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Printing issues ...
Outer shell has imperfections, What could be the cause? - 9 years ago
I have a FolgerTech Prusa i3 with stock Extuder/hotend, only "modification" that I've done to it is add a active part cooling fan. I purchased it a few years ago when the 3D printer hype was high, and enjoyed using it. Made many great prints. Then I went abroad, didn't use it for about a year. I have a project in mind, and so I began using it again, with a new spool of PLA, fresh from FoxSmart.by MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Re: Disabling Endstops/Defaulting to Certain Coordinates? - 9 years ago
Quoteo_lampe G28 Z G92 X0 Y0 That will do the trick, as I also have no endstops in my CoreXY yet. You can also place jumpers between gnd and the X/Y endstop pins to fake an imidiately triggered endstop. Then you can use "G28" for all axis. Yes thank you. I figured out that removing G28 from the slicer prevents homing. Does the G92 line force the printer to believe that those are the current coby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Disabling Endstops/Defaulting to Certain Coordinates? - 9 years ago
Quoteo_lampe G28 Z G92 X0 Y0 That will do the trick, as I also have no endstops in my CoreXY yet. You can also place jumpers between gnd and the X/Y endstop pins to fake an imidiately triggered endstop. Then you can use "G28" for all axis. Yes thank you. I figured out that removing G28 from the slicer prevents homing. Does the G92 line force the printer to believe that those are the current coby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Disabling Endstops/Defaulting to Certain Coordinates? - 9 years ago
Quoteo_lampe G28 Z G92 X0 Y0 That will do the trick, as I also have no endstops in my CoreXY yet. You can also place jumpers between gnd and the X/Y endstop pins to fake an imidiately triggered endstop. Then you can use "G28" for all axis. Yes thank you. I figured out that removing G28 from the slicer prevents homing. Does the G92 line force the printer to believe that those are the current coby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Disabling Endstops/Defaulting to Certain Coordinates? - 9 years ago
Quoteo_lampe G28 Z G92 X0 Y0 That will do the trick, as I also have no endstops in my CoreXY yet. You can also place jumpers between gnd and the X/Y endstop pins to fake an imidiately triggered endstop. Then you can use "G28" for all axis. Yes thank you. I figured out that removing G28 from the slicer prevents homing. Does the G92 line force the printer to believe that those are the current coby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Disabling Endstops/Defaulting to Certain Coordinates? - 9 years ago
I'm working on a project that involves using a Ramps 1.4 board, and Marlin as the firmware. I've figured almost everything out, but have one thing to work out: How can I disable endstops? The concept of this device is that instead of being limited to a a certain area, the device can be placed on the ground, and will draw whatever is sent to it via bluetooth (Note: This isn't a 3D printer, but raby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Dual X and Y stepper Motors? - 9 years ago
Wouldn't I lose torque/precision? How would the drivers hand it, considering the motors are rated for their max? (Or do I understand the rating incorrectly? I've read a few things about individual coil current draw being different, and that I wouldn't actually set the value on the drivers to their maximum potential.) I found the lines for dual x and dual y in Marlin, is this what I'm looking for?by MegaRocketPenguin - General
Dual X and Y stepper Motors? - 9 years ago
Greetings, I am building a printer, and need some help on figuring out how to go about connecting the stepper motors. I currently have 4x 2a NEMA17 motors, and some a4988 Pololu drivers. If I understand correctly, I could only drive one motor per driver, due to the current rating. However, I need to have two X and two Y motors, due to design. I've read about wiring in series/parallel, but I'd mby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: X and Y axis shifting??? - 10 years ago
QuotePaul Wanamaker Yes, Windex. If you think about it, women have to be able to shampoo it out of their hair... So it's water/soap soluble. . Except, they don't bake their hair at 110C for 15-20 hoursby MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Re: X and Y axis shifting??? - 10 years ago
Really? Ill try that. Acetone was the best solvent I found that worked... But even that took a good 15 minutes. I'll try it next time I print ABS Thanks!by MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Re: X and Y axis shifting??? - 10 years ago
An UPDATE: Ok, so I found out why my printer stopped working. Flipping. User. Error. I just recently began using hairspray for ABS prints. Stuff works wonderfully. The ABS sticks like glue. Even though it is a complete pain to remove it from the glass (How do you wash off baked hairspray??? It forms a film on the glass that takes an hour of scraping to get off...) it is much easier to apply andby MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Re: X and Y axis shifting??? - 10 years ago
Paul Wanamaker, Thanks for the link! I was looking for that. Downunder35m, Its interesting, because I haven't changed any acceleration settings... It just stopped working all of a sudden. How would one correctly calibrate a RAMPS driver? I have access to a multimeter. What would I set, and to exactly what number(s)? What is adequate acceleration/speed? I have the speed set to 60mm/s for infilby MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
X and Y axis shifting??? - 10 years ago
I bought the FolgerTech 2020 Aluminium Prusa i3 about 5 months ago, and have had no problems with it, until now. I've gone through about 2kg of filament so far, 1.3kg of PLA and .7kg of ABS. Printing has gone great, and no real issues, other than the few user errors that were easily fixed. Now, I am having a very big problem, and not much time to fix it in. For some reason, every one of my prby MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Hotend Heat Break? - 10 years ago
I have a friend who owns a Makerbot Replicator 2. Due to the excessive temps Makerbot demands you print at, along with a few user errors, the PTFE heat break has crapped out, and causes severe jamming. Question is, where do you buy one of these things?! I find places for the aluminum block, the heating element, nozzle, the whole setup, BUT the PTFE heat break. Where is the most legit source of buby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Sanded/Etched Glass Build Plate? - 10 years ago
Yea, but does that work with kepton?by MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Sanded/Etched Glass Build Plate? - 10 years ago
I'm fine with the abs sludge, its the kepton that is a pain to put down (air bubbles and wrinkles)... I usually have my heat bed at around 110C, so it isn't much of a problem there... They also have that glass diffuser spray... Frost glass I thinking it is... Wonder if that would work. Gotta buy some more glass to test this on...by MegaRocketPenguin - General
Sanded/Etched Glass Build Plate? - 10 years ago
Has anyone ever tried sanding or etching glass in order to have better adhesion? I don't have too many problems with PLA and diluted elmers glue, but do suffer the warping of ABS. When I print with ABS, I put down a layer of Kepton, sand it, and then put down a layer of ABS sludge/juice. This works pretty well for me (Better than just the ABS sludge alone/Kepton alone/Nonsanded Kepton + ABS sludgby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: ABS Print Temps - 10 years ago
I fortunately haven't had any clogging issues whatsoever... However, I am still using the stock hotend that came with my folgertech, which has a PTFE liner... No money to spend on an E3D (Oh how I would love two of them... Or even one for now...) I also need to install a fan for it...by MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Re: ABS Print Temps - 10 years ago
I manually changed the temp by watching the Print, and when it would get to the notch, I would turn down the temp by 5C. The print is strong, and I cannot pull part the layers (I broke it, and it broke off in a chunk, not along the layer line) I don't have a fan, so I didn't use it for PLA either (Though I still got some pretty decent prints. Overhangs and bridging wasn’t the best though...) I haby MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Re: ABS Print Temps - 10 years ago
I used the STL, not the GCODE, so it was for ABS when I printed it. Either way, I had no issues whatsoever printing at 200C Thing is, the source I got it from (FoxSmart) claims that their ABS works best at a higher temp. However, when printing at 235C, I get extreme amounts of warping and curling... My heatbed runs at 110C and I have no cooling fan installed yet (For the filament. I have one forby MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
ABS Print Temps - 10 years ago
So I printed this on my FolgerTech 2020 Prusa i3 to find what temp is best for ABS with the filament I have, and well... I'm stumped. I started at 225C, and began working my way down to 195C. Beyond the overhang getting gradually better the colder I got, nothing else changed. Each stage had a very minimal curl at the corners, but beyond that and the overhangs, I can see no visual difference fromby MegaRocketPenguin - Printing
Re: New Power supply? - 10 years ago
Quotedc42 ATX power supplies can be used to power 3D printers, but you need to add a minimum load on at least the 5V output to get them to work properly. A 12V auto brake light bulb will probably do. The regulation on the 12V output tends to be poorer than on the LED supplies, unless you get an expensive branded ATX PSU. This sometimes makes it difficult to get the heated bed up to 100C or so forby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: New Power supply? - 10 years ago
For a quick fix, would it be possible to use 2 ATX power supplies? I have a 16a 12v output ATX, and an 8a 12v ATX. Could I wire the 16a to the heatbed terminal, and the 8a to the Ramps/steppers/extruder? Or, since I haven't started using the heated bed yet (Would really like to start now, was going to, but them my power supply died) could I just not use it, and wire the 16a to the Ramps/steppers/by MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: New Power supply? - 10 years ago
Yea, mine came with a 360W 30A 12v Chinese led strip power supply, which failed pretty fast (Thread can be found here ) Was just wondering if there is anything better for similar price ranges. Any supplier better than the other? Or (As I assume) probably all from the same manufacturer?by MegaRocketPenguin - General
New Power supply? - 10 years ago
The power supply on my FolgerTech 2020 Prusa i3 died a few weeks ago, and I have pretty much given up on trying to fix it. So, with that said, I need a new power supply. Can anyone recommend anything for a decent price (Preferably under 40$)? I currently only have a single extruder and a hotbed, however, future plans are to get a dual extruder, and so that also needs to be taken into account on aby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Pop! Goes the Power Supply - 11 years ago
Quotemadmike8 I use a USFF Dell 220W 18A DA-2 Power Brick. I used it because it was free to me. So far, so good on my Funbot with 4 steppers, SmartLCD, MK3 Aluminum Heatbed, and 40W hotend. I've only been running it a couple months, so I can't tell you it will last long term. But it's worth a shot if you can get it free. Dell USFF DA-2 Mod Link Okidoke, might try that, at least temporarily if aby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Pop! Goes the Power Supply - 11 years ago
Quotedc42 Your main choices are the following: 1. Cheap ATX PSUs. The 12V regulation is typically poor and the PSU may be unreliable. Not recommended. 2. Cheap LED/CCTV power supplies. This is probably what you had. They are entirely adequate when they work, but may be prone to infant mortality. I use them in both my printers. I haven't had one fail yet, but I have heard of this type of PSU faiby MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Pop! Goes the Power Supply - 11 years ago
QuoteAndrewBCN All your questions about power supplies are answered in (surprise, surprise...) the wiki. Choosing a Power Supply for your RepRap Ah, forgot to check there, thanks!by MegaRocketPenguin - General
Re: Pop! Goes the Power Supply - 11 years ago
Quotetmorris9 What caused it is either A: you caused a short circuit during your wore management (wire pinched or bare section contact) or B: it was just your power supply failure time <---- Less likely. So you need to find the problem with the wiring and fix it before you hook up another supply. I would match the output of the original supply at minimum. So if it was a 30A then buy another 3by MegaRocketPenguin - General