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Printing issues ...
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Quoteto-the-nth
Has anyone been successful in removing the adhesive backing and reattaching to a glass bed with 468MP?
I moved my printbite a few days back.
Had to remove from an aluminium plate.
Got 1 corner to lift, then used a few thin bamboo skewers to gradually lift as I worked across, and prevented it from re-adhering on to the plate.
Adhesive was removed by wetting the adhesive with ac
by
DaveOB
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General
QuoteFloyd
How can you temporarily grow your printer 100mm?
it's a home modified i3 design that has makerslides and threadbar on the Z axis that I can change up to the limit of the threadbar ( 900mm )
by
DaveOB
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General
Hi
Because my Z axis at 300mm fits in my heated enclosure for ABS prints.
Not very often that I want to increase the Z to 400 or 600, so prefer to change it with gCode if possible
by
DaveOB
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General
In my Marlin config I have the setting :
#define Z_MAX_POS 300
I am extending the Z axis to 400mm temporarily for a print.
Is there a gCode that I can use to change the Z_MAX_POS to 400 without having to reflash the Arduino ?
by
DaveOB
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General
I understand the limitations of my e3dv5 and Volcano blocks, with regards to nozzle size affecting the flow rate, the maximum flow rate that a block can maintain ( without passing chunks of semi solid filament ), etc.
Now I want to start printing some much larger items that require less detail. I am lookng at modifying the nozzle from 0.8 up to 1.5 mm or even 2 mm.
However, with the above menti
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DaveOB
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Developers
QuoteAnna & Karl
The question is: Print Bite is durable, but does it wear off after time? Would too many wipes with acetone or the high temperatures of printing ABS damage it? Does it acumulate dirt or dust?
Personally used PrintBite for 18 months ( same sheet ) and print ABS on a daily basis ( average 5 hours a day, 5 days a week ). Only ever had a problem once when changed from ABS to PETG
by
DaveOB
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General
Quotenewbob
Some relays have more than two NO leads, one set could be connected to hotbed MOSFET the other to hotend MOSFET board.
If we use an external Mosfet Module for the bed and another Module for the hotend, then we can add a NO relay between the PSU and the 2 modules ( split the output from the relay to the 2 modules ). In this setup, any MaxTemp fault would terminate power to both the be
by
DaveOB
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General
Quotenewbob
I read that failed MOSFETs often short-circuit therefore two modules in series are needed to protect from runaway heater. I'm not sure however how well two in series would work in PWM mode.
This is a very interesting point, and I imagine this could be as much as problem for the Ramps on-board Mosfet, just as much as an external Mosfet.
So the simplest solution that I see is to have
by
DaveOB
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General
Have been thinking about this for a few days.
Am testing an idea and prototyping parts for the design at the moment to have an off-printer diameter sensor mounted after the spool.
Logic is :
Take 2 measurements of the filament diameter ( at 90 degrees apart to account for oval shaped filament ), and repeat the process multiple times for each 10mm of filament.
Average out the values, calc the
by
DaveOB
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General
Hi
Considering the TMC2100 driver for my i3 that has Nema17 1.7A steppers.
I see the specs on the TMC2100 drivers are :
I see the specs of the TMC2100 list :
Default Vref is 0.65v, Max 1.3V,Min 0.
Default Current is 0.5a, Max current is 1A ... does this mean that I can not run my steppers using the TMC2100 driver ?
by
DaveOB
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General
OK. I have recently seen the guru's warnings about the risks of soldering the ends of wires for the Ramps power input and D8 / 9 / 10 connectors for hotend and bed heaters.
Living in Africa, we have limited variety of available parts, and have been hunting for bootlace ferrules to 'fix' the wires to the screw terminals.
Unfortunately this is not going to happen, at least not in this area.
So I
by
DaveOB
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RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDjDemonD
Or, and I am being a little sarcastic here, just beef it up using the D8 Mosfet!
unless you wanted to use D8 for something else
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DaveOB
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General
Thank You DjDemonD
Only just ordered the module so will take a while to arrive.
Thanks for the guidance and the ideas.
I suppose if the module does not work with a 5V signal, we could always beef up the signal with a transistor, or something like a 4N25 opto, controlled by 5V from the output pin, and connect the 12V PSU to the Mosfet Module Input.
by
DaveOB
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General
Please advise me :
if using the smaller of the 2 Mosfet modules ( as in the OP ) what is the best way to connect Ramps to the Gate ? Do you ....
1. remove the Ramps on-board Mosfet and bridge the trace for the ( removed ) on-board Mosfet Gate to the Input / Gate of the Mosfet Module
or
2. leave the on-board Mosfet on the board and use the signal coming from the on-board Mosfet ( via teminal
by
DaveOB
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General
Been thinking about the current passing through the Ramps terminals for the bed heater, and heating problems some users have had with connectors, etc.
So got me thinking, why not move the bed mosfet from the Ramps board, and place it on a heatsink, and ( if I understand correctly that the Mosfet controls the Ground line to the printer ) connect the bed directly to the 12V+ PSU, and have the mosf
by
DaveOB
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RAMPS Electronics
I must say I have had PrintBite on my modified i3 for well over a year now and simply love this product.
Majority of my prints are ABS with the bed at 130C, first layer 260C ( with my thermistor ) and then 235C for the rest of the print,
and PETG bed at 90C, first layer 260C ( again, as per my thermistor ) and then remain at 260C for the print. Print speed averages 60 - 70 mm/s and layer adhesi
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DaveOB
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General
OK. Update
I have added a buck converter ( set at 4.9V ) from the psu to the LCD +5V line, and the Ground of the Buck to the Ground of the PSU output, so the grounds are common.
Powered on and there was no contrast dip after the splash screen, and the LCD is bright and clear.
Started a print ( so bed and nozzle heaters on ) and LCD has remained stable.
I know that at some point I should upgra
by
DaveOB
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
You could solder a better regulator like an lm7805 to the mega.
That I can do, but are the other parts and tracks of the Mega strong enough to power the LCD ?
Would it not be better to still ( also ) power the LCD from a seperate Buck Converter ?
by
DaveOB
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General
so this would indicate that the 5V regulator on the Mega is faulty ( weak / damaged ) and when the Mega is first powered, has enough current to power the large LCD.
But once the Marlin has initialised ( after the splash screen ), then the current available for the LCD is lower and causes it to dim ?
I guess the best option would then be to power the LCD from a seperate 5V supply ( like a Buck C
by
DaveOB
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General
Had a recent problem with the graphic LCD going dim when heaters are on ( bed or hotend )
Ramps 1.4 on Mega with Marlin.
Have tried reverting back to a version of marlin before I added an additional extruder - no change.
Now notice that the LCD appears to dim slightly just after the Marlin splash scren.
Also reverts back to full contrast when I press the reset button.
Suspected it may be code
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DaveOB
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General
Thanks for the advice.
I stripped the LCD unit out of the printer and checked everything thoroughly.
There is a small L-shaped PCB that connects the 2 cables to the Ramps board.
I found a small 'splash' droplet of solder right between the MISO and MOSI pins which I guess must have eventually made contact and scrambled the data going to the LCD.
Cleaned the PCB and been printing for 2 days wit
by
DaveOB
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RAMPS Electronics
Any ideas what could be causing this ? ( image attached )
Graphic LCD on Ramps & Mega 2560 with Marlin.
The SD card that is part of the LCD unit is still working as the print is still running.
Happens every few weeks. Sometimes hours in to a print, sometimes within minutes. No set pattern for timing.
Have changed cable from LCD to Ramps to metal shielded cable.
Is there a Marlin routine
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DaveOB
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RAMPS Electronics
I am wanting to change the position of the 1st and 2nd extruders on my graphic LCD screen ( 2 on the left, 1 on the right )
I have traced the source of the extruder image that appears on the LCD. The numbers are, best I can tell, part of the image.
What software can I use to edit the following bmp code so I can move or edit the image parts, etc.
I am using Windows.
Ideally somethng where I ca
by
DaveOB
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General
SOLVED
nothing wrong with the gCode, but needed to make changes to the config for Marlin.
I had assumed that I only needed to change :
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB
but also had to modify :
#define EXTRUDERS 2
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1
by
DaveOB
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General
I am adding a second extruder to my i3 variant ( Marlin on Mega and Ramps )
Before I wire in the extruder thermo, stepper and heater, I am wanting to test movement.
If I run the following gCode, the last line, which I would expect to move the second extruder nozzle ( T1 ) to X90 Y90 does not, but instead still moves T0 to that position.
Why ?
M107 ; fan off
G21
by
DaveOB
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General
If I may add a note about using Delrin wheels it may help someone in future.
I am using 'double V' delrin wheels on MakeSlides for my i3 printer.
The delrin wheels have a ridge in the center between the bearings, and the wheels kits are assembled with a washer / spacer between the bearings.
I noticed play on a few wheels and thought that the bearings were starting to fail.
Turned out that the
by
DaveOB
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
If you are not using the sensor for auto levelling and you are essentially using it as a z endstop, why not just use a regular z endstop?
Because depending on the type of part I am printing, I often swap between my e3dv6 ( 0.4 nozzle ) and my Volcano ( 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle ) hot ends. Sometimes up to 3 or 4 times a day.
Factors include quality required, time to print, etc.
The probl
by
DaveOB
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General
I considered a mechanical switch that the nozzle could push, but if there is any filament hanging below the nozzle from the previous print, then that would affect the function.
by
DaveOB
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General
Anybody tried this before ?
Running a modified Prusa i3 and I sometimes swop from my e3dv6 hotend ( 0.4mm nozzle ) to my Volcano hotend ( 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle )
Not wanting to keep adjusting the manual endstop on the Z axis each time I change, I thought about an inductive sensor.
However, the position of the nozzles, relative to the common mounting point for the hotends, is different, and could
by
DaveOB
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General
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