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Printing issues ...
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As the title says, I'm using a MKS Sbase V1.3 with a cheap printer running on Marlin Firmware successfully. However, as usual, the DRV 8825's are just too noisy, and I would like to use the external stepper motors driver boards on them. They are on the way, hence why I can't just plug and test. I searched and can't seem to find (there's one link to thingiverse with the author saying they just upg
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iamthebest22
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Firmware - Marlin
I got my SKR 2 with the newest 429 chip instead of the 407 one, nightly build Marlin merged with BTT's file compiles fine. I am using TMC 2209 in SPI mode I believe with the jumpers, set correctly and I have a weird problem with Z homing.
Normal Z movement is fine in the correct directions, but when I go to home Z, it then moves in the wrong direction (up instead of down), and when I manually t
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iamthebest22
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Firmware - Marlin
Thanks obelisk, I'm doing that too, changed to a longer smooth rail for the clearance cause the original length did not permit me to use a second bearing, so I changed to a longer one and changed the smooth rod lower z holder to UNDERNEATH the extrusion instead of above like before. I also decided to use one longer lml12uu (57mm) instead of two LM12UU (30mm each)I hope that works just as well.
I
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iamthebest22
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Reprappers
wow thanks you very much! Wow looks like my one motor is definitely enough! Please tell me if I did it right though:
So for Force I put 13000 g (that's max area my thing can handle/print out, I fully know that it will never get that close, but better to be safe then sorry)
then for pitch diameter I put 2mm because if I interpret it correctly (and if I didn't please tell me) I have a T12 x 2mm le
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Okay and I can understand that, however, here's my story, and you should read this before you start to get frustrated.
Like many others, I relied ALOT and ALOT on facebook groups (I'm literally in 6 Hypercube groups) which has a huge groups (over 30k people in total) to find answers and ask questions. However, as I've started to learn more and more about 3d printer design only just recently (afte
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Sorry but not changing it, it has nothing to do with this subject , just a childhood memory .
Thanks for the constructive criticism, as I am indeed a self learning guy, and I did do research after that post was made and realized that 4 is indeed a bad idea, hence why I posted in the other one topic and left this one alone, because this one needs to be closed, just never bothered asking. However
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iamthebest22
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Printing
huh? I'm confused to what you are saying >.<
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iamthebest22
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Reprappers
Hi everyone, originally I posted in the Printing area cause I thought it was a printing issue, but it seems more like a possible design problem.
So I've just finished building a printer size of 500 x 500 x 780mm ish, and was testing it. The first issue I had was z wobble, so then I changed from alum flex coupling to jaw/spider coupling, which helped just a tiny bit. After a few more tests, the d
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iamthebest22
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Reprappers
Just a thought, should I maybe instead remove the back motors, and instead go for a 4 motor setup? so put the two smooth rods at the back back again, but put two motors there for a 4 z motor setup? Or is the triangle setup better?
here's what I mean by 4 motor setup:
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Hi Dentist, undfortunately I am really tight on budget right now, or else I would immediately buy a longer 2020 extrusion and make the back closer to the back motor, unfortunately I can't, so is another possible option to add another smooth rod to the right of the back side motor, or would that again cause more problems as you said,
as for the z wobble, I printed a much bigger object, the bigge
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Okay so I managed to design myself a smooth rod holder at the back, unfortunately due to clearance issues I could only fit in a LM12UU (30mm one) instead of a LM12LUU (57-58mm), However, you are right, after I put in the back smooth rod and removed the two back ones, then put the bed all the way down, , the bed straightened out and holy the nut was off from the jaw couplers, so basically before d
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iamthebest22
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Printing
crap I don't think it's quite possible for the back one, as it would hit the hotend part cooling fan when it print towards the edges >.<. I was wanting to do that (putting one beside each lead screw as you said) until I saw that wasn't really possible (it could be but possibly very hard). If that's not possible and I could only use two smooth rods, which ones should I remove?
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iamthebest22
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Printing
@ the digital dentist, so I'll be following your instructions and removing two of the smooth rods/rails. Based on your observations and experience. should I remove the front two smooth rods (the ones closest to the side lead screws as you saw in the pictures) or the back two smooth rods (the ones closest to the back lead screw)?
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Hmm okay, just thought I'd put in an update though, here's a print WITHOUT the bearingless top holder, and it looks like i should put in the top holder, as interesting if you you, you'll see that the thing "layer shifts" at the exact same distance after a certain height.
this didn't happen with the bearingless holder on top, is this caused by what you are talking about the smooth rails/rods?
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iamthebest22
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Printing
oh it's a Hypercube Evolution, a corexy, here's a pic of the whole thing:
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iamthebest22
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Printing
so an update now, took out the bearingless holder and it doesn't seems to make much of a difference though possibly slightly better. However I think I found part of the problem (other than the original aluminum flex coupler):
I think I have to slow down my print speed.
So I'm currently using around 80-90mm/s print speed, now not all is using that speed for obvious reasons, but when the perimete
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Okay so the bearingless holder didn't do much, changing it from aluminum flex to Jaw/spider/plum coupling though, it seems to have made a huge difference, *fingers crossed* but right now the z wobbling is almost gone, it still "seeable" if I shine a light on it, however it pretty much not sensible by touch.
My question then is this, I will be trying it without the bearingless holder as a last c
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iamthebest22
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Printing
eh sorry when you said trying it both ways are you referring to spider jaw couplers or having a bearing or not at top?
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Oh I forgot to mention I'm using T12 -2 single start, so it can support the heavier weight, but I guess that doesn't matter, ah I'm using aluminum flex couplers, should I maybe try spider/jaw couplers? I'll try the electric tape method, do you mean like this or actually take the thing out and put it on that end and then slip it back in? Thanks
@the_digital_dentist I don't have a bearing holder
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iamthebest22
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Printing
Hi all, so I finally finished building my BEAST HEVO (hypercube evolution) (with a build plate of 500 x 500 x 780) and am currently doing some tests/torture tests when I see this "problem"
So the thing passed the calibration cubes and 1st layer test flawlessly almost (the x and y are 0.05mm within each other and I get 20.05mm and 20.04 mm on x and y )
So I started testing the height to see if
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iamthebest22
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Printing
ah okay guess I should change out the wires then. Thanks!
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iamthebest22
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General
got a weird problem I hafta ask, the answer seems obvious but I wanna ask to confirm before I do it. So basically it's been working well until today, when I get sudden G29 probe failures at the same exact two points (out of the 36 doing a 6 x 6 it's a huge 500 x 500 mm bed). So I checked and oddly enough once in awhile at those two points, the damn thing suddenly loses power, I thought it was a w
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iamthebest22
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General
@ruggb
1. Will do that as soon as I have time
2. That's what I'm thinking and I'll update below
3. Huh? Mines are the same
4th this is the big one and I'll explain below as said above (lol)
5. That's what I meant, z offset was not consistent, but 4 and 2 was the reason
6th, I've set it to 6.5mm per second for homing
7th it's already on
Okay so I absolutely forgot to use the M48 despite having
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iamthebest22
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General
It works! Thank you very much everyone! I did need to invert the logic of endstop like ruggb said, and turn home_z_feedrate to 7mm/s to make it work properly. However after more testing, I think I'm going to go with the Duet Wifi I have that was suppose to be a backup.
Dunno what's the issue (and please let me know if you have an idea of what could be causing this) but after the G28 I go and te
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iamthebest22
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General
Ahhh okay so is this what it should be like in the Marlin Configuration.h under the endstop settings?
// Enable pullup for all endstops to prevent a floating state
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// Disable ENDSTOPPULLUPS to set pullups individually
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
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iamthebest22
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General
Hi Idris, thanks for the fast response (it's my birthday today too )
I used the multimeter, the pin where the signal wire connects to gives off 0.06 Volts when NOT plugged in, and when plugged in, it's pretty much 0V but sometimes it does 0.01 V according to my multimeter.
All my Orion PCB's are V 1.2
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iamthebest22
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General
@ruggb thanks for the fast response, here's some more updates
it's connected to the servo0 right now according to the picture I linked above D13 (here is the link, near the bottom left)
I'm using Marlin 1.1.9
This is the weird thing, I did try to put it at the Zmin, but nothing happened apparently
UPDATE: The Z min endstop on my F6 board is defective, no power going through it, so I changed
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iamthebest22
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General
Hi everyone! Got my big hevo (hypercube evolution) finally fully installed and trying to setup my Piezo ORION to work, but no matter what I've done so far it just won't detect it when I home z after x and y and when I tap it (I didn't want it to crash into the glass bed and possibly cracking it) I see the blue light turn on and the red disappear but still just kept pushing the z up towards the no
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iamthebest22
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General
Hi all, recently decided to upgrade my Cr-10 Mini to a Titan and V6 after just fed up with the original extruder slipping gears (and no tightening of the extruder available though I probably could have just switched to the aluminum MK8 extruder Flexi) and I seem to be having trouble with the Bilinear leveling. I forgot to take pictures, but it seems like despite the leveling succeeding (and the r
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iamthebest22
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Firmware - Marlin
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