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Printing issues ...
Random/eratic axis movement/homing during print...FIXED - 8 years ago
Hello, I have been having a problem for the past several months to where, during a print, the printer would pause and either the X or Y axis would move to an end position and then resume printing again. Usually it would return to where it started, so no big deal. But sometimes it would not return to the correct spot and the print would be ruined. More recently, the extruder started behaving likeby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: Printer behaving erratically during print from SD - 8 years ago
I know this has been a few months, but I am having the exact same issues. It was suggested that I replace the SD card. I did, and it still does it. I don't have a raspberry pi, and I'm not familiar with octoprint. Did you ever find another solution? My printer is a FolgerTech prusa i3.by koenejet - Firmware - Marlin
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
Just an update. Someone else had the same problem as me, he fixed it by wrapping ceramic heat insulation around the hot end with kapton tape. I did the same, and it has been printing fine now for just over three hours. Hopefully this will hold up on longer prints as well. So I believe It's all fixed. Keep your fingers crossed. Thinks again for all the suggestions.by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
Well it's funny you should mention that. I have also been posting my problems on Thingiverse. Someone else has my same problem. The designer of the toranado replied back to us and wants us to remove that lower shroud and see if that helps. Apperantly, he thought that could be an issue, but his worked fine. So if removing the shroud works, then maybe he will design a new one.?by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
I did assemble the v6 as mentioned. Retraction is set to 1. And the fan is on the blue plastic shroud that clips onto the cold end fins. And it does have the plastic tubing inside. It's mounted in the Toronto geared extruder I printed from Thingiverse, so the entire v6 is covered by the print fan shroud. I have the fan blowing cool ambient air onto the cold end. I was afraid if I had the fan pulby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
So, almost two hours into the print, and it jammed again. This time the cold end felt almost as hot as the bed. About 55 degrees give or take. Much warmer than when it failed at one hour. It also looked like my fix on the plastic bearing holder wasn't good enough. The bearing did move a little bit. Not as much as it did before. It looked like it was just at the point to where the drive gear wouby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
Ok, I may have found the problem. On the toranado extruder, there is a printed part that holds one of the drive shaft bearings. This part is real close to the motor. The heat from the motor was softening that part, allowing the bearing to move a bit, which takes the tension off of the filiment. I wrapped that printed part with carbon tow and epoxy, wedged a Teflon shim between the part and the mby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
Also, I find it odd that everywhere I read, people complain about the 30mm fans being really loud. Well the three that I have tried so far, are not. Even the one I got from e3d online. I'm not complaining that they are not noisy, but it makes me wonder if my three fans are not putting out enough. The cold end isn't that warm, as I said previously, so it's probably not an issue. Just odd.by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
I just took it apart to remove the jammed piece. I did tighten the idler, and I'm trying the print again. Will let you know how it turns out. i did notice though, that on the piece of filiment I removed, there was a thin wide ring around it. This could have been from a small gap between the bottom of the plastic tube and where it is supposed to sit inside of the cold end?. But that is pretty higby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
I did assemble it it with heat sink compound between the threads and the heat sink. The heatbreak is visible. When it jams, the motor keeps turning, slipping on the filiment. Sometimes I can manually push the filiment through, but it's very difficult to do so. However this last time, it is so stuck, I cannot pull it out or push it through. It's loose. I can move it up and down a little, but cannby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
So I got the new fan from e3d online. I ran it on a 12v power supply for about five hours before I installed it. It feels like it blows a bit more air than the other two fans I tried. But it jammed after a little over an hour. I pulled the fan off, and the cold end felt a little warmer than room temp. It was not as warm as it was with the other fans. It just seems odd that it would jam like thaby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: First Printer problems! - 8 years ago
I had the exact same problem. I was told to adjust the tension on the extruder drive roller. Mine was not adjustable. I noticed the pattern was in sink with a growling noise from the motor. I turned the current down, and it went away. Since this didn't work for you, can you change the roller tension on yours?by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
I did just think about the voltage earlier today. You would think that would have been the first thing I would have checked. Any way, I do have 11.97v to the fan. That should be close enough I would think.by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I bought one of these about 2 years ago and it has been holding up fine. It is thicker, heavier, and makes a bit of noise, but it is very well made, compared to the POS that came with the extruder: Well I got one of these and just tried it out. It printed perfectly for 1 hr 23 min. Then it jammed. I keep forgetting to get the digital thermometer from work, but when itby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: Hictop Aluminum and E3D - 8 years ago
One more thing. And this is just my opinion. If anyone disagrees, please speak up, because I may be missing something. From what I can tell, that amplifier is used so that you can use a more accurate thermocouple, that can't be directly connected to the RAMPS board. My cheap $300 prusa works perfectly fine with the standard/stock thermistor that came with it. So why would I go th the trouble ofby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: Hictop Aluminum and E3D - 8 years ago
You're not over your head. Several times I thought I was, but as soon as you start digging into and using forums and YouTube, you can get anything to work. As far as e3d, all of the manuals, documents, and instructions are on their website. It's hard to find, but I think it's on a page called 'documents'. There is even a schematic of the amplifier for people who want to build it from scratch. Iby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: Getting started in Canada - 8 years ago
This is all just my opinion, I'm sure someone may disagree. But here is my two cents worth. For just starting out, I would (and did), buy a kit. Once you build a kit, you realize just how simple the mechanics are, and then if you ever wanted to design and build your own to meet your needs, then you could a little easier. The kit I got was from FolgerTech. I had issues building it, but more thanby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 Poor print quality(lines in print) - 8 years ago
Looks like it may be over extruding. I had similar issues when I first set up my printer. It may help to print a simple test cube, one wall and hollow, and see what that looks like. For me, I had to change the default extrusion width in repetier host to .4mm, and set the extrusion multiplier to .97. The print looked better, but the walls of the cube had a wavy pattern on them. That problem wasby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
Actually, those I just mentioned are 5v motors, so you would have to drop the voltage a bit. So I'll probably go with the one the digital dentist suggested.by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
I also saw some on Amazon for rc car speed controller cooling. One is called a tornado from yea-racing. They are about $7-$8 each, and apparently very loud, but that may be the next one I try.by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
To answer ggherbaz and the digital dentist: I'm printing perimeters at 50mm/s, infill at 60mm/s Printing with PLA at 185*C Retraction is set to 1mm at 20mm/s I only ordered the metal parts from e3d online, because I already had the tubing, fan, thermocouple, and heater. They did send the little plastic insert though to lock in the tube, and I am using that. I think the fan is a cheap China madby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
The fan does seem a little bit slow. I had this already from something else, so I only ordered the metal parts from e3d. I did order a new fan from e3d though just to try that and see if it helps. And yes, the fan runs all the time. There is the gap between the hot end and cold end as you said. I will have to borrow a temp sensor from work to check the temp as you said to do. That is a good ideby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
So I took it apart (a little bit),and tried it again. This time I watched it very carefully. The extruder never reversed directions, so that's not a problem anymore. At exactly 10 minutes into the print, it stopped extruding. I pulled the filament out, and here is what it looked like. and the entire measured end was soft and 'meltyish'. The section that is 2mm in dia is in the area of the plastiby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: random motor movement / extruder help - 8 years ago
So I replaced the SD card. I didn't notice anymore random movements, but the extruder still jams. I started a new post because I don't think my original post is the issue now. The new post is just about e3d v6 jamming. Somehow melted plastic is oozing up into the cold end jamming it up. And I have no idea how this could happen or how to fix it.by koenejet - Reprappers
e3d v6 help - 8 years ago
I posted an issue a few days ago about random motor movements, and how I thought that was causing my extruder to jam. I replaced the SD card as someone suggested, and I didn't notice anymore random movements, but there is still a problem. I am using an e3d v6 (not a clone), and it appears that melted plastic is oozing up into the cold end jamming the extruder. When I first started the e3d, I pby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: Linear bearing upgrade - 8 years ago
After noticing a 'clicking' noise from my Y carriage, I replaced the stock bearings with these. The clicking is gone, it seems smoother, but I also did notice it is not as easy to move. They are a little tighter. But it's working out pretty well. I got enough for the X and Z as well, but will only change them when I feel I need to. I did read though, that the ball linear bearings are not good inby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: random motor movement / extruder help - 8 years ago
That's what I originally thought (about the RAMPS not having any software/firmware loaded), but I thought I read recently somewhere that it did. Oh well, makes more since now. I will try a new SD card first and let everyone know how it goes. After that I think I will replace the arduino and the RAMPS and load the latest and greatest software/firmware. I want to stay away from the clones. The 'ardby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: random motor movement / extruder help - 8 years ago
I am using an SD card. I have checked the g code before and didn't see anything. And if I reprint the same file, it happens at different time, if it even happens again. It seems completely random. I assumed that since it wasn't in the g code, then the slicer wasn't the issue. Is this a safe assumption? I will try a new SD card first and see if that helps. Thanks for the advice,by koenejet - Reprappers
random motor movement / extruder help - 8 years ago
Hello, I have been using a Prusa i3 for almost a year now, and I have noticed that sometimes during a print, either the X or Y will randomly move towards its home position (sometimes all the way to home, and sometimes not), and then resume printing again. I didn't really mind, because it almost always went back to the right spot and continued printing without problems. However, I just recently nby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: trouble adjusting E steps per mm - 9 years ago
Well I got it printing pretty good now. I basically just multiplied the gear ratio by the original steps per mm of the direct drive unit and came up with 440 (way off from the 900 I originally tried), put that into the smart controller and printed a part. It came out almost perfect. And, just in case anybody needs to know: If you install an optical endstop, you will need to go into the configuraby koenejet - Reprappers