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Printing issues ...
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On my setup I tried it with no retraction and no difference.
Its not on a specific area like when it comes back to do the outer wall for a few cm its the entire outer wall in my case.
If I did a cube I could literally peal the outer wall off the cube....
I did correct this, I just cant remember how....
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
I have struggled with this same issue with PETG for a long time now...
I wish I knew exactly why this happens, I have tried hundreds of things...
I will follow this closely
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
TQVM!!
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
good point o_lampe.. i did not think of that...
I don't know where to look on that tho, perhaps dc42 can direct on that.
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
I believe this is the one they use, I should say same design....
examine it carefully to be sure but it is cheap enough that not much loss if its wrong
finding the right person with the right equipment to do the solder work is likely to be VERY important tho....
There are a few designs to choose from:
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
ya know I did search for that first....
no idea why I could not find it...
TQVM!!!
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
How would one go about wiring and programing a NC switch to activate an emergency stop macro?
I want to put one on my HEVO
Also, any suggestions on the macro would be appreciated
Duet Wifi F/W1.12 btw.
Thanx
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Instead of removing the skirt shorten the length of it.
Another problem I have faced is the footprint of the model first layer is too big and when the skirt is on it goes outside the bed boundary.
you can in that case have the skirt very close to the print, on one recent print my footprint was 217mm across and I had my skirt 0.5mm from my print, my bed is 220mm wide.
You should keep your skirt
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
sounds like the Z probe is being triggered all the time. So each G28 you issue it moves the bed and reads a probe trigger and stops.
Check if you need to invert your probe trigger.
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
About all I can get from the programing peeps talking on that thread is:
1) others want it too.
2) some are working on it.
3) It might be something included in a future F/W
maybe one day then... Thanx
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Should probably clear the height map from stored file with G29 S2 first thing in the macro....
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
I am used to having my marlin based printer running on an Rpi running astroprint print server. This gives me a WEB interface, file serving with no PC attached to the printer and the ability to monitor the print via a cloud connection and emails me when its done.
I can obviously do without the WEB interface and file serving as the duet handles that all, its the other features I will miss:
Cloud
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Ok. Todays work turned out quite fruitful...
Turns out going back to point zero was a good idea. Got rid of a bunch of leftover bad info and worked only with things I was happy with.
Found that there was a type 9 probe in 1.21 ( I was using type 5 in 1.21 b4) so I decided to go back to 1.21 after messing with 1.20 and type 5
Used the RRF tool to build my basic setup and then changed probe typ
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Quotedc42
Why did you delete all the files in /sys? Now you need to re-create the config.g and homing files. I suggest you use the configurator at .
PS - you will get a faster response to your questions if you post them on the forum at .
I wiped my system folder because I could not figure out what I did wrong, decided to start from a fresh configuration, as per the second question in my first p
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Not getting anywhere in the last 5 hrs
BLT works:
M280 P3 S10 I1 - YUP pin goes down
M280 P3 S90 I1 - YUP pin goes up
Z-Probe Value always = 1000 EDIT: I found the I1 value in config G on the M558 line, I got a Z home finally, I gotta stop now, to frustrated, take this win and start over again tomorrow...
created deploybrob.g and retractprobe.g so all good on that.
Discovered the P9 sett
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Thanx DC42 but I still got:
× M997 S0
Error: M997: In-application programming binary "iap4e.bin" not found
SO I took that file from 1.21 and uploaded it, then it took the renamed 1.20 file
After that I deleted all files showing in the system editor tab and rebooted. Now showing 1.20 on firmware.
Have I created any problems with this procedure?
I have connected by USB now and re-setup my w
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Ok, so after getting my Duet Wifi HyperCube EVO actually up and running and even printing after I got the BL-Touch calibrated M31 z offset bed mesh and everything I was walking on air.
Then I shut it down, came back the next day and NOTHING I could figure out would solve the issue, I would home all, them move the head to bed center, lower to Z0 and test, it was touching the build plate.
start th
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
This looks like its happening at a seam location? Perhaps your stringing out some extrusion just before it resumes at the seam leaving the nozzle less than full.
That can happen with PETG often enough, less likely with PLA unless your temp is high.
if you have your temp as low as possible while still being able to print, then increase your non print move speed a bit.
increase your retraction an
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
PETG is quite brittle so thin parts don't work well, If you can redesign maybe make the walls a little thicker. It can make for a very strong part but when it comes to something with a little give ABS is much better for thin stuff. Really need a heated chamber to do ABS right tho....
Layer adhesion is not likely the issue, that's where PETG shines. Maybe slow your extrusion fan a bit, I run m
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
Those two should give you all you need.
Although I think you may need more info on that thermistor... when you read through the wiki you should know what to ask of the supplier.
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
I have had brands of PLA that would not stick to the bed worth a $hit, complete waste....
change the spool to another brand and instant success....
there are differences trust me.
when you find one that works for you and you dial in the settings, try not to switch if you can avoid it
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
PETG likes to string, I suggest 3.5mm retractions at around 45mms speed.
then do fast non print moves.
I print PETG slow around 45mms and my non print moves are 150mms on my duet based hyper cube and 100mms on my marlin based baby cube.
If your I3 type design you are likely to have issues moving your Y axis that fast if your jerk settings are not dialed in well tho.
Essentially as fast as you
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
I did a lot of ABS last summer but when the summer heat and dry was gone I could not print ABS if my life depended on it....
I had a cardboard box for my printer and I bought a heater setup for it too, never got the heater installed as I tried PETG first...
I have been doing PETG since mid Sept and while I have several spools of ABS still fresh in packages, I am not likely to go back....
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
looks to me if you up your first layer line width it may come in.
Dont forget to drop your bed temp a little until you are sure you wont over bond when you have more plastic coming in
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
Just to add a little, when doing wattage calculations I get my total, add 20% and then round up from there to the next PSU size in the list.
You can never have too much wattage, but it sux when you don't have not enough!!!
by
JustSumGuy
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Safety & Best Practices
Check your acceleration and jerk settings, these are most likely where the issue is.
Make sure you M502 before tests, if your eeprom is storing values and you adjust your firmware settings the eeprom settings can keep getting pulled in over your changes.
M502 - read firmware settings and set to SRAM. Called 'Factory RESET' but in reality its pulling the settings you set (or failed to change) in
by
JustSumGuy
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Firmware - Marlin
plz attach a pic of your first layer issues. bottom side pic
PETG is (once you get the hang of it) as easy as PLA.
That said its a PITA to get the hang of.... I can print PETG awesome on my old printer, I am still struggling with my new one....
The first layer is crucial, too much squish with too much heat and you need a chisel to get it off.
To much nozzle distance and you have an ugly su
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
should be able to use an open analog pin to measure a voltage source.
did a little google for ya:
by
JustSumGuy
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Firmware - Marlin
if you have a long path say 20mm is the first 5-6mm still affected?
My thinking is that you may have some form of pressure advance or after a retract extra feed is enabled that is feeding a little too much filament in prep to lay down a line, so the first few mm has more plastic than it needs.
The idea is to load enough filament in the hot end to over come what is being lost to gravity during a
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
I found the TMC2100 almost noiseless in spreadcycle mode and never bothered with stealthchop at all.
There was more noise coming from the belts on the pulleys....
I wonder if stealthchop is in conflict somehow.... maybe something with the stepper motors or something somewhere....
So I am guessing you cut or de-soldered cfg1, if you have a spare TMC2100 Stepstick maybe you should try it unmodif
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
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