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Printing issues ...
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@uorbe001 thanks for posting your solution, I appreciate it! Once I resume my hobby (currently stalled for holiday and other reasons), I will look at that solution.
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RepMike
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General
@berferd Thanks for your reply, now I know that I'm not alone I haven't touched my A10 for nearly half a year because I was fed up by this problem.
The wiring theory sounds very interesting, please let me/us know about any outcome of this. Let me know if I can help testing anything.
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RepMike
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General
@Dust I am using the Octopi image and I have enabled the camera via raspi-config, so it has put these values in /boot/config.txt :
# enable raspicam
start_x=1
gpu_mem=128
I've disabled these values, rebooted and saw no change.
Moreover, I've switched over to a more powerful Raspi 3b+ without any camera attached/configured and still no change.
So I think neither Octopi nor the Pi spoils the te
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RepMike
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General
Oh, and by the way, I’m using a Pi Zero W for Octoprint, not the “full Pi”, could the performance of the Pi be an issue? I’ve noticed that this Pi is the slowest computer in the world.
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RepMike
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General
A PID tuning seems to make the amplitudes bigger and I think, I'm going to erase the EPROM again. (See picture).
As the printer is relatively new (2-3 months or so) and it hasn't printed too much, I think, I'll start with the power supply. I agree that a power supply can be cruicial.
To answer Robert's questions: The heating cycles are: Bed first, then the extruder heater. I didn't dive into
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RepMike
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General
Hi, I'm having problems with higher temperatures with my Geeetech A10 and the GT support forum is basically dead. You are my last straw.
PLA is working just fine, the extruder is heating up to about 205°C and printing starts right away.
With PETG or ABS I'm not lucky as I need higher temperatures. The temperature of the extruder seems very jumpy and Octoprint says "Still stabilizing" over a
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RepMike
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General
Anyone can recommend a sensor that would work when I have an IKEA Lack filament guide? That guide has an aperture of 65mm and the filament is traveling from left to right, so I can’t really catch the filament inside a little photoelectric sensor. Example for such a guide:
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RepMike
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Developers
Thank you, dear reprappers, for your valuable input! As regards my spool, it is currently located behind the printer, roughly about on the same height than the upper bar of the frame where the filament guide is located at; I haven't mentioned that in my first post.
@the_digital_dentist: On the side where there is strain on the filament, the perimeters sometimes show anomalies and if I set the s
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RepMike
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Mechanics
Hi, in the search for the holy grail in 3DP, I stumbled upon my filament feed ... whenever the extruder is in position #1 or #3, the pulling forces on the extruder seem to be a bit high (I see differences in the outcome of surface quality), whereas in position #2 it seems fine, because while being in #1 and #3, it pre-pulls some filament and lives from that in/during #2. (See picture). I am using
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RepMike
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Mechanics
I gave up on this sensor (3D Touch / BL Touch) as I couldn't get any solution to my problems with this sensor. I've replaced it by a capacitive sensor (LJC 18A3 B-Z/BY) which I got for around 4-5€ at aliexpress. I am highly impressed how easy it was to install and what consistant and brillant results I get with ABL after correctly adjusting the sensor and after finding the right z offset. It save
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RepMike
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General
Thank you for your reply and for taking your time to look through Configuration.h.
Here's the relevant parts on the Board:
I hope it's fine that I only took a picture of those parts, the rest is just a ball of cable wool.
I took Dupont Wires of the same color in order to extend the wires of the sensor and I've measured the continuity of the current from all connector ends.
The 10,90 / 90,10
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RepMike
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General
Hello, I've got a Ramps 1.4 Board on which I'm trying to get the 3D touch sensor from Geeetech running. It does nothing. Can you help me?
Here is my Configuration.h:
If I manually push the pin up, the red LED lights up, manually down: LED off. I have connected 5V to VCC by a jumper and I've connected the cables as in the documentation, I am sure that the cables are as they are supposed to be, s
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RepMike
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General
Hi Community, I wanted to share something that really helped me. I hope it is helpful to any of your setups.
Before: Bed & Extruder heated up, I was sitting there with a pair of pliers waiting for the initial plastic to come out of the nozzle due to heating up and I was trying to catch it before printing actually starts. If I didn't do that, there would have been a mess, almost no print wou
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RepMike
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Printing
Ok, I've changed a lot, and I think it came out pretty good. Any comments to the outcome or the parameters are welcome, it still can be improved in lots of points, always. But: the initial problem is more or less gone. Current setup of bed adhesion: Painters tape from ALDI Süd (German Grovery Store, they have painters tape from time to time), Elmers Glue Stick on top. Printing the ABS at 235°C an
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RepMike
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Printing
To me, it was contradictory to have a Z endstop and to do Manual (Mesh) Bed Leveling, but this guide speaks of a metal arm (seek for those two words on that page) and THAT little travel distance of the metal arm is the +/- area of adjustment, so in the end it worked for me. I think I will replace that with an opto endstop, that will allow me better adjustment, I think. So that's my experience so
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RepMike
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Firmware - Marlin
Thanks, @MCcarman for your detailed feedback, I will go through those points as well. As regards the Leveling procedure, I follow this guide where it notably says: "The Z-endstop should be set slightly above the bed. An opto endstop is preferable but a switch with a metal arm that allow some travel though should also work" ... and I'm taking the metal arm route; I know, it's not ideal.
And Thank
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RepMike
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Printing
Any new findings about this topic? This topic is on my table now while fine tuning my i3 Rework.
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RepMike
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Firmware - Marlin
In fact, before every print, I do a manual bed leveling using a piece of paper. I have a Z axis endstop which triggers when I am at minimal height above homing position and the rest will be done by the bed leveling procedure, which verifies 9 spots and I test them with a piece of paper: I lower the nozzle until the paper nicely draws with a gentle force and the texture of the paper can be felt. T
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RepMike
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Printing
Hi, I got a little problem, when printing ABS on my custom built i3 Rework, I get this effect:
Luckily, the first layer sticks as hell (Elmers Glue Stick on top of Hairspray), but the second layer and approximately layers 3-5 are not right, they build a gap between the first layer and the rest.
Below you can see my settings in Slic3r.
I've tried with a raft layer, but THAT won't stick so we
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RepMike
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Printing
I got the solution! Thank you! The mirroring is history now ...
And thank you for the link - very insightful explanation. So, on that website, in the summarizing table, I find myself in line #2 (and #4), i.e. best for my case would be to have the origin front-left, because my Y limit switch is located in the back and I am at Y=0 when I have homed the Y axis.
Line #2 of the table:
Bed Motion A
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RepMike
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General
Hi, I have a self-made Prisa i3 rework (Ramps 1.4/Arduino 2560), built after the tutorial from the reprap-wiki and I have a problem: Everything seems fine except for the X direction of the prints, they seem flipped/mirrored.
If I sit in front of the printer, the X axis looks like this:
M|------E-------S|
X: 193 0
Homing-Dir.------>
M=Motor
E=Extruder
S=EndStop
X=
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RepMike
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General
My bed's resistance is 1.5 Ohms. I got it running by the way by the following procedure: I've done the PID tuning for the bed up to 90°C, a value which it can do after a while (takes long though). Then I took those values and reused them to Heat the bed up to 110° and it works like a charm now.
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RepMike
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General
I have the same problem as the original poster, the heatbed doesn't keep the temperature. Also seeking for a cure for that. Some prints come out fine, some not. A guaranteed failure can be reproduced with the print fan.
I am using a (black) MK3 heatbed in the 12V configuration, the gray side (non printed side) is on the upside and I'm using a borosilicate glass plate on top of that. the sensor
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RepMike
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General
QuoteAlterBastler
Die Annahme ist falsch.
Schwarz an GND, Weiss an Endstop-Pin.
Danke für den Hinweis, die Polung war allerdings korrekt, ich hatte es nach dem Foto verkabelt.
Ich habe übrigens auch folgende beide Konfig-Zeilen ausprobiert, ohne Erfolg:
#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {90,10} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow ang
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RepMike
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Elektrik & Elektronik
Hi, ich hab nen selbstgebauten i3 Rework mit einem Arduino Mega 2560 und einem RAMPS 1.4. Nun wollte ich einen 3Dtouch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor anschließen und sehe irgendwo nicht, dass der funktioniert. Meine Frage an Euch wäre die, ob ich was übersehen habe oder was ich noch nachschauen / tun könnte.
Wenn ich den 3D-Drucker einschalte, geht der PIN des 3D Touch 2 x runter und hoch, bleibt dan
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RepMike
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Elektrik & Elektronik
Hello, I have ordered the RepRapGuru acrylic frame (and only that) and I'm in the middle of constructing the Prusa i3 Rework 3D printer based on that. I found that the 10mm threaded rods from the Rework Build instructions (the base bed with the heated bed on top) are not fitting into the frame, in fact they have to be 8mm in order to fit. I've seen in the original dxf file that there is a distanc
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RepMike
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Prusa i3 and variants