Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 2 Pages: 12
Results 1 — 30 of 45
Reducing vertical surface roughness? - 5 years ago
I've finally got my Hypercube printer reasonably dialed in after adding a Zesty Nimble and moving to Klipper. As of now I can print acceptable parts @ 120mm/s, decent parts @ 80mm/s and high quality @ 40mm/s. The only real difference in the levels of quality is the amount of vertical surface roughness so I'm looking for the most cost effective way to improve the situation. For the most part, if tby tgmorris99 - Printing
Re: Anet A8 Axis Issues & Home Position - 5 years ago
Have you looked at the Marlin configuration docs? They show most things that need to be customized but don't necessarily go into the details of how to do the changes, etc. For installation info just switch to that tab.by tgmorris99 - General
Re: Anet A8 Axis Issues & Home Position - 5 years ago
I don't know if the following will help out or not but it seems like it might be a good place to start.by tgmorris99 - General
Re: LCD12864 startup issues - 5 years ago
FWIW - I get the same garbage displayed on my RRDFGSC connected to the SKR V1.3 running Marlin bugfix-2.0.x and it works fine once fully booted. I did not alter any of the timing settings and am using the longer cables. The display worked w/o any issues when connected to an Arduino/Ramps setup so it's either the current version of Marlin or the H/W. Oddly, the garbage on the display does not alwby tgmorris99 - General
Re: Really odd 3DBenchy issue - 5 years ago
Thanks. I'll set it up in the morning and give it a go @ 75% as leaving the low value @ 35% resulted in a poor quality print. However turning off the variable bit completely so the fan stayed at 100% the entire print also resulted in poor quality. I'll need to baseline things again to ensure the only changes from the earlier print to current are the fan settings. What's odd though is that the Cby tgmorris99 - Printing
Really odd 3DBenchy issue - 5 years ago
I've recently switched out my Arduino+Ramps for a 32-bit SKR V1.3+TMC2208 UART configuration on my HyperCube. Everything seems to be running OK and test cubes are printing fine using both Cura and Slic3r. However when trying to print a 3DBenchy using Slic3r I get a really weird artifact where it prints what looks like an additional perimeter on the hull as soon as the transom is encountered. At fby tgmorris99 - Printing
Re: Extruder Steps per/mm changing with extruder temp - 5 years ago
When it's hotter the melted filament is more fluid so there is less back pressure and the incoming filament will encounter less resistance. If you remeasure the e-steps without the filament going through the hotend and it's correct then perhaps you have a nozzle that needs attention due to a clog or some other restriction.by tgmorris99 - Firmware - Marlin
Re: BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 + Full Graphics Display constantly resets - 5 years ago
Turns out it was the watchdog timer causing it. I turned it off and the display works just fine. However this seems like a bug as the watchdog timer probably shouldn't cause a reset during the startup process.by tgmorris99 - Controllers
Re: BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 + Full Graphics Display constantly resets - 5 years ago
That's good news on the potential conflict. Sorry if I didn't mention it but things seem to work just fine without the LCD plugged into the 2 connectors. I haven't done any printing but everything heats and moves correctly via Pronterface. Although when doing the Pronterface connection nothing prints out (simply says printer is online) unless I send commands. I guess the other test is to turnby tgmorris99 - Controllers
BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 + Full Graphics Display constantly resets - 5 years ago
I just brought up a BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 using Marlin bugfix-2.0.x and everything seems to work correctly using Pronterface on my HyperCube. The bed & extruder heat correctly and everything moves and homes as it should. Instead of moving over the A4988 drivers from the existing Ramps 1.4 board I installed TMC2208 v3.0 uart drivers to quiet things down. When I plug in the ReprapDiscount Full Gby tgmorris99 - Controllers
Re: Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 7 years ago
I've sent you a PM on what I'm using. My case is a bit different in that I'm using separate PSUs for the hotend and the bed. My 300x300 bed draws quite a bit during initial warming but stays at a comfortable draw of ~4A once it reaches temperature. If i was using a single 24V PSU I might be able to get away with it since the hotend doesn't heat until the bed reached initial temperature.by tgmorris99 - General
Re: Powering Ramps with 12V and Bed with 24V - 7 years ago
Rather than upgrade the RAMPS to 24V I opted to go with separate 12V & 24V supplies and use the RAMPS to switch an external mosfet for my 24V bed. It was straightforward to implement and it meant I could easily control the max current to the bed so as to not exceed the PSU limits during initial heating.by tgmorris99 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Extending cables for display - 7 years ago
I'm using the 600mm cables w/o any issues but I'm fairly certain that going to 5 feet would be a no go using ribbon cables. I've seen 1 meter shielded cables for sale but that still falls significantly short of your goal. You may be safe using ribbon cables at 2.5 feet like you've done if you make sure they don't have any cross talk issues with the other wiring.by tgmorris99 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: weird corexy drifting - 7 years ago
As noted in the comments on YouTube, that user had the jumpers set incorrectly so it's worth double checking to make sure they're set properly.by tgmorris99 - CoreXY Machines
Re: How much power does a 12v PSU use when idle? - 7 years ago
I use one of the inexpensive 12V 30A supplies and with my system powered on (Mega 2560/RAMPS) but nothing else running it uses about .7A @ 12V. The AC amount is negligible.by tgmorris99 - General
Re: What SSR from 12V Ramps 1.4 to 24V 360W silicon heatbed - 7 years ago
If you want to power everything with 24V then you need to make sure all to components on the RAMPS can handle 24V. I believe the input thermal fuses are usually rated at 16V so you need to look up how to run everything on 24V. Also, if you're going to run things at 24V then I'd connect the other input of the mostfet to the TTL signal input and not use D8 to switch it. If you look at the A* linkby tgmorris99 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: What SSR from 12V Ramps 1.4 to 24V 360W silicon heatbed - 7 years ago
Yes. The mosfet switches a separate 24V supply just for the bed. The 12V supply powers the RAMPS and the bed circuitry on the RAMPS. The mosfet is switched on/off by the D8 bed power which then supplies the 24V to the bed. See the diagram for details. In my case I have Marlin set to supply 80% max power as otherwise my bed draws more current than the supply rating when starting out cold. Once atby tgmorris99 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: What SSR from 12V Ramps 1.4 to 24V 360W silicon heatbed - 7 years ago
I'm using this on my 24V 300x300 bed and have it wired with RAMPS D8 switching it.by tgmorris99 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Strange behavior on Y axis - 7 years ago
Sounds like you've tried the obvious. Can you hear it missing steps when this happens? Does it happen at different print speeds? Can you print the object on a different portion of the bed to see if it behaves the same to ID a possible binding problem? Does it happen on different objects?by tgmorris99 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Inconsistent filament extrusion (with picture) - 7 years ago
You might lightly grip the filament between your thumb and finger as it's going in and see if you can feel if it's acting the same as when it's existing the nozzle. If it feels like it's continuously moving then the nozzle is probably building/releasing pressure so it would be an internal problem.by tgmorris99 - Printing
Re: E3D V6 random clog and unclog - 7 years ago
How old is the filament? Does it behave the same with a different brand?by tgmorris99 - Reprappers
Re: New DIY printer issues and questions - 7 years ago
I'd start much closer to the lower temperature printed on whatever PLA you are using. Start with a small calibration square and see how that goes. Also, what print speed is being used? I can print Hatchbox White @ 180 when using 30-60 mm/sby tgmorris99 - Printing
Re: Folger FT-5 or HyperCube and bed with one side support - 7 years ago
Just my $0.02, I wouldn't attempt a cantilevered bed at that size. The need to ensure no tilt on that size would be easier to engineer as a dual support scenario instead of over-engineering the one sided design. The frame will need to be a bit larger for dual support but at the size you're planning that wouldn't seem to be an issue. Also, at that size bed you'll likely want a MIC-6 or ATP-5 bedby tgmorris99 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hypercube xy distortion - 7 years ago
Looking at your latest picture it appears that the Y guide rod and the cutout for the endstop on the motor mount are not parallel. Is the motor mount twisted or is the guide rod installed incorrectly? The guide rod also seems angled compared to the blurry 2020 extrusion so I'm guessing the guide rod has an issue but it may just be the slight angle of the photo. Pictures of all 4 corners would defby tgmorris99 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Can anyone help me with find copy of 123d design? - 7 years ago
My understanding is that 123D is more or less abandoned at this point. It will work fine on the local device but online storage has been shut off and the website redirects to Tinkercad. I recall reading that they were going to beef up Tinkercad.by tgmorris99 - General
Re: Hypercube xy distortion - 7 years ago
The modified diagram doesn't reflect reality as the parts are no longer being constrained by the positions of the 2020 extrusions, which is what the thin reference part is that is to the left of the motor mount and the idler bracket. The position of the XY Joiner also no longer aligns with the position of the guide rod. Now if the OP really built it that way then there would definitely be a problby tgmorris99 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hypercube xy distortion - 7 years ago
As an exercise I lined up the various parts (motor mount, idler, XY Joiner, belt, pulleys) for the left motor in 123D and the belt path at the XY joiner *should* be well under 1mm tolerance. Assuming I lined everything up correctly the belt path from the motor pulley to the idler pulley looks to be out by 1mm or so. The drive pulley assumes a 12.7mm belt pitch and the belt segments as drawn areby tgmorris99 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hypercube xy distortion - 7 years ago
Definitely need to see pictures as I'm pretty sure that the Hypercube as designed is good as far as the belt path goes. There are a lot of remixed parts out there that "improve" on the design but I'm not certain they all maintain the same geometry so if any of those parts were used in the build that could possibly be a source of the problem.by tgmorris99 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Problem with oval shapes. - 7 years ago
In addition to checking the belts, etc. also make sure that the X & Y axis are perpendicular to each other. If they aren't you'll see similar issues. The X axis can be squared to the Y axis by adjusting the belt tensions.by tgmorris99 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Looking for suggestions - Repeatable error different print speeds - 7 years ago
I ran benchy again and still have issues even though the calibration stuff prints fine. I'm thinking it's something with over extrusion when moving from the flat surface to the curved bow section. The direction of travel when printing the exterior is from the stern to the bow, left to right in the picture. This is done with a 1.75mm filament and a bowden setup. The e-steps are calibrated and theby tgmorris99 - Printing
Page 1 of 2 Pages: 12