Show all posts by user

Re: Designs with a "halo" - 3 years ago

Thanks for the lengthy reply! I have download the cadd model of your machine and have been looking at it as well as the skgo machine which I think looks similar to the xy part of yours. I would definitely have the plate mounted on a frame. I was thinking a continuous plate would be more rigid than the two plates but when the two plates brace the corners maybe it would not make a difference.

by msaeger - CoreXY Machines

Re: Designs with a "halo" - 3 years ago

Here is another example of what I am thinking.

by msaeger - CoreXY Machines

Designs with a "halo" - 3 years ago

Anyone know of designs of core xy machines that use a "halo" like a plate on the top with the core xy mechanism / motors. I have seen the e3d tool changer using this and a conversion for the railcore. Are there any others?

by msaeger - CoreXY Machines

Re: Bubbles under Build Surface - 5 years ago

I know my warped build surface wasn't from that because I am printing on a piece of glass. My issue was the pcb heater being warped and the thin glass conforming to it. My issue was solved by putting an aluminum plate on top of the pcb heater.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Folger Tech RepRap Prusa i3 - General Advice - 5 years ago

The first issue I had was getting the Y axis rods positioned correctly so they are parallel and spaced correctly. It wasn't a big deal to do it but in the version of the instructions I had they didn't really cover that. I would get it working with the stuff in the kit then start upgrading! The best upgrades I did were adding an aluminum plate over the bed pcb heater so the bed it actually flat.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: PETG Fuzz - 5 years ago

What are you using for the print surface? Mine is glass and I put aquanet on there. When I have trouble with it not sticking it is because I am too far from the bed. You could try a higher bed temp too. I am doing 245/80 for temps on the microcenter petg I have been using.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Einsy retro/rambo? - 5 years ago

Quotedc42 Most discussion about RRF take place on the forum at duet3d.com, not here. Thanks I was looking at the forum a little bit. I see tons of videos, forum posts, how to's on Marlin stuff but I haven't really been looking for RRF and it's probably like o_lampe said it's just easier to use. From what I have seen the configuration does look much more user friendly.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: PETG Fuzz - 5 years ago

Is that the top of the print? I would guess too hot or too far from the bed.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Einsy retro/rambo? - 5 years ago

Quotedc42 You would quite likely need to change your stepper motors too, because TMC2130 drivers can't handle as much current as many other types. They are optimised for use with higher inductance/lower current motors and 24V power. Please note, I don't know what motors your Folgertech printer uses, so they may be OK with the TMC2130 after all. An alternative for you may be TMC2660 drivers, whic

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Einsy retro/rambo? - 5 years ago

Quoteo_lampe You might find the 2130 aren't super quiet on 12V. They really get better on 24V. Thanks for the info. That is disappointing I really do not want to change all of that stuff at once.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Einsy retro/rambo? - 5 years ago

So I have a folgertech 2020i3 (prusa i3 knockoff) it has been running fine for a few years but I am getting the urge to do something with it and I keep reading about how much quieter the Trinamic TMC2130 drivers are which led me to find the Einsy boards. I see there is a Einsy rambo which is the one used by Prusa on the MK3 and there is a Einsy retro. If I am reading the connector descriptions ri

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: AliExpress - 5 years ago

I look on there but have only purchased a couple of times because I always seem to be able to find a seller in the usa on ebay selling the same thing for only slightly more or the same price. I think people go on aliexpress and buy a large quantity then resell on ebay and make a slight profit.

by msaeger - Reprappers

Re: Converting 12v to 24v - 5 years ago

How about use two power supplies keep the 12 volt one and move just the heat bed to it's own 24 volt one.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: E3D Lite6 mod - 6 years ago

You can change over to the full metal V6 by replacing the heat sink and the heat break which is pretty cheap so I would bother messing around unless you have the materials and just want to experiment.

by msaeger - Reprappers

Re: Merging Two Printers: A Noob's Nightmare - 7 years ago

I think you are going to end up just buying the rest of the genuine prusa parts to build his machine using the upgrade kit. I can't see much working from the folgertech one easily except the power supply. I do not believe you can flash prusa's firmware to the ramps / arduino and without that you couldn't take advantage of the features you want anyway. Maybe the bearings and smooth rods would work

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: tweaking printer need ideas. - 7 years ago

What material?

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Print stuck to glass - 7 years ago

Run water over it the glue is water soluble.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago

QuoteSlaghton So, i was looking at making my 2020 Prusa i3 printer quieter and thought about buying/swapping one of the X/Z motors (which are silent) for the Y bed motor (which is noisy as fck). I can't even hear my X carriage moving back and forth but i can hear the Y moving from halfway across the house lol. Other than the torque rating, is there really any other difference between these moto

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: how to print without using the sd card - 7 years ago

I used to only run tethered and had no issues. I have now been going with sd and I agree it's annoying. I have been considering trying octoprint.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Any idea why my printer has started doing this? - 7 years ago

Looks like it's not sticking maybe you need to get closer to the bed.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Is there a manual / tutorial showing all serttings on printer screen - 7 years ago

I'm not finding anything either but post which display you have and if there is something you don't know what it does and maybe we can tell you.

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago

QuoteLBussy Seeking to buy/build a Prusa i3-ish printer. I see this one has quite a following. Would this still be a recommended printer for a person new to printing in general? Is this akin to the original or the MK2? Sorry for the remedial questions. I started reading the thread but at 174 pages it just might take me a minute. I would not say this kit is in the same league as the origina

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: hight distance nozzle - 7 years ago

I agree with you I would however add some kind of micro adjustable Z end stop so you can adjust the nozzle height independent of the bed level. That way you can get the bed level and just leave it alone and be able to chance the nozzle height if you need too. Here is an example

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Marlin configuration.h - 7 years ago

PID auto tune.

by msaeger - Reprappers

Re: Prints not solid - 7 years ago

Is your filament size set right in your slicer?

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago

Quoteanimoose > BTW, this thread is dying. Dying after 174 pages doesn't seem so bad. This must be one of the longest threads on the forum, and it's been amazingly helpful and constructive throughout. I can't speak for anyone else, but for me the FT 2020 was a stepping stone. I learned a ton about building, using and modifying 3D printers from it, and then eventually moved on to a new one (E

by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants

Get 2004 display to show a countdown - 7 years ago

I used to always print with the computer connected so I would get a time remaining in Repetier but I have now shifted to printing from SD. My display counts up hours and minutes and shows a percent completed but I would rather have it show a countdown timer. Is there somewhere I can configure to get this or can this not be changed?

by msaeger - Reprappers

Re: Need help finding wire - 7 years ago

How about just buy an ear phone and cut the ends off?

by msaeger - Reprappers

Re: Cleaning after printing? - 7 years ago

I have never done anything unless I am switching filament.

by msaeger - Printing

Re: Thumping extruder stepper - 7 years ago

I think you need to raise the temp. I have been doing pla more like 195 or 200. Bad adhesion and extruder clicking both could be from the temp being too low.

by msaeger - Printing