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Printing issues ...
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
FIXED IT. Soldered an XT 60 to the back of the connector on the board. Those cheap clone ramp boards have faulty connections. Now it heats up and prints like it is suppose too. So in case anyone else runs into this problem check your check connections and if they are weak. Then soldered the leads connector like a deans, tamiya or XT 60. Good thing I build these drones and have a ton of parts toby cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
QuoteInhumierer 3.8 Ohm is a reasonable value for the bed, this seems to be good. These nasty polyfuses do behave very strange sometimes, but it doesn't sound like a polyfuse problem. Is your bed loosing the voltage and stops heating, or is your RAMPS shutting down the heater for any reason? In your test print logfiles from May 7 I can see the bed temp is set to 70 deg, then reaches 69.something,by cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
Would this fix my problem? Installing a mosfet to a separate power supply and running the lead from the ramps into this for monitoring?by cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
Hello Bill. it’s the heated bed resistance problem. it needs to be around 1.4 ohm . then you can heat it up to 100c. and now it’s 3.8 ohm . that’s why you can’t heat it up . did you try to solder 2+3 together first ? ( if there’s this option ) if you don’t do this , then the resistance would be high . after you do this , the resistance should be around 1.9 ohm i suppose. but still a little bby cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
Here is my marlin software. I uploaded. The bed heats up with it hooked to the power supply. I only did this for a test. So its not the bed. Here is what I am thinking it might be. When I took off the old board and replaced it with the new ramps, I noticed on the back of one of the yellow fuses a bad solder joint broke loose. I thought this may be the problem. I did re-solder it afterby cadcygnus - Printing
New bed installed and still same issues with the heating. - 8 years ago
bumpby cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
Sorry I am back again. I just installed the new PCB MK2 bed I bought from amazon. Before I put it in I measured the bed and was getting 3.8 ohms of resistance. I know its not the board. The thermistor is reading 60 degrees so its not the thermistor. I have been able to print,(pretty good too) with just the plate glass with blue painters tape and rafting the object. So I know it is not the ramby cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
Took it off the power board, measured the contacts with no power, set the meter to 200 ohms. Read zero resistance. No symbol for infinity just 0.00. Does that mean the bed is bad? I can print on a cold bed without any delays or stopping points. So I know its not the ramps board. It still could be the lcd 2004 reader or the hot bed or both. I am thinking. Thoughts?by cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
Yep its the hot bed. I am printing fine with no hot bed and just using the elmers xtra tacky glue with blue tape. So on the meter it is a cen tech electronic. I put the dial on the resistance symbol (upside down u). I have a zero setting, and the highest is 2000k. Measure the leads on the bed (not attached to the ramps) I should get ..02 ohm reading? I am sorry but I never learned how to use aby cadcygnus - Printing
Re: The step motor starts the movement but does not complete - 8 years ago
I have found when a stepper motor makes a grizzly grinding noise it means that a connector on the ramps boards is not fully seated into the socket. Like for instance Y goes forward but growls when it does. It means some of the wires are making contact and some are not on the plug connector. Check to see if this is the problem first.by cadcygnus - Printing
Re: Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
It has been printing flawlessly for two years. I did contact Sintron and the great customer service said they had the same issues with the LCD screen card reader not compiling the g code correctly after much use. Sintron did give me a new Marlin updated software with new PID settings, I think the damage is done, and I may likely have to replace the LCD screeen or the hot bed. I have been searcby cadcygnus - Printing
Re: I prusia printer Sintron, Mk8 ramps 1.4 marlin quits 30% in - 8 years ago
Did some test. Printed it from the laptop with the usb cable. It was 50/50 some prints would work some prints would not let the bed heat up. Did a full reboot. Then printed a test file cube from the sd card. Again the results where hit and miss. Now I am thinking it might be the sd card reader. So I am using a new sd card on this next test. I did learn that if I printed for a half hour insteadby cadcygnus - Printing
Problems with printer hot bed not being consistent - 8 years ago
Had this printer for about two years. Did some long prints after not using it for about 6 months. The prints came out perfect on maybe 10) 6 hour prints. Now the printer stops about 30% into an hour print. I changed out the ramps board 1.4. Changed out the power convertor both with new equipment. I flashed the board with the old ardruno software I got from Sintron when I bought the printer. I useby cadcygnus - Printing
I prusia printer Sintron, Mk8 ramps 1.4 marlin quits 30% in - 8 years ago
Had this printer for about two years. Did some long prints after not using it for about 6 months. The prints came out perfect on maybe 10) 6 hour prints. Now the printer stops about 30% into an hour print. I changed out the ramps board 1.4. Changed out the power convertor both with new equipment. I flashed the board with the old ardruno software I got from Sintron when I bought the printer.by cadcygnus - Texas, Houston RepRap User Group
Ramps 1.4 blue connector overheated. - 8 years ago
I have had my Sintron Prusia i3 well over two months printing pretty much every other day for my business. Today I noticed that one of the blue connectors on the bottom of the ramps board melted some. Not all the way through but enough to make it look like a drip of melted plastic. This makes the red wire loose inside of the connector. Can I twist the two red wires that heat up the element foby cadcygnus - RAMPS Electronics
D8 is on the heat bed is not reading 12.6 volts - 9 years ago
I read it was best to start a new thread if the problem is very old. I own a reprap prusia i3. It is from Sintron who put the kit parts together. It prints really good btw. Ok I narrowed it down the negative side on the ramps board D8 is not allowing power to go through. The test I ran not in any order. Power supply 12.6 volts. D8 positive Green block negative. 12.6 volts Heat bed hooked up tby cadcygnus - Reprappers