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Printing issues ...
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Custom home position for laser cutting - 7 years ago
I recently began a laser build using smoothie-ware and fusion 360 but I've hit a bit of a snag. I want to be able to start cutting anywhere in the build area but when I start the g code from fusion the machine will home against the end stops and begin working relative to the stock point set in fusion. If I had a odd shaped piece of material I need to set the program to begin at a certain point thby mrmuffin - Smoothie
Re: Re purposing the Laser function - 7 years ago
SOLVED Since I was using Fusion 360 to generate G-code I found out that I could change the laser power in the post processor. Instead of generating G1S1 I can change it to create G1S255. From there A switch set to read PWM will be able to activate my SSR when the "laser" begins to cut. That being said I am still not sure why the laser module wasn't working properly.by mrmuffin - Smoothie
Re: MKS SBASE V1.3 re-purposing - 7 years ago
SOLVED Since I was using Fusion 360 to generate G-code I found out that I could change the laser power in the post processor. Instead of generating G1S1 I can change it to create G1S255. From there A switch set to read PWM will be able to activate my SSR when the "laser" begins to cut. That being said I am still not sure why the laser module wasn't working properly.by mrmuffin - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Re purposing the Laser function - 7 years ago
After some tinkering it seems that the board does not respond to any laser commands I give it. The G1,2,3 and fire commands do not send a pwm signal and the ttl pin does not activate. Is this unusual or should I just buy a real Smoothieboard?by mrmuffin - Smoothie
Re: MKS SBASE V1.3 re-purposing - 7 years ago
From what I can tell now I don't seem to be getting a response from any of the laser commands such as G1,2,3 or fire. The ttl pin does not activate either. Is this unusual for this board or should I just buy a Smoothieboard?by mrmuffin - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re purposing the Laser function - 7 years ago
I recently got a Smoothieboard clone in the hopes of making a water jet cutter. I planned on using the laser functionality of smoothieware and simply changing the cutting element. However I did not realize that the laser uses a PWM signal to raise and lower the laser power rather than just turning on and off. In the G-CODE the laser power is set using the S parameter from 0 to 1 and is sent to thby mrmuffin - Smoothie
MKS SBASE V1.3 re-purposing - 7 years ago
I recently bought an MKS SBASE V1.3 from amazon as it was a cheaper alternative to the smoothie board. I got it with the intention of making a water jet cutter and thought that I could use the laser functionality to run it. I am using Fusion 360 and the smoothieware post-processor to generate gcode and following the configuration instructions from the smoothieware site. What I need to do is activby mrmuffin - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: E3D V6 Temperature drop mid print - 8 years ago
I'm sure it's not a thermistor problem. I have had thermistor problems previously and I know the symptoms. I know it's not simply a temperature read error because as the temperature drops the filament begins to jam. I did some testing and found that the maximum my hot end can handle is 30mm/s pla at around 220C. Even when I increased the temperature mid print, it could not push above 220. I thinkby mrmuffin - General
Re: E3D V6 Temperature drop mid print - 8 years ago
Quotenebbian Hmm that's odd. Is the max PWM value in firmware set to something other than full power? Edit: EXT0_PID_MAX in repetier, should be 255. PID_MAX (or BANG_MAX, one is defined by the other) in Marlin, should be 255. Both of the PID and bang bang values are sitting at 255. If it was a typo like 25 the heater would never reach full temp.by mrmuffin - General
Re: E3d Volcano Heating Issues - 8 years ago
Running auto tune and applying the new settings are two separate things. After the auto tune finishes it will output the values for the Kp Ki and Kd. The next step is to apply these changes in the firmware. You can manually do it by opening the marlin file, changing the numbers, and then sending the code to the printer. Or if you have eeprom enabled you can run auto tune and then enter g500 to saby mrmuffin - Printing
Re: E3D V6 Temperature drop mid print - 8 years ago
Quoteo_lampe I've printed PETG with the regular thermistor. Is the new probe far from the original probe or does it get fresh air? Can you print something with PLA and see if that works? The new probe is glued into a M3 nut which is then screwed into the heater block. I am sure that the thermistor is reading properly in it's current position. I also tried printing PLA and got the same results. Tby mrmuffin - General
Re: E3D V6 Temperature drop mid print - 8 years ago
Quotenebbian The biggest problem here is the Kd, it's way too high. Drop your Kd to 20, double your Kp, and see what happens. I've found autotune of hotends to be pretty useless without manual tuning afterwards. I changed the Kp to 20 and the Kd to 20 yet the problem still persists. How did you know which values to change and how much?by mrmuffin - General
E3D V6 Temperature drop mid print - 8 years ago
Recently I have been trying to print with petg instead of the usual pla. I changed out my thermistor to a screw in version and updated marlin accordingly. I ran several PID auto tunes with the part fan running full speed and got about Kp:11 Ki:.4 Kd:66. I ran the new settings as a test and doubled my Ki after the hot end would sit just below the target. Finally I began a print only to be met withby mrmuffin - General
Ramps and the new V6 PT100 - 9 years ago
As someone who has been frustrated one too many times struggling to put the tiny little thermistor into it's tiny little hole only to have it's leg snap off soon after, I began to look for something better. E3D being as innovative as they are released an upgrade kit for the V6. This kit replaces the old heater block with a new one capable of fitting a PT100 thermal sensor instead of a thermistor.by mrmuffin - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Printer Stops Randomly(RAMPS1.4) - 9 years ago
If anything I would figure that my printer is under extruding. I have calibrated my extruder and my z height so that my nozzle is about one paper thickness from the bed. Whenever I print I usually find that my top and bottom infill aren't as smooth as I would like. On the top of parts the surface isn't flat and smooth. It's stringy and rarely covers the surface evenly as if enough plastic isn't cby mrmuffin - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Printer Stops Randomly(RAMPS1.4) - 9 years ago
I found out that my power supply only puts out about 6A not 20. I took off a fan I used to cool the ramps board and turned down the power on the extruder stepper. This fixed about 70% of my problem but the prints still got a little wonky at the same point. The print head dips into the print and the hot end begins to jam. It powered through but only just. I can post some pictures if you need a betby mrmuffin - RAMPS Electronics
Printer Stops Randomly(RAMPS1.4) - 9 years ago
Recently I have been designing a robot, just for fun, and I've been having some issues when printing my models. Every now and again I print out the model to see the changes I've made but I haven't been able to do so recently. After about one and a half to two hours my printer just shuts off. It's fairly consistent with it's shut offs, they all happen at about the same time and place. When it stopby mrmuffin - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago
Sorry I already solved this same problem in another thread.by mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Mystery Jam - 9 years ago
SOLVED! The follower on my extruder broke and was not providing any pressure on the hobbled bolt. The mount for the bearing broke off from the extruder mount.by mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago
I hope it is, i'm out of ideas by now. I tried putting the spool on a film canister and then onto a screw to keep it in place. I made u an arrrrrrt. The inside hole on the spool sits on the lip of the film canister. The whole canister then spins on the screw. Before I just had the spool sitting on top of the printer on a piece of plastic. I'm going to switch back and see how things go.by mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Mystery Jam - 9 years ago
Do you guys think that an extrusion width of .67 is too high for a .4 nozzle? I have bumped it down to .48 in the advanced Slic3r settings and it seems to be doing better. At the same time though the perimeters don't quite meet the infill.by mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago
No not really. I think the real problem here is that my heater just can't keep up the temperature. While keeping airflow off of the nozzle surely helped it's not the whole story. I recently tried some trouble shooting and the only solution I've come up with is to use a higher temperature. Maybe my thermistor is a bit off. I have the printer set to 235 degrees, where it seems to work, but it doesnby mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Mystery Jam - 9 years ago
I just stopped a benchy halfway to show you guys what's happening. Here is how it printed before I began having problems Here is how the prints come out now. Notice that you can see straight through the print at 15% infill. I admit the printer underextrudes a little bit but the jamming is still there none the less.by mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Mystery Jam - 9 years ago
Even after it's been through the extruder the filament moves through the aluminum heat tube just fine. Pushing it by hand without the tube attached was a little tough but I don't think the heat break has anything to do with it physically. When I use the lcd controller to move the filament it's fairly smooth but still gets a little stuck. I've applied canola oil to the start of the filament beforeby mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Mystery Jam - 9 years ago
I bought this V6. After messing around with it I can only extrude about 35-40 mm of filament before the extruder jams. I can push it through with my hand but it's not easy nor a long term solution. It always seems to get stuck in the lower part of the heat break, where it meets the heater block. I am wondering if something might be getting in between the ends of the heat break cylinder and the noby mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Mystery Jam - 9 years ago
The extruder gear keeps turning but the filament won't budge it pushes a little then slips back along the gear. I tried to push it manually but even then it was still not moving. I have the stepper potentiometer set fairly high and I have a fan that keeps the ramps board cool. I am currently using the marlin firmware. I have checked and the nozzle is the correct size for the settings I have on Sby mrmuffin - Printing
Mystery Jam - 9 years ago
Ever since the beginning of this week I have had nothing but failure from my printer. My printer no longer makes 3d objects, it only makes frustration now. After cleaning out the nozzle calibrating e-steps changing out the fan and messing with slicer for days I'm still right where I started. After about a half hour all of my prints begin to jam for no reason. The heat break is cold where it shouby mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago
I changed out the fan duct so that it didn't point at the nozzle and I cleaned out the nozzle with some high heat. I think cooling the nozzle put a clog in it and caused the poor performance.by mrmuffin - Printing
Re: Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago
I printed and fitted this onto my hot end.by mrmuffin - Printing
Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago
I was working on a school project and things seemed to be going fine. The surface quality was good no skipping, over or under extrusion. However as my printer reached the top of the model the extruder started to skip. This wasn't too bad as it was only about a half inch from the end of the print. However every print afterwards was complete trash. It's as if the skipping began at the end of the fiby mrmuffin - Printing
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