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Printing issues ...
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Indeed tying the Z min probe and the Z min endstop together on 1 pin, activating Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN fixes everything!
Problems solved
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
My firmware has the Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN option.
I think I have to modify something anyway. I am OK with using my probe as Z min endstop. However I still want my normal z min endstop to be there. I will figure something out.
I think the new firmware will be better. However, I doubt if the firmware is going to work without several modifications. I don't think many printers have a t
by
JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
I think I am making progress.
I found a good article on the Marlin website about the whole endstop en probe challenges.
This document said I should use MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS to tell at which height the Z min end stop is located. So I set the value to -0.675mm. This is the value between the Z min end stop and T0 (print nozzle). The NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET is still set to -2.4mm. This worked. I got
by
JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
Dear all,
I am having a really odd problem when I was trying to add a bed leveling system to my tool changer 3D printer. My printer is somewhat unique so bear with me.
First of all. I am running Marlin 2.0.5.3. Updating this firmware is hugely time consuming due to large amount of modifications I have in my current firmware. Advising me to update my firmware is not really what I am hoping for
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
Hi DerAndere,
My apologies for the late reply.
That is great to hear! I haven implemented this is yet. The problem is that I modified Marlin a lot. Changing firmware is going to be a lot of work and requires a fair amount of testing. One day I will implement it. For now, I am happy with the results I got for handling the elevator as an extruder and some hacked code around it which is absolutely
by
JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
That is great!
I have done some reading on the github page and this is indeed what I am looking for. Fantastic! I will wait patiently
by
JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
O dear. I have been reading about RRF. Sadly enough I am running an atmega 2560. I don't know if this is compatible.
Anyway, changing firmware completely is less than ideal. I already made several modifications to Marlin. I think I can wait. I will try to run the elevator as an extruder with some other code for homing. I think I would get this to work.
Any rough idea on the release date of 6 a
by
JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
Hi all,
I created a 3D printer tool changer which stores its tools on an elevator. The tools are exchanged by a cable pulling system. These two additional axes both need to be added to Marlin. Both axes need to run independently but not necessarily synchronized with any other axis. The elevator axis uses a home sensor. The cable pulling axis an end stop sensor.
One way to add these axis to Mar
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
That is an interesting board. I would love to try this.
I was looking on the internet where I can buy this board. Mostly alibaba.... Al lot of other suppliers are out of stock.
I would prefer getting this board from a European supplier. Do you know any?
by
JanJans
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Controllers
Dear all,
I am looking for a small atmega 1280 or 2560 board with at least 3 stepper drivers on it. I haven't been able to find any board that complies to my needs. Perhaps you guys now a board.
I am currently using a Arduino Mega with a Ramps board. This board is to large for my application.
I am really enthusiastic about this board. I contains everything I need. However, I do need an atmega
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JanJans
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Controllers
QuoteDust
Your screwed. No controller has bluetooth.
Some have hacked on bluetooth module on to a serial port. But only as a serial interface over bluetooth.
Brilliantly clear responce. Thank you.
Kind of sad though.
One of the things I wanted to try is trying to ad a bluetooth module to a RAMS board. This does not comply with my specification mentioned above because I probably have to fidd
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JanJans
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Controllers
Dear all,
I am looking for a board which includes bluetooth. I have been looking on the internet but haven't found any.
First let me explain my situation.
The company I work for decided it is fun to give our customers a give away present. The present consist of 3 steppermotors which should be operated by bluetooth. We will have to build more than 100 of these give away present. Therefore I am
by
JanJans
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Controllers
I was not expecting this to be so easy. I already put a fair amount of time in researching the "bad solution". However, today I accadentely came across powerloss.cpp in the firmware. This is good example of some codes that I was looking for! That was a big help. I will share them with you.
I created my own G-code number and wrote some code of my own. Executing other G-codes within my g-code code
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
Question is solved already
Hi All,
I have question. I am currently designing a tool changer upgrade. This tool changer has a elevator mechanism to elevate parked tool heads to maintain the usable print area. The elevator is operated by two steppers. The tool changer also uses a stepper to lock the tool head. I other words, I need two additional axes in Marlin.
There are two options as far as
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
Update!
I replaced the belts with new steel wire ones. These have a new belts have significantly less stretch than the kevlar ones. I was shocked when I discovered that the original belts where the wrong types! The pulleys where GT2 pulleys and they where using MXL belts! That explains a lot! The designers of this printer are noobs to say the least.
The print quality again improved significantl
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JanJans
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Printing
Update!
I ditched the bowden system. I went from this
To this. The extruder is temporarily held in place by tape and tyraps.
The increase in print quality is amazing! I should have done this earlier.
However, there are still some lines in the print. You cant feel the lines any more though. This is a big improvement.
The deck is still poking through. No change there, but all other lines
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JanJans
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Printing
I have been busy too. Yesterday I checked the mechanics of the printer. I couldn't find anything wrong with the Z axis. The Y axis however as a some play on the bearing of the print head carriage. The play is pushed consistently to one side by means of gravity. Perhaps this in not always the case when accelerating violently. I will try to replace this bearing. The bearing glued inside the alumini
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JanJans
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Printing
That is true.
Although it doesn't really explain the relationship between the lines and the change in geometry of the print. It would be a strange coincident that the Z height fault would occur at exactly these locations.
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JanJans
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Printing
I doubt that has anything to do with the Z axis. All lines are geometry related. The lines are always at places where something in the geometry of the entire print is changing. If there a temporary misalignment in the print head it should be the X and Y axis. It would be interesting to change the orientation of the print just to see the effect of this on print quality. Printing the print on a ped
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JanJans
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Printing
I am aware of this. However, the blobs are also outside the text box area. This shouldn't happen in an ideal world
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JanJans
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Printing
I would like to reopen this topic.
I added a thermal fuse as suggested. The thermal fuse will trip at 150 degrees Celsius. I couldn't use the lower (120 degrees Celsius) because I was able to trigger the fuse in really hot applications. I never tried to trip the 150 degrees fuse. That is really high for a bed heater. The heater itself will probably be close to 180 or 200 degrees running at full
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
I have a possibly challenging print issue for you all.
First of all, some specs.
PLA
Layer height: 0.2mm
Normal size benchy
Slicer: Prusa3D Slic3r MK2 with modified Prusa profiles.
Printer is a 1.75mm modified bowden printer. Printer is mostly redesigned by myself.
Here is a shot of the print head.
I'm struggling with strange lines on my prints. I don't know what I can do about this. All line
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JanJans
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Printing
Why didn't I think of that! That one is too obvious.
Thanks for your advise and my apologies for my stupid question.
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
Hi,
I came across a potential problem during the redesign of my printer. One of the problems of my printer was the low bed temperature. I solved this by buying a 500W heater than runs on 230V. This very powerful heater will be placed in a more or less enclosed space. This is a huge candidate for burning my house down. I need some extra safety features.
The heater will be switched by a solid st
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JanJans
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Firmware - Marlin
Perhaps sometime in the future
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JanJans
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Mechanics
Well, there never was a fan. That's another design fault.
Your suggestions how to improve the nozzle definitely are interesting. However, this is not the time for me to experiment with nozzle designs. I'm afraid I'm stil going to replace it. I'm going to buy a compleet E3D all metal hotend That should solve the issues. This gives me time to work on all the other design faults on the machine. Ye
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JanJans
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Mechanics
I'm afraid you misunderstand how the nozzle is assembled. The peek part has only one function. That is to keep the heat away from the bracket. If it didn't encircle the filament supply line (the peek part isn't part of the supply line) and was placed several centimetres away it would have had the exact same function as it currently has. Putting the peek on top of the metal bracket renders it usel
by
JanJans
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Mechanics
The manufacture designed its own printhead for this printer. The printer used PLA and was ABS ready according to the specifications. ABS ready is more or less a lie. The print bed is barely capable of reaching the temperature needed to print PLA. So overall it is safe to say that it is a PLA printer.
Higher temperatures increases the problems even further. The whole print head is useless without
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JanJans
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Mechanics
There is more information available on 3D printheads design than I thought. I spend yesterday night reading about printheads. What I learned was that a normal has three zones.
- Cold end
- Transition zone
- Melt zone
My strange printhead has only one zone. The melt zone. The cooling fins without any air flow aren't nearly enough cooling to create a transition zone. Therefore the transition and
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JanJans
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Mechanics
It is supposed to touch the hot end. Nothing wrong with that part of the design.
The brass part screws directly into the hot end.
Here is a picture of the multicolor printhead. Here you can see the brass part more clearly. The single color printhead uses the same brass connection part as the multicolor printhead.
I removed the multicolor printhead a long time ago. That thing fails miserably.
by
JanJans
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Mechanics
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