebal kertas dengan hotbed menggunakan cara offset diatas (offset untuk z) bisa kah?
Terima kasih.
Kalau masalah mekanis, bnerin di mekanisnya. Settingan software yg untuk ngubah mekanis itu sifatnya cuma buat eksperimen, temporal, jangan dijadiin permanent setting.
This is including, but not limited to:
- Z offset (at
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Lapor, Komandan!
Ini foto barang buktinya. Sebuah telur naga curian dari Thingiverse :
Ini pelakunya :
Aurora Z605 jebolan Jaknot yg sekarang di bawah asuhan Vashikovich.
Modus operandi :
Pelaku menggunakan PLA ungu non-brand dengan kecepatan 80mm/s (200mm/s travel) dan ketebalan lapisan 0.1mm.
Kronologis kejadian :
Aurora Z605 pertama lulus dari Jaknot pada bulan April, dirakit selama sem
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Hi all.
I've been printing with ease all these times, limiting my flow rate to around 15cm3/s. I calculated it with a formula of (layer height x extrusion width x speed) CMIIW.
I have a 0.5mm nozzle and running on 200°C PLA.
It should be fine and it has been fine most of the time.
I just got clicks from my drive gear while extruding however. It's like, i've been running for weeks, then it happen
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Vashikovich
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Printing
You're right, I almost forgot about lorentz force. The only things that are ferromagnetic along the Y assembly are smooth rods, threaded rods, and bearing; but they are on the sides. I think the magnetic force is strong to bend 2mm aluminium clad.
Looking at the PCB bed heater, the copper trace has a snaking pattern rather than spiraling, so, any magnetic field generated should cancel out, hence
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Vashikovich
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Printing
I just did another test and here is the temp graph :
cristian pointed it out right. See those spikes on bottom right? The banding, i.e., underextrusion, happened exactly when the heated bed was turned on for a moment.
It was as if all the power channelled for the bed leaving the extruder motor under powered.
Is it because the power supply weak?
EDIT : It wasn't the extruder getting less power
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Vashikovich
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Printing
Quotecristian
Heated bed?
yes. I was suspecting temperature, but the temp graph seems very stable.
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Vashikovich
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Printing
Quotecristian
Do you use auto bed leveling? In that case, does the banding occur if you disable it?
Or do you use a geared extruder? In that case, is the banding the same if you print with infill?
I don't use neither auto bed levelling nor geared extruder.
Quotethe_digital_dentist
If the part starts to wobble because it isn't firmly attached to the bed the wobble will get worse the taller the p
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Vashikovich
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Printing
I just printed it with different layer height; from left to right : 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 mm.
It seems the banding is not mechanical related but rather software related because the banding starts sooner and denser in lower layer height.
From 0.1 to 0.2, the banding start layer seems doubled and the banding density is also halved. But from 0.2 to 0.3 it also oddly doubled and halved (should be just 3/2)
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Vashikovich
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Printing
Hi fellow rappers,
Today I just realized this upon my prints :
That cube is single walled, 3x3x3cm.
I was printing it using my prusa i3-styled printer, with 0.2mm layer. I'm not really sure what it is. My Z thread rod is Tr8*8, it has 8mm pitch. Consequently, true wobbling only occurs with a period of 8mm, and banding only occurs then I'm using layer height not a multiple of 0.04mm.
That ima
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Menarik.
Gagal 2x gara2 copot dari bed mid-print. Bro2 di sini buat PLA pakai alas apa sih?
Modal printer aurora, setelah kalibrasi kian lamanya, ternyata ada wobble-nya lumayan keliatan di sini baru sadar hahahaha
Settingan sayah :
Slic3r, speed (orang2 kalo nyebut speed tuh speed apanya sih yg dimaksud?) print 80mm/s travel 150mm/s; tapi cooling max 5s perlayer, jadi gatau deh jadi slowed do
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
Permisi nimbrung, agan2 suhu. maaf, mungkin agak OOT, mau nanya pertanyaan lanjutan,
Kan umumnya delta itu bisa nge-print lebih cepat dari cartesian. Nah, apakah ga kebentur limit volume perdetik yg bisa di-handle sama extruder+hot end? Kalau iya, berarti untuk layer height yg besar, i.e., 0.3mm jatuhnya jadi sama2 aja ya? Speed kencangnya akan lebih berasa di layer height kecil (<= 0.1mm). B
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Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
If your printer failed to lay down wide extrusion even at your extrusion width equal to your nozzle size, what you get there is an under extrusion.
Check everything that is associated with it, i.e., filament diameter (including its consistency), extruder driver current (if it's clicking), extruder steps/mm, partial clogging, etc.
Mine was due to insufficient grip on the drive. This led to filam
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Vashikovich
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Printing
Hi,
I've been using slic3r for quite a while. I've also been using nozzle with 0.4 and 0.5 orifice and I currently using the latter.
Most of the time on my early days of glory with 3D printers, I just used auto setting for extrusion width (by setting 0 of everything) with my 0.4 nozzle. Days passed, along with my steadily increasing knowledge of FDM/FFF, I realized that it wasn't quite right, es
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
masrodjie, saya penasaran itu yg mur 3d print tambahan untuk lead screw sumbu Z itu bagaimana cara kerjanya ya? kok bisa bikin jadi gak gampang turun?
sama mau nanya, kalau extruder bawaan dari sananya itu bagus, normal, atau jelek sih? soalnya pengalaman selama ini kayak nggak konsisten hasil printing-nya, kadang bagus, beberapa waktu kemudian jadi jelek kayak over extruded gitu tapi buat nge-p
by
Vashikovich
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Indonesia RepRap User Group
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