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Printing issues ...
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Yes previous threads were 2016 when e3d and one or two others made hotends that worked and everyone else sold "e3d v6s" and "j head hot ends" which were all broadly e3d v5 hotends as they are easy to machine/cast in chinesium for about $5 which could work if you re-engineered them a bit and polished the roughly drilled heartbreaks internally.
Now some of these cloners have made quality hot end p
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DjDemonD
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General
Worth bearing in mind John, but maybe simple transistor circuit to just raise the 3.3v to 5v? Or a boost converter?
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DjDemonD
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General
Okay, so a little update.
I checked my marlin settings and in the EEPROM, there was an imbalance between the max feed rates and accelerations for X/Y, and Z. Now, this shouldn't make a difference as the firmware should, when set to delta mode, use these to control effector kinematics and not carriage kinematics. As each axis does not operate as it does in a cartesian printer. But setting them al
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DjDemonD
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Delta Machines
Okay, so this is an old thread but I enjoyed it last time, so here goes.
Having not really had any issues with vertical lines in prints using my micro-sized delta, which previously ran on really old, but perfectly functional Rich Cattell's marlin from 4-5 years ago, I switched to Marlin 2 bugfix, to modernise things up. Its running on a mega2560 and ramps1.4, with LV8729 drivers at 1/32 microste
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DjDemonD
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Delta Machines
Quoteloddie
QuoteDjDemonD
...use an rcd or rcbo type device on the mains supply to trip power in case a wire or the heat bed shorts to anything.
I'll be using a GCFI outlet to plug the printer into. Is a GFCI outlet functionally equivalent to an RCD/RCBO?
Yes it is equivalent.
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DjDemonD
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General
I have not done much with any of this stuff for a while but yes leave the jumper on H this tells the relay you are using 9v or thereabout not some lower voltage for the trigger. I believe set to L you can trigger the coil to close (using the 9v dc supply) but with a very tiny trigger signal I only used 9v as that's what the smoke board needed. I would have gone with a 5v or 12v smoke detector and
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DjDemonD
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Hi Haydn,
Thanks, truthfully I haven't even switched on a 3d printer for over a year. Am considering doing so soon though.
Hope you are well.
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DjDemonD
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Delta Machines
Seriously just use whatever Chinese belts that ebay has. It will make no difference. I paid £10/m for gates 2gt belts they looked nice but didn't improve my kossel Xl at all. TBF it was pretty good to begin with.
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DjDemonD
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General
One solution depending on your controller might be to use a controllable fan output for hotend fan and then you can turn the fan off during probing. If you are probing cold or at an intermediate temperature such as 130 deg the heat creep (depending on your hotend) should be little or no problem.
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DjDemonD
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General
Just wanted to say this machine is now dismantled. It worked but not that well compared to many of the cheap, readily available and generally quite good printers out there. I'd like to build a leadscrew delta with a regular frame, as they were neither slow, nor inaccurate - how long they would have lasted given their much greater duty cycle compared to when used for a typical cartesian or corexy
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DjDemonD
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Delta Machines
Thanks for the offer but I've more or less given up 3D printing now to go travelling. Will keep an eye on the forums though.
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DjDemonD
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Just to say the corexy has now been dismantled and the parts are available separately:
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DjDemonD
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For Sale
Okay so I'm going travelling and won't be doing any 3D printing for a while, there's not much point in storing these machines as they might be fairly out of date by the time I get back.
I've listed them on ebay so here are the links:
Both Duetwifi powered, the kossel XL has a lot of decent parts on it.
Working capable, machines but a great source of parts as well if you were looking to build
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DjDemonD
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For Sale
If it will manually calibrate then it should auto calibrate with a working sensor.
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DjDemonD
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General
No the only real change relevant is that you can drop X0 Y0 Z0 from M558 and change G31 P to 100
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DjDemonD
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General
Could be or the pot has worn out they can usually only do about 20 turns. In which case then Idris will replace it. But please just try manually probing.
Your m665 m666 seems sensible enough based on your stated machine size.
Try M558 P0 with no other parameters.
Do G28,
G1 X0 Y0 Z20 (assuming your z height in m665 is fairly close)
G30
G32
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DjDemonD
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General
He said he'd taken that out didn't he? CWAA if you can just confirm your H300 is now H50 or H20 or something sensible?
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DjDemonD
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General
Okay so turn the potentiometer until the red led just comes on. Now tap it and check it triggers with a light tap. Just a static test.
Please let me know how you get on running M558 P0? Probe manually.
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DjDemonD
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General
CWAA - herea a good diagnostic approach change your probe type to P0 in M558. This means manual probing, then try G28, G30, G32 and see what happens. If it's still all over the place it's not the probe or probe code as it's not running any.
Supraguy, you can get 3.3v off the duet. Not sure why the raspi is needed in the system?
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DjDemonD
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General
Please post your delta parameter m665 m666
And make sure you delete any config-override file for now just change m665 and m666 in config.g then reboot until you are sure you're getting close. What I think is happening is your delta a parameters are not correct so it's moving wrong.
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DjDemonD
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General
Can you do g28 and it home normally?
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DjDemonD
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General
Trust me and I can't say this in any way more clearly delete the deploy and stow files. YOU DO NOT NEED THEM. I've said this, Idris has said it and Dc42 who wrote RRF and designed the duet has said this. Orion is not a deployable probe in marlin speak its a fixed mounted probe. Deployable probes are microswitch es on servos or bltouch etc..
Assuming it's a delta right?
Delete the deploy files
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DjDemonD
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General
If you mean ramps 1.4 all you need to do is get the drivers the right way around, check carefully if they're the wrong way and you power it up it will fry your ramps and arduino and probably the lv driver too. Make sure power and USB power is disconnected when inserting or removing drivers.
Get the jumpers under the drivers right for the microstepping you want. Less danger here as there is no j
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DjDemonD
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Repetier even supports the pause before probing feature that is available across all major firmware now, which helps to achieve better results on setups where mechanical noise needs a few 1/10ths of a second to abate.
Just set it up as a normally closed (or active low) endstop, usually with pullup disabled (but if you're having any issue trying with pullup enabled can sometimes help).
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DjDemonD
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General
Agreed you have to be offering something (or at least hyping something up on kickstarter) that other machines don't have if you are going to get people's money. I am trying to sell two high quality custom made machines and struggling to get a decent price for them, for the same reason. Only the enthusiast (who probably wants to build their own anyway) will know what they're worth. Everyone else s
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DjDemonD
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General
I'd agree that its maybe a bit ambitious, but don't be mean, he/she can do it, if they are willing to learn, develop, innovate, understand the implications of making a product, selling it, getting it delivered, supporting it and ensuring it is safe and complies with whatever regulations are in force. You must accept that selling things, and making one for your buddy, are not the same thing. I've
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DjDemonD
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General
Its a shame its taken a bit of effort to get it working. I admit to having pulled a hair or two out, every now and again, but most of my hair I lost using arduino-ramps and Marlin 3 years ago. Duet does require a fair bit of knowledge to begin with, its not a board I'd recommend to beginners, unless they were willing to take their time, gain knowledge and then figure it out. Sure the documentatio
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DjDemonD
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General
I use a part fan with ABS, just at a much-reduced airflow (except bridges/overhangs) than with PLA/PETG. But yes surface area is smaller with thicker extrusion and it cools much more slowly. Perhaps I didn't notice it much as I rarely print small parts with big nozzles only large parts where there is time to cool a layer before the next layer begins.
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DjDemonD
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I'd steer clear especially with large nozzles of trying to use the "75% of nozzle width" guidelines, and go for setting the thickest layer height to 50% of nozzle width so 0.4mm for 0.8mm nozzle. More temperature helps to extrude faster and improve interlayer bonding.
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DjDemonD
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General
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