Show all posts by user

Re: NEMA17 stepper motor guesses? - 3 years ago

Thanks for the feedback. I upgraded my printer to 24V some time back when the stock, over worked 12V power supply let the magic smoke out. Upgrading it to 24V was definitely worth it, and since then I've also upgraded it to a 120V SSR controlled silicone bed heater. So far, the 0.9* steppers seem to be doing well on the X/Y axis. DC42, yes, the extruder is set to 94.4 steps/mm. I'll have to look

by Cougar281 - General

NEMA17 stepper motor guesses? - 3 years ago

I just upgraded my X & Y steppers from 42HD4027-01 1.8* steppers to 17HM19-2004S units, and I'm considering doing the same for my extruders, but the problem is I have zero clue what they are, what their specs are, etc. The 42HD4027-01's are 1.8* units, with 400mN.m (0.40 Nm, if I'm not mistaken) holding torque, and the 17HM19-2004S's are 0.9* units with .46Nm holding torque. All of my origina

by Cougar281 - General

Re: Marlin homing issue - 4 years ago

Do you think that when I ran the M502, it actually cleared whatever 'scratch space' is used for non-volatile settings and did in fact reset it to defaults, even though I was unable to run a M500? So far I've had three prints, one before running the M502 and two after that didn't fail to home after the print; Of course now that I've said that, I'll probably start getting more failures lol. Edit:

by Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Marlin homing issue - 4 years ago

Thanks for taking a look - the PIDTEMP & PIDTEMPBED, assuming you're referring to the 'DEFAULT_Kp', 'DEFAULT_Ki' and 'DEFAULT_Kd' values would be different because I don't believe I ever did any PID tuning on 1.1.8, but I did do PID Autotunes on 2.0 and put the learned values into the config so it has the learned values as default. I'm not positive why I made 'EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH' different. Th

by Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Marlin homing issue - 4 years ago

Thanks for the offer. The odd thing is it doesn't seem to be every print. Last night I ran a short print to test a new filament, and that gave me the homing error. Today, I started a long print before I saw your message and that one finished fine and homed properly after the print. Still, I ran the M502 command you recommended, and after that, the controller essentially went TILT - it halted and

by Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Build plate/Z Sensor clearance oddity - 4 years ago

I too was having trouble with the idea that the nozzle was fine but the sensor wasn't, but I think I ended up figuring this out after I got some sleep and revisited it. To answer your questions, my carriage is running on two 8mm linear rails and four bearings, two on either side. What I believe it ended up being is cable stress. I didn't have the cable from the sensor secured, so as the print

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants

Marlin homing issue - 4 years ago

I've been running Marlin 1.1.8 for a long time, since I got the CBot version of Marlin and copied the values over to the official Marlin 1.1.8. Marlin 1.1.8 has been rock solid for me, so I tried upgrading to 1.1.9. That worked well, except for one issue: post print homing frequently failed and halted the controller. So I reverted back to 1.1.8 and have been running that since. I just migrated

by Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Marlin PID Autotune - 4 years ago

Well, to be honest, I use OctoPrint and RARELY use the controllers menus. I mainly use it for at a glance info on temperatures and Z level. But that's the one thing that might be nice to be able to do all on the printer; run the autotune for each heated device and automatically store the learned values.

by Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin

Marlin PID Autotune - 4 years ago

I've been using Marlin 1.1.8 for quite a while, after 'converting' the original firmware supplied with my printer to the 'official' Marlin, and it's been working great. I tried upgrading to 1.1.9 but I had a lot of issues with it failing to go to XY home after a print and halting the controller, which went away when I reverted back to 1.1.8 - been totally solid on 1.1.8. That being said, I decid

by Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin

Build plate/Z Sensor clearance oddity - 4 years ago

I just put my printer back together after replacing the LM8UU bearings that the build plate is running on and adding a drag chain to control the bed heater wires, and ran into something that has me scratching my head. When I put it together and started to level the bed to get it roughly where it needed to be, with some more fine-tuning later with the bed and nozzle hot, but for now, get it 'in t

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants

Inductance/capacitance sensor 'confusion' - 4 years ago

Everything I've read about the induction sensors we use with 3d printers says that they're 'generally' meant to read thick steel, and that they can be a bit 'less sensitive' to the relatively thin aluminum used for build surfaces. The SN04-N sensor that came with my printer always sensed real close to the build surface - probably 1-2mm off of it. I was doing some searching, looking into sensors o

by Cougar281 - General

Re: Creating a 'plate' with evenly spaced holes - 5 years ago

That is perfect! Thank You! The code I had cobbled together was a combination of a part that I had made to replace rollers on my nieces futon and a 'sheriff's badge' I had found on Thingiverse. It got it started, and with enough tinkering, it probably could have been made to work, but I figured there had to be a better way to do it.

by Cougar281 - OpenSCAD

Creating a 'plate' with evenly spaced holes - 5 years ago

I need to create a 'plate' with six holes, evenly spaced every 60*. I've gotten a lot further than I expected to, considering how little I know about OpenSCAD, but with the code below, I got to a real beginning and basic version of what I need. Now for the hard part (for me). The six holes need to be further out and need to remain evenly spaced. Right this moment, I don't know exactly how big it'

by Cougar281 - OpenSCAD

Cura print order - 5 years ago

I didn't see a folder for Cura, so I figured this would be the best place for my question. Is there a way to make Cura print objects in a specific order that I'm missing? In past versions, once I placed all objects on the build plate, I could move things around and getting them printing when and where I wanted, but that behavior seems to have changed in 3.6, as each time I move items around, th

by Cougar281 - General

Re: Building a 3d printer - looking for some suggestions - 5 years ago

Quotecozmicray Flyingbear p902 has huge bed cantalever they even dicontinued it with p905 that supports bed on two ends Consider linear rails read thru: a lot of good build techniques there The digital dentist knows how to build a printer Yes, the 902 actually is a poor example with regards to the build plate - I was planning to have the build plate supported on two sides more like the

by Cougar281 - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: Building a 3d printer - looking for some suggestions - 5 years ago

Well, I currently have a dual extruder setup, although I haven't moved into actually doing dual extrusion and the second extruder is raised up higher than the first one since I haven't been using it. As far as leaving marks, I actually have an issue where when the carriage is moving from one location to another over the print, it tends to drag across the print, so I'm guessing a second nozzle wou

by Cougar281 - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Building a 3d printer - looking for some suggestions - 5 years ago

After a year of printing with the CBot kit I got last year, I decided I want to build my own, larger printer. What I'm building is going to be similar in design to a Flying Bear P902, just bigger. I have a good idea what I want to do with the Z-axis, but the X & Y axis is where I'm floundering a bit. I was originally thinking of using linear rods, at least 8mm, for all. I had been thinking o

by Cougar281 - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: Modifying/upgrading CBot i3 Printer - 5 years ago

In case anyone is interested, after some time, thinking about it and figuring how I might go about it, I finally upgraded the way the Y-Axis on my i3 Clone rode. I got a few more pieces of 2020 Extrusion, two ling pieces of 500mm long 8mm linear rod, four linear bearing mounted in aluminum blocks, and a Gulf Coast Robotics V2 Aluminum Y Carriage plate. I also HIGHLY recommend this style of T-Nut

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Controller output issue - 6 years ago

That looks like a nice, sturdy setup. I'd like to modify my printer so the build plate rides on rails like yours, rather than the 4020 extrusion and four plastic wheels. Not really sure of the best way to go about it though.

by Cougar281 - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Controller output issue - 6 years ago

I flashed the firmware this morning with 'BOARD_MKS_13' instead of 'BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEB' and now everything's working as intended. The second hot end heats up when I tell it to (instead of the fan turning on lol) and when I tell the fan to turn on, it does.

by Cougar281 - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Controller output issue - 6 years ago

QuoteRoberts_Clif I quickly went through the code in the pins_MKS_13.h * Arduino Mega with RAMPS v1.4 adjusted pin assignments * * MKS v1.3 (Extruder, Fan, Bed) * MKS v1.3 (Extruder, Extruder, Fan, Bed) * MKS v1.4 (Extruder, Fan, Bed) * MKS v1.4 (Extruder, Extruder, Fan, Bed) And the it call pins_RAMPS.h I am confident that this is what will address the Extruder, Extruder, Fan,

by Cougar281 - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Modifying/upgrading CBot i3 Printer - 6 years ago

No one has any thoughts on this? It seems like the little plastic wheels the build plate rides on are slowly shredding from the printing.

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Controller output issue - 6 years ago

Thanks - I will give that a shot when this print finishes. Funny thing is the firmware they sent me had it defined as 'MOTHERBOARD 33', which in that version of Marlin is 'RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)'. No wonder it went sideways with the original firmware too!

by Cougar281 - RAMPS Electronics

Controller output issue - 6 years ago

I have this controller that came with my Prusa i3 clone from CBot and transitioned it to the 'real' Marlin firmware not long after getting it. The original firmware simply wasn't right, and while the Marlin as configured, doesn't seem 100%, it's been doing fine for the most part. One thing I just noticed, is that it seems to not understand that there are two extruders, and I noticed that if I try

by Cougar281 - RAMPS Electronics

Modifying/upgrading CBot i3 Printer - 6 years ago

I've been printing on my CBot i3 printer for a few months now, and although I've had some learning pains, mainly with regards to different filament, such as PETG, the printer has been making some pretty decent (IMO) prints - nothing has really failed that wasn't somehow my fault (for the most part - there was this one print..). But one area where I feel it's lacking is the way it rides along the

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Converting 12v to 24v - 6 years ago

That suggests to me that the driver is capable of running up to 35v, not necessarily that the steppers are running at that voltage (or whatever the board input voltage is). At any rate, whether they run at 3.3v, 5v, 12v, 24v, or whatever, the drivers are fine with whatever the voltage is supplied to the controller, be it 12v or 24v, and at least in the case of the steppers that are on my printe

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Converting 12v to 24v - 6 years ago

You sure? This is the stepper on my X & Y axis (Z might be the same), and according to the page, it's 3.3V. I haven't been able to find anything to indicate that they run on 12 or 24v, but I've seen 3.3v multiple places for these particular steppers. I can't say I noticed any apparent difference in their operation after switching to 24v. If there is some difference that I'm just not noticing,

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Strange print issue - 6 years ago

Thanks, I'm using Cura 3.1 so I'll look for those settings and give them a shot. I'm printing with PLA at 210, 60 bed temp and .1 layer height. Speed 40 with a wall speed of 20. Unfortunately, I don't have a cooling fan for the print (just the one for the throats heat breaks). I'm going to have to try to find some kind of duct setup that'll work with my carriage and print heads, or some year fi

by Cougar281 - Printing

Strange print issue - 6 years ago

So far, I've printed pretty much one thing at a time, and so far, my prints have pretty much all come out decent. Maybe not 100% perfect, but definitely functional. But today, I had my first print snarl-up. I was trying to print this (nine of them at once on the plate), the way the author printed them (upside down), and after the first handful of layers were down and looking good, I left it be a

by Cougar281 - Printing

Re: Converting 12v to 24v - 6 years ago

What noise are you referring to? I've read some posts about steppers making annoying high pitched noise when idle but powered, which these don't make, but they do make 'noise' when they're moving, although I'd say it's nothing annoying and is a 'noise' that I'd consider normal for operating motors. Plus the supply voltage shouldn't make a difference to them, as best I can tell, they seem to actua

by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants