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tmc2209 compatible with BTT SKR 1.4 - 3 years ago

I know that I should just remove the diag pin to get end stop working. I just hate the idea. As end stop is triggered, the signal pin is connected to ground. Now I'm thinking designing same kind of stepper driver module as BTT has done, but the diag pin would be open drain or collector. Quite an easy design change. Would I get head crash detection, Z probe and limit switch on my Z-axis if I des

by Vuokko - Experimental and Hobby

Re: Tronxy x3s Help identifying main board and lcd to upgrade firmware - 4 years ago

Best upgrade to tronxy is to upgrade the controller board. The assembly job is horrible. The heatbed FET isn't soldered properly. I had just a small blob of solder to keep it in place and the heat sink on top of the FET had way too much themal glue. Hot end FET has same problem having bad soldering but it has lower current to handle so it shouldn't burn the house down. I wasn't able to see cle

by Vuokko - General

Tronxy X5s control board heatbed fet - 5 years ago

This could go to electronics, but as the control board is rather specific to Tronxy X5S, I'll as in here. My heatbed seems to have infinite power and zero resistance and that burned the driver FET from Tronxy S5s control board. My board has so tight thermal glue that I can't peel the heat sink off to see which FET they are used. Does anyone know what part is used in these boards?

by Vuokko - CoreXY Machines

Tronxy X5 worth of anything? - 6 years ago

I was just curious and searched for corexy design 3d printer from Ebay and found cheap Tronxy X5S. Some reviews praised the mechanics and bashed electronics. As electronics and software are things which I'm familiar, I wouldn't worry about that. Most reviews were just hidden advertisements or someone having fun with a new toy. Has anyone tried those machines and given the analytical engineering

by Vuokko - CoreXY Machines

Re: Wiring SSR and some safety devices - 7 years ago

Ground fault protector would be nice. If your frame is grounded and you leak some mains or low voltage there, it will trip. It will give early warning in that case. SSR has some leakage even it is off and electrocuting with it still hurts. I have ground fault protector, energy meter and SSR in that electric box. GFP is 16A type but the fuse isn't the main idea. Providing ground fault protection

by Vuokko - Safety & Best Practices

Re: What you people use for gluing PLA parts? - 7 years ago

I've had good results with hot air gun. 200-260C, lowest blow and 3mm nozzle. It is also possible to add some filament when connecting or fixing parts. Something like: That works also for reworking electronics.

by Vuokko - Printing

Re: Error with Octoprint communicating with RAMPS board - 8 years ago

First idea would be try to talk to RAMPS from some terminal software. however it is rather tedious process. Usually these problems are ground loops. I haven't seen that exact error message but USB isolator might help. The randomness might correlate some increase of power consumption when signal ground rises relative to controlling computer. If you have raspberry pi controlling the printer, it fl

by Vuokko - Reprappers

Thinking about increasing motor voltage - 8 years ago

My 12V PSU gave up and maybe it is time to increase the voltage. I'm wondering. if I use 24V volts for motors and about 1A avg current with tmc2100 driver, do I really get double output from motor or what do I get? Simple physics says F= BxI, where F is force, B is magnetic field and I is current. Also P = RI2 and again no voltage there. If the I is average and R is impedance which is defined b

by Vuokko - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors

Re: Prusa i3 Extruder Carriage Belt Mounting - 8 years ago

That looks a lot of same which I had in my mill. The vibrations from spindle loosened the belt connection in a half hour. I ended up something like shown in picture. I just cut pieces of aluminium until I had something which worked but the principle can be seen. The bolt pushes the nut and the belt goes up and stays connected. It isn't fast as your idea and there isn't as much room but it shoul

by Vuokko - Developers

Re: OctoPrint and Reflashing Firmware - 8 years ago

I would keep the Pi and Mega cards in separated enough so that I could unplug the pi and with USB extension cable upload new firmware from laptop. But if you really want to study this and you have nothing to start, here is my 5 minutes work. I haven't even tried to use arduino on pi, but on my desktop it feels avr-gcc really likes to use CPU. That said, I would keep the compilation process on r

by Vuokko - General

Re: P3Steel projektia - 8 years ago

Mulla alkaa oleen koppakin jo läjässä. Filtterit tarttis vielä väsätä, niin pääsisi ABS:ää kärystää. Itsellä on pian palanut kelallinen Prentalta eSunin pinkkiä PLAta. Nyt on tilauksessa silentstepstickit, voimakkaammat 400step/r moottorit. Ideana laite toimii, mutta HIPS ei ole niin hyvä kuin luulin. Kaikki jännitykselle altistuneet osat ovat hieman rikki. Minulla on jo PLAsta tulostetu varakap

by Vuokko - Finnish RepRap User Group

Re: Chunks of glass stuck to heated bed. TOO MUCH BED ADHESION!! - 8 years ago

I put it on the bed when it is -20 and bed is 60 right after I've turned it off. I makes quite fast change down to 35 when it is standing there. It takes like 20 seconds or something. And the bed shrinks so quickly that the part usually detaches at that time

by Vuokko - General

Re: Chunks of glass stuck to heated bed. TOO MUCH BED ADHESION!! - 8 years ago

If you get too much adhesion on aluminium plate heat cycle it. If the part doesn't separate when the plate cools off, I usually heat it up to 60 degrees for a 15 minutes. Then I rapidly cool it down. I have 800g old CPU cooler in freezer to drop the temperature fast. usually I hear the part detaching quite fast with this trick. As always, applying heat to plastic may change its dimensions. And d

by Vuokko - General

Re: Questions regarding E3D V6 hotend fan and Reprap Discount LCD - 8 years ago

What else you have connected? I had similar issues with LCD when Raspberry Pi was connected with USB. When I printed straight from RPi, My LCD was full of garbage and communications timed out frequently. Now my printer gets ground from ATX PSU and RPi USB has some 10 euro Chinese USB isolator. Basically it was ground loop. Also your PSU might be little bit underrated if it can't heat the hot end

by Vuokko - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Best lubricant grease? - 8 years ago

I believe this is topic whish everyone has own opinion. I've used gun oil to clean the rods and then lubricated the bearings with it too. Then I drive back and forth each axis and wipe the rods. After a while the rods are dry, I add sewing machine oil which is the real lubricant.

by Vuokko - Printing

Re: SD Card Support... - 8 years ago

Have the cables moved and are connectors fitted properly? Are the card and reader contacts clean? Clean the card, put it in and see if it comes out dirty. How about your power supply? SD card can take several tens of milliamps when starting and then it will just end up in reset loop if the power supply is too weak. I think 8GB is overkill, but it should work. And the speed of card is irrelevan

by Vuokko - RAMPS Electronics

Re: recursion detection behaviour - 8 years ago

I use my favourite editor to write the scad file. When I hit save the preview is updated. So openscad can crash the computer down and I still have the scad file. It also makes easier to check the reference documentation when I can hide code or preview.

by Vuokko - OpenSCAD

Re: SilentStepStick Speed Limit With Marlin/RAMPS - 8 years ago

Dust's information about stepper motors are quite correct. When I attended the stepper motor control course, it began with with statement: "Stepper motor moves in full steps. Period. You can control halvish or quarterishish steps too it." Bad translation but the idea is that each fraction of step is less accurate. What is really wanted is to do a full step with sine wave so that the noise and mo

by Vuokko - General

Re: building my first printer, a few questions. - 8 years ago

QuoteLymphomaniac1 < 5) should i use motor dampeners or would that be unnecessary> If you are referring to cork pads that one puts between the motor and the frame, they are totally unnecessary if you have a sturdy frame. Very few people use them and most people get good results without them. I actually bought some, but never got a chance to put them on my printers. When making printer silen

by Vuokko - Reprappers

Re: Silicone heater double check my maths please - 8 years ago

When you measure the resistance when the heater is cold, the resistance is usually different. I have 300W silicone heater and it calculates to 310W. However energy meter before my printer and I get 320W in the very beginning of heating and it drops down to 260W when the bed reaches 70C. And this is 100% on situation. I drove my SSR with DC from lab power to determine how hot and how much power th

by Vuokko - Reprappers

Re: P3steel V4 file - 8 years ago

As far as I can tell, has good dwg files. The DXF files aren't that good. DWG files match my printer when I imported them to librecad.

by Vuokko - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Ramps motor jerking - 8 years ago

I got only jerking too when I build my printer. I have heavy build plate in my i3, I put acceleration down. Marlin's 3000mm/s^2 is quite high. I started with 100 and ended up with 700. Motor moves and never misses a step. Z had same kind of problem, but It got something like 50 for acceleration and 50 mm/s max speed. I'm not interested to optimize that and losing step single side only is terrible

by Vuokko - General

heated bed is not so heated - 8 years ago

I have 3mm aluminium plate which has silicone heater from Alirubber. The bed heats nicely and thermistor measures right temperature. If I want my DMM temperature probe show me 70C I put it under the bed when bed is heated to 70C. On top of the bed I can measure only 55-60. I'm not that interested the heater's temperature as long as it stays less than 120C. What would be best way to get this prob

by Vuokko - General

Re: Printed motor mount warp - 8 years ago

If fan costs one euro or dollar and filament costs some cents, could it be feasible to add 40x40mm fan to the end of the motor? Would it cool down the motor? The surface temperature of motor iron would cool down but would it extract the heat from coils and their lacquer which is the first place which brakes down with heat.

by Vuokko - General

Re: My second print diagnosis - 8 years ago

Furthest on the left is my first print which ended dropping of hot end. Middle one is second which had problems with Y. But it is good that you tols to check my steps. They all were accurate. I had two dots made with marker. One in (20,20) and other (180,270)and I was able to land my nozzle on them repeatetly. Extruder rolled out five times 100m when asked so my calculations were correct. I'll g

by Vuokko - Printing

Re: My second print diagnosis - 8 years ago

Z axis was fine. I homed, drove to 101.6mm and it was there where it should have been. Then I outputted half hour job which drove Z to different heights and then back to 101.6mm. I tested the height by putting old 3 1/2 inch HDD and sliding paper under the nozzle. I would print on it if I had to. Now that my acceleration on Y is 500 and rest are default. And I can see the acceleration of the bed

by Vuokko - Printing

My second print diagnosis - 8 years ago

I did my second print with P3steel. Speed was something quite fast and layer height 0.1 Temperatures were 200/70 and I used PLA Anyway for now this print looks promising. Only problem is Y-axis. My Idea is to give it more power and lower acceleration. It makes horrible noise and it looks like motor is stalling. Is there something else as obvious to be seen and requiring fixing? Are my diagnosis

by Vuokko - Printing

Re: P3Steel projektia - 8 years ago

Jei! Eka tugbootti printattu. Tullut tuossa prittailtua ja tapeltua Ultimaker originalilla, joka on hidas ja ei koskaan vinkkelissä mihinkään päin. Nyt oli asetukset jotain sinne päin slic3rissä, ja hyvin tultiin pitkän matkaa. Maaliin ei tietenkään päästy. Runko on siis P3Steel v4, 20x30 pedillä sinkitystä teräksestä. Osa muoveista on napattu Toolsonilta, osista tein itse paremmat ja jotkut alk

by Vuokko - Finnish RepRap User Group

Putting X-axis wrong way - 8 years ago

I needed some space between X axis and frame for extruder on my P3steel and I ended up turning x-axis 180 degrees. Now X rods aren't between Z rods and frame and Z can go higher. What kind problems I have created for myself? Except motor rotates wrong way and I can just flip the connector.

by Vuokko - Prusa i3 and variants

How to do same with cube as cylinder(d1,d2,h) - 8 years ago

I want cube which has top of 5x5 and bottom 8x8 and height of 15. With cylinder I can do this simply cylinder(d1=8, d2=5 h=15) but how do I do this with cube? With polyhedron and hard thinking could achieve that, but not really useful, I think.

by Vuokko - OpenSCAD