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Printing issues ...
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Hello.
I have reached a frustrating part of 3D printing this afternoon, and I think I need your help identifying the issue...
I am printing this retraction part from thingiverse:
Here is two pictures of two prints:
The first image is of a print where retraction is entirely disabled, and the other image is of a print where retraction is set to 0.1mm at speed 30 mm/s. No other settings wer
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nikko4913
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Printing
Hello.
I just purchased the E3D Titan extruder to be used on my new CoreXY printer. I bought it because of the versatile mounting options, and because it can be used easily with both the V6 and a bowden-style setup... or so I thought. I've followed the exact assembly instructions on the E3D website, however, whenever I try to extrude (even with the idler pressure on the lowest possible setting),
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nikko4913
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Printing
Okay, so I figured it out. reading this thread: .
This is my finished config.g file, if anyone is interested in how I set up the firmware (With nonapplicable parts removed):
M574 X1 Y2 S1 ; set endstop configuration (X and Y endstops only, at low end, active high)
M574 E0 S0
M558 P4 X0 Y0 Z1 H3 F200 T5000 ; Smart IR Z probe, used for homing Z axis, dive height 3mm, probe speed 200mm/min
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nikko4913
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General
I have already followed Thomas Sanladerers video on youtube, up until the firmware configuration point.
I have connected the brown wire directly to 12vdc on my PSU, the black wire through a 15k Ohm resistor to the signal pin on the Duet's E0 endstop, and finally I've wired the blue wire to GND on the E0 endstop, but with a 10k resistor between the blue wire, and the signal pin. This diagram des
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nikko4913
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General
Hey.
So, I still haven't found out what to do. Seems like a lot of people have seen this post, but no one has replied... Should I specify anything?
I already have optical endstop for my X- and Y-axis, and I want to use the Z probe to home the Z-axis on the bed, but also to do Auto Bed Levelling... This is possible with an inductive sensor like the one I have, right?
Thank you, and please just
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nikko4913
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General
Hello.
I'm almost done commissioning my new 3D printer. I just need to setup the Z-probe, which turns out to be a little more complicated than I anticipated. The sensor I have bought for the purpose is a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX. This is the datasheet I have for the sensor:
I have also tried reading the section about the NPN sensor on this page: , but I still do not quite understand what to connect to wh
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nikko4913
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General
Thank you! Just tried that, and i worked
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nikko4913
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Duet
Hi!
Does anyone have experience with the feature to turn your PSU on/off? I'd really like to use it on my own setup, but i just can't find much information on it...
I bought a SSR relay for the purpose, as my PSU doesn't have the 'Optional' part like on the PSU in this picture: . I can't find any information on how to use those onboard pins to trigger the SSR relay, so i was hoping you guys may
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nikko4913
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Duet
Okay, good thing i contacted Think3DPrint3D then. Thank you all for your input
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nikko4913
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General
bobc:
That sounds plausible actually. Thank you very much
stephenrc:
I'm aware of that, and i've also made triple sure that those were connected correctly, before plugging power in.
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nikko4913
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General
Hello.
I’m writing to this forum because my newly bought Duet v0.8.5 board, doesn’t work. Yesterday, i had i working initially, and i managed to get to the web interface. Today, when i wanted to start wiring things up to my functional 3D printer, it suddenly stopped responding. This is what happened:
1. I install a new firmware on it, making sure everything works with the web interface and only
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nikko4913
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General
I also have these three motors to use instead:
The thing is, it would be quite a pain to get that 24V supply instead of 12V. I'd prefer to wire the three motors in parallel, and run them with a single driver on the Duet board.
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nikko4913
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General
Okay, but the Duet doesn't feature 3 different drivers to only Z axis motors. I see there's an expansion board, but would that work? Any experiences?
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nikko4913
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General
Hello.
I'm building a little RepRap designed by myself. I plan to use the Duet v0.8.5 as the controllerboard, and then connect 3 Z axis motors to it. I know people run with two motors on the same driver, but would it be possible to connect a third? Would the A4982 be able to withstand that? This is the Stepper motors i've got: It's the 804 kind.
If one of you could answer that for me, i'd be g
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nikko4913
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General
Hello.
I'm designing my own 3D printer, and for that i would need some 600mm long rods to carry X/Y carriages on. I've already tried assembling it with 8x600mm normal steel rods, however, those proved to be too bendable. I need some stronger rods, but the problem is that they are so very expensive. I know the very best would be proper chromed and hardened steel rods, and especially when working
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nikko4913
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Reprappers
Maybe the drivers was from a poorly manufactured batch, I don't know. That would be an easy solution though, so if anybody else has any specific fix to this, I think I'm gonna order a new batch and see how that plays out.
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nikko4913
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General
Perhaps you are right about the Duet. But then I would have to pay for a fancy web interface, and a lot of stuff I really don't need. I'll reconsider the Duet, but I'm still open for suggestions
About the other boards, I completely agree about what you said. Such companies shouldn't brand products as open source.
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nikko4913
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General
Okay, for the record my printers is Cartesian.
But choosing the X5 over the X3 would limit me to one extruder right? As far as i can see, it only has 4 drivers, X, Y, two Z and Extruder
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nikko4913
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General
Regarding the DRV8825 drivers, no, they do not get hot at all. As mentioned, i found this rather odd, as they usually do that.
I'm also looking for a replacement board for the RAMPS, because of som the reasons you point out there. But again, i know the potentiometer was adjusted correctly, because the printer had been running perfectly for more than 4 months with this setting, and not hot drivers
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nikko4913
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General
Yep, that's why the Duet may not be the optimal solution.
Regarding the Azteeg, i was thinking of either one of these two:
I'm thinking it should be Azteeg X3 instead of Azteeg X5, as it has more driver slots?
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nikko4913
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General
What's weird is that i didn't move anything, so why would it start acting up now?
Plus, i already checked for loose connections and inspecting the wiring, no result.
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nikko4913
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General
For me, the Duet v0.8.5 seems a bit overkill (And rather expensive..). I would just connect my printer to OctoPi for a web interface. The same goes for the Smoothieboard 5XC.
The Azteeg X5 looks more like what i would like. However, i can only have five steppers with that one right?
I then took a look at the Azteeg X5, as it seemed to have everything i need. Do you have any experience with that b
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nikko4913
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General
Hello fellow reprappers.
I have been using the RAMPS controller board for my Prusa Mendel, for quite some time. Up until this week, I didn't have any problems with my drivers and everything worked as intended. Now, however, I've run into some problems I simply can't figure out.
I started a print the other day, and it started nicely, but after 10 minutes or so, the extruder stopped. My first tho
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nikko4913
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General
Hello.
Up until this point in time, i've been using RAMPS boards for my two RepRap printers. However, the RAMPS board seems pretty outdated and "unhandy".
Therefore i'm looking for a replacement and i would like to get some opinions on what to choose.
I have some requirements for the board:
- Should have the opportunity for two extruders (Ability to add more is much appreciated!)
- One X-axis
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nikko4913
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General
Okay, so it turns out that one of my friends know a guy who can supply me with 3 metres of 8mm stainless steel rods for just under $15. It's not chromed, but for the price i'll just try 'em out, and if it's completely off. Otherwise i might try another diameter.
Thanks for all the input
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nikko4913
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General
Okay. So, what should i look for when buying? Which grade? How do i know if the rods i can find on ebay is straight enough for it?
Here's some of the rods i've looked for. Would the ebay option be good enough?
www.ebay.co.uk
www.zappautomation.co.uk
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nikko4913
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General
The thing is that i already have a lot of linear bearings, so I don't really have to spend anything on those. However, normal steel rods are much easier to find for cheaper money, so would it pay off to buy standard rods and some of those bushings that fx. Ultimaker 2 uses? Like sort of small brass tubes?
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nikko4913
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General
Hello.
I'm in the process of building my second 3D Printer. I've run into some difficulties though. The printer i'm building is a custom designed-from-scratch printer of my own creation. The problem is that i need some 8x650mm hardened steel rods for my LM8UU bearings to slide on.
I read somewhere that the very best option is chromed and hardened steel rods, but if it's not necessary i'd like to
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nikko4913
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General
Hello.
I was wondering if you were able to use two extruders, and still have 3 steppers working as Z axes? I saw something about splicing motorcables, however this was on an older version of RAMPS. Does my stepper driver burn if i make it run 3 motors?
I'd like to get some professional thoughts on this
Thanks.
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nikko4913
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General
Okay, so i just completely tore the hot end apart. It turns out that inside the the nozzle throat there is a small teflon tube. And when printing the filament would get retracted and would pull the teflon tube up, and partially out of the throat, creating quite a large area, in the buttom throat, that would have way more friction than with teflon. Combined with mixing temps, speeds of filament in
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nikko4913
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Printing
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