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Printing issues ...
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I had a similar problem. But even with well-tuned PID on the heatbed, the flexing was still too much. So, instead of clipping glass to the PCB, I sandwiched the PCB under an aluminium plate, which is bolted on with the same mounts as the PCB. This way, the print surface isn't tied to the PCB. So if it flexes, it doesn't mess with the print. This introduces problems, though... The aluminium is REA
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Montiey
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Printing
Try upping your Z jerk and acceleration in firmware. This will help make the layer change much faster, and reduce the scar.
by
Montiey
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Printing
You look like you need a layer fan. The hot air inside of the pockets made by the infill puffs up the warm layers if they aren't cooled quickly.
On the Orange Whistler (black plastic), there looks to be over-extrusion. try changing the set diameter down my 0.08mm.
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Montiey
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Printing
If the extrusion loops consistently to one direction, then it signals a partial jam. Try purging it at the highest safe temperature, or give the nozzle an acetone bath.
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Montiey
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Printing
Make sure the right thermistor is selected, in the right port, and if nothing surfaces be sure that the MINTEMP, MAXTEMP, and other temp related safety features aren't too strict, or enabled at all. Just be sure you get them working again.
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Montiey
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Printing
Does the board look like this?
If so, you should have an easy time checking your wiring as it is very common.
It's a RAMPS board, of which version, you will have to find out (if it matters much)
Before you do anything, unplug the motors, power supply, and try to upload new firmware to the controller without anything connected. If you can't seem to communicate with it, something is probably bro
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Montiey
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Printing
The most effective thing to do is to make the Z change faster. You can bump up your Z acceleration and jerk value, and you should also disable retracts on layer change, too.
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Montiey
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Printing
Can you attach the same exact GCODE file that causes the problem when printed? We would like to rule out the slicer as the error.
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Montiey
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Printing
Set your infill to 0 to see if it is actually the infill. If not, the. it's a mechanical problem because it should be happening in the others corners.
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Montiey
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Printing
Yep. USB probably can't power the whole RAMPS, including the LCD (if applicable), fans if they're on, etc.
Make sure that the RAMPS is running on the power supply before you do any flashing- you wouldn't want it to be interrupted.
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Montiey
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Printing
P.E.M.D.A.S, right?
Except in the UK they have B.I.M.D.A.S, but same thing.
Parenthesis / brackets
Exponents / indices
Multiplication
Division
Addition
Subtraction
Also, 0.1mm layers are a bit slow- for a 0.4mm nozzle I use 0.2 microns- 200 layers for the cube, so 2x faster.
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Montiey
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Printing
If its just in one corner, then probably leaking when changing layers. Maybe disable any retracts-upon-z-change?
Not letting the nozzle idle is key- you want a constant flow of plastic to make sure that no areas get too much, and as a result, that no areas get too little.
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Montiey
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Printing
That all really depends on slicer settings. If it happens in different spots per different model, then you don't have to worry about mechanical problems. Try using largly different I Infill percentages, and / or different layer heights. If changing lots of settings doesn't help, try a different slicer.
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Montiey
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Printing
Probably not. Maybe something related to your overhang quality.
by
Montiey
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Printing
Check your filament diameter, and maybe calibrate your esteps.
Also try changing temperatures. Sometimes different hotends need slightly different temps.
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Montiey
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Printing
Logical answers all point to under extrusion. Can you send a G1 F1200 E100 to the printer and see if 100mm (E100) of filament is actually extruded? If not you should calibrate you esteps for the extruder, and while you are at it all the other axis.
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Montiey
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Printing
Also try formatting (both) cards using different filesystems. FAT seems to be a bit of a standard, but some basic SD readers may not be able to read something more proprietary like Mac OS (Extended, Journaled, or both). See if you can get a info sheet on the SD panel and see if it lists compatibility info.
What size was the card you tried? Some larger cards may not be recognized either. Try some
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Montiey
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Printing
Something is definitely loose. Alternatively, does the printer just seem to be too aggressive? What are your accel and jerk values in firmware?
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Montiey
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Printing
Try hotter temps. Looks like periodical under extrusion to me. Try changing any and all of your settings to see if something may be slightly off. Sometimes you don't even know you have something set wrong when you can get a problem to go away by changing other settings.
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Montiey
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Printing
What layer height?
Also maybe check the nozzle diameter and the one you have set.
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Montiey
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Printing
Maybe the MINTEMP is set too low in your firmware.
The rest of the thermal settings will also cause problems. Nebbian mentioned a fan that may be pointing at the bed.. There is a value for the maximum deviation from the set temp called hysteresis or something like that. To the best of my knowledge, it determines when the bed does not respond to more/less heating power correctly, indicating a loo
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Montiey
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Printing
190 is a bit low for a hotend temperature. I have found good bonding and minimal ooze at 212. Some people go down to 180.. I have no idea how the plastic sticks to itself at all when it is that cold.
For the firmware...
I tell everyone here that needs to change their firmware settings that, unless you have the original Arduino files on hand, you will need to configure a brand new firmware file s
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Montiey
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Printing
Do you get any error messages in the serial monitor / terminal? If not, then like Digital said there is probably an electrical problem. Swap everything and anything to see if there is any pattern to the problem. Does the extruder turn by hand? There may also be a blockage or jam.
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Montiey
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Printing
Do you get any error messages in the serial monitor / terminal? If not, then like Digital said there is probably an electrical problem. Swap everything and anything to see if there is any pattern to the problem. Does the extruder turn by hand? There may also be a blockage or jam.
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Montiey
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Printing
The Z axis should't be coupled at the top.. This means that there will be pressure on the X gantry. If it was left open, the motor and gantry would be free floating, as the movement would be left to the top.
Still, Z wobble simply couldn't cause ribbing of this magnitude. Have you tried another batch of PLA? As a second thought.. Are the x gantries leadscrew couplers loosen the leadscrew? Do the
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Montiey
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Printing
You should print and install a fan shroud (for the inlet) that will keep blunt objects from contacting the blades.
This is a shroud that (I think) is for a fan that blows outward, and PULLS air across the fins. I guess in that case you would want to keep the airflow away from the print. I thought of this because it would keep stuff from hitting the fan. Also, how is the heatsink fan positioned? C
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Montiey
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Printing
Un problème a probablement eu lieu tout en utilisant les nouveaux paramètres qui ont été fixés dans le firmware Marlin que vous avez téléchargé . Avez-vous téléchargé le même firmware dans le passé ? Ou , est-ce tout récent de l'Internet ? Si elle est flambant neuf , vous devez suivre les étapes pour configurer Marlin nouveau. Ce n'est pas difficile , et il est gratifiant une fois terminé .
Quan
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Montiey
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Printing
The video offers a lot of clues. That last circular object looks like it was over-extruded, and your retract distances may be a little too high, or too slow. Try fixing the extrusion before changing the retracts, though.
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Montiey
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Printing
Cura has some options to set the speeds for things like perimeters and infill, but you may just want to change the acceleration and jerk values in the printers firmware.
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Montiey
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Printing
The solid infill / solid top infill / top infill extrusion widths may be too low. If the rest of this part looks fine, these may need to be tweaked.
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Montiey
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Printing
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