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Printing issues ...
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If I may add my two cents.
Removing code is not a good idea, in any way - this may well end up causing you more problems than solutions. Dust and Roxy gave good answers/advice, this is what I would like to add.
Use a good text editior to read the Marlin FW, this will make the world of a difference. Your IDE (Integration Development Environment) depends on your operating system, but here are a f
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
For the purpose of this post I will not share alternative solutions to yours (because I do not have any haha). The idea is good, and if this was implemented could be of value.
The question is, do the pros outweigh the cons?
The reason for my response to your post is to just mention that they are busy with a Marlin version 2. This includes some serious reformatting (as far as I know), and maybe
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
For what it is worth, I don't think this is possible.
Reason being, the Marlin FW silently waits for a command (from a file/SD card/program) to execute. As far as I can tell there is no way for the FW to know that a print is finished, apart from the buffer going empty - but this is by no means a sure indication that the print is finished.
I am not sure how calling G28 X (as example to home your
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
I had a look at my relatively old version of Marlin and could see no such option. I doubt it has been 'added' since.
So I would say no, there is not such setting.
Do you understand C/C++ (or any programming language really)? I ask because you could set this yourself. It depends on which LCD screen you are using and so on.
For me, on a RAMPS1.4 board with the reprap discount screen I can edit th
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
I searched through my older version of the Marlin FW and could not find the keyword.
float lcd_probe_pt(const float &rx, const float &ry);
The code above is the declaration of a function "lcd_probe_pt", not the implementation of it. It only tells the compiler that there is such a function and that the body is elsewhere in the code.
I suspect that the error happens during linking? If th
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
I will most likely just repeat what you already know, sorry about that
I think that with a higher voltage input to the fans a higher torque is being produced within each coil, as opposed to 12V. So the fan requires more force to 'switch' from one coil to the next.
So with an incorrect (I am not sure what that would entail) starting frequency the transition happens too fast (or uneven) and you e
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
Try and change the following in your Configuration.h file:
// ENCODER SETTINGS
//
// This option overrides the default number of encoder pulses needed to
// produce one step. Should be increased for high-resolution encoders.
#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1
// Use this option to override the number of step signals required to
// move between next/prev menu items.
#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_ME
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
This may not be of any help, but it may also be
You seem to say that if you set the start PWM of the cooling fans to, say 50PWM, the fan(s) don't turn?
If that is the case, what happens if you manually give them a 'nudge', just to help them get going... do they continue to spin afterwards?
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
Hello,
TL;DR: Is it possible (that is, within reason and not having to rewrite half the code) to make each motor turn at an independent speed from the others?
I am aware that the objective of the Marlin FW is for CNC type applications (and thus the speed of each axis should be related to the others), but would it
be a reasonable approach to change the Firmware for independent motor speed control
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
Thank you for your input Dust,
These two definitions/pins are used very sparingly in the firmware. I had a look at your suggestion of possible inclusion and/or exclusion via #defines and could find no evidence of that being the case.
On looking at my second post I realize how absurd this seems. I define the TOGGLE_PIN to be an input and high pullup, and that is about it . The state of the pin i
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
I am asking what is the distinction between analogue and digital pins.
Essentially I have this:
#define TOGGLE_SWITCH 3
#define FILWIDTH_PIN 3
When I "use" the TOGGLE_SWITCH in the SW it produces a different output than if I were to use the FILWIDTH_PIN in the same code.
I do not understand how these two #defines are distinguished from one another.
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
It sounds like your switch is working (your subject suggests otherwise)?
When you reset the printer and control each of the axis, do they move in the correct direction?
Have you tried setting the direction of your Z-axis the same as your other axis (in your Configuration.h file)?
Currently it is:
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
Maybe make that true?
Sorry if my suggestions are not useful, I just
by
v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
Hello,
How are the pins declared analog or digital?
[*EDIT* after Dust's input. What I mean is how does the FW know which physical pin to use on the board? I have two pins declared the same value, yet the FW reads the input from two different physical pins]
To keep things short and simple I will say what I am doing, and that it is working. My problem is I do not understand how it is working.
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
Using this calculator I get 160: .
But that is with 32 uStepping. 256 sounds our of this world. It looks like using 2 for your belt pitch looks correct yes.
Try this thread as a start: - have you looked for similar questions on here?
Lastly, empirical testing will show you the way, in my opinion. By changing these values you should see the difference practically. If you do opt for this route
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
Hello fellow reprappers,
EDIT*************************SOLVED*****************************EDIT
tl;dr - Problem solved, incorrect post.
I had a problem with changing the direction of a stepper motor. I was using firmware provided by the Lyman/Mulier project for filament extrusion on Thingiverse: .
The firmware used is based on the Marlin FW, and the motors responded as per Marlin configuration.
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v1talogy
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Firmware - Marlin
What Roberts said,
I would also check and re-calibrate the extruder. It looks like is not always extruding as much as it should. It could also be slicing related. Going too fast around small perimeters etc.
Many variables, but temperature and extruder calibration would be my guess.
Good luck.
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v1talogy
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Printing
Hello dhien2,
You will need to provide more information if you expect help. Also, if your previous board was well tuned, who did the tuning?
Printer type?
Board Type?
Driver type?
Firmware?
Slicing software?
What board did you replace? Is the the same board (version and everything) you replaced it with?
More information would help.
Good luck.
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v1talogy
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Printing
Hello henripster,
This is a bit of a late reply, but what is your start gcode for the print? What slicing software are you using?
Look out for this "G1 Z5 F5000", it could be your culprit, unless that is the 'Zoffset' you speak off.
I would remove that line of code and see what happens, or set it to G1 Z0 F5000 if you feel so inclined.
Good luck.
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v1talogy
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Printing
Some great advice the_digital_dentist, thanks!
I never thought of changing the infill pattern, I do indeed use rectilinear and I suspect that is the reason as you mentioned.
This is the only time I have used a percentage value as opposed to a quantified value in mm, I will try the mm option and also a different infill pattern. I guess the rectilinear option prints the fastest (I think) so I ju
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v1talogy
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Printing
Good day fellow reprappers,
Do any of you know if there is a way to increase the flow rate of my prints during the slicing process with slic3r? I find that my flow rate is far too little and the only solution thus far is to increase the flow rate (150%) manually while printing infill, and set it back to 100% during solid or top layers. This is quite frustrating. I have also set the infill extrus
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v1talogy
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Printing
When you slice a file to create a *.gcode file, what are you commands when the print is finished?
It sounds like it could be that you instruct the printer to retract the filament by too much after a print is finished, say 20 or more mm. Then when you start a next print there is no filament in the extruder.
In any case, just feed some filament through the extruder (once it is properly heated) b
by
v1talogy
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Printing
What does plug with filament mean? Do you mean it gets clogged/blocked and it won't extrude filament any more?
If so, there are many things could be the problem.
1) Check the temperature of your hotend/heatblock (use the correct temp for your filament type).
2) Calibrate your extruder - check that it does not extrude too much/too little or too fast/too slow.
3) Check your z-axis calibration - i
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v1talogy
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Printing
Ahh ok.
I am not very familiar with Repetier-Host, but I would definitely say take a screen shot yes! Try and keep a copy of every change you make to be able to 'undo'.
I would suggest do as obewan said yes. Again, I am not familiar with Repetier-Host, but imagine that the process obewan suggest is to calibrate the printer.
That would be (as an example to your response) the (current steps*50mm)
by
v1talogy
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Printing
Hopefully you can follow obewan's advice and get closer to solving your problem.
I would imagine that the person or place you got the printer from provided you with the configuration files for your printer. This is very important. If you do not have any such files you will have to calibrate the printer yourself, but I am almost certain you were given these files. Use your operating systems searc
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v1talogy
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Printing
Hello dindibo4,
What software are you using to control your printer?
What firmware are you using to configure your printer?
If you tell your printer to move 150mm (any of the axis in any direction), does it move that distance? Obviously this is where you should start and if it is wrong you must change some values in the firmware of your printer.
If your Prusa is using a RAMPS board you are most
by
v1talogy
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Printing
Mm ok, most of my response will be around the clack clack clack sound you mention.
I have no experience with Wade extruders, but I have read about them a lot . If your temperatures are not too high (you must always be able to touch a motor indefinitely in my opinion) then it may be that your extruder driver is not driven hard enough.
You have mentioned that you have tuned them correctly, and I a
by
v1talogy
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Printing
What do you mean your extruder misses steps?
Is there not enough filament coming out of the hotend (direct driver, bowden, wade?), or does your X and/or Y axis lose steps and thus it looks like your print is 'losing steps'? If you say your drivers are tuned correctly (which drivers are you using?), have you looked at your extruder motor overheating or your driver overheating? If the extruder str
by
v1talogy
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Printing
Right, I seems I owe every reader of this post an apology. Firstly for posting this question in the wrong section, and secondly for using the wrong install package.
From what I can gather I have always attempted to run development packages which gave me problems as mentioned above. For reasons completely irrelevant to this problem I reinstalled the mint OS and gave this whole process another go.
by
v1talogy
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Developers
Hi fellow reprappers,
Has anyone been able to run slic3r on Linux Mint 17?
When I follow the instructions as on the slic3r website (https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/Running-Slic3r-from-git-on-GNU-Linux) I get stuck on the actual build of the application:
perl Build.PL
The instructions says do not build as root, but if I run it as is the compiler says it does not have permissions (creatin
by
v1talogy
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Developers
Judging by your pictures the problem is on your x-axis?
This is indeed quite odd. A logical conclusion is that each individual step is in fact not linear, but that it seems linear over a long enough distance. From this I also assume you calibrated the axis over a long distance, say 100mm or more?
What I mean is if you measure the smallest possible step on the problematic axis, you should see ea
by
v1talogy
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Printing
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