Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 1 Pages: 1
Results 1 — 13 of 13
As the subject suggests, my heated bed on my CTC i3 clone is struggling to hold enough temperature to print ABS and TPC. I'm using the bed and power supply that it came supplied with, though do have a MOSFET driving the bed heater.
Question is, do I need a more powerful heater or a bigger PSU, and what do people recommend?
by
SoundsDigital
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedc42
That sounds like the common problems encountered when printing ABS, which also needs about 100C bed temperature. The solution for ABS is to print in a warm chamber. It's not always necessary to heat the chamber, I found that putting 2 plastic bags over the printer kept enough heat in from the bed heater to solve bed adhesion and warping problems.
My printer is open and I am having trou
by
SoundsDigital
-
Printing
I've tried a number of settings, but bed adhesion is the common problem. A raft starts peeling up at the corners, skirts and brims start warping from the left side (always the left, despite the print being symetrical). Managed to get it to print eventually by turning the print speed right up to get it done as quick as possible before the adhesion fails, once it has got high enough, I have had to
by
SoundsDigital
-
Printing
I'm used to seeing things written as for example 80 +-10 degrees meaning 70 - 90 degrees, which lead me to think it was an error, it even says it can be printed without a heated bed, so to specify the bed must be ~100 degrees goes against that too.
by
SoundsDigital
-
Printing
I recently bought a roll of Flex45 from RS components. The datasheet says it should be printed on a bed temperature of +-100 degrees. My first print went well with a bed temperature of 80 degrees, but have failed to get more than 10 layers since. Does anyone have a bed temperature that works reliably? I'm pretty sure there's a misprint on the data sheet as +-100 degrees is a very big tolerance
by
SoundsDigital
-
Printing
I was getting an identical pattern which is all but eliminated now I replaced my Z axis screws which were 8mm threaded rod with ACME lead screws and replacing the two linear bearings with 4 igus bushes. Hoping to get the last few imperfections out by fitting bearings to the top of the screws.
by
SoundsDigital
-
Printing
Don't forget that retraction needs to be deducted and not added just to make it extra complicated. I suppose it could be done externally by counting pulses to the stepper driver and monitoring the direction pin if Marlin can't handle it.
by
SoundsDigital
-
Developers
QuoteOhmarinus
QuoteSoundsDigital
I would seriously consider ditching the endstop altogether and fitting a probe for a much better job which will allow auto levelling. I find the twin lead screws on the Z axis are a pain to keep in sync.
Lead screws should not run out of sync. Are you using two of the same stepper motors? Is your vref calibrated correctly on your stepper driver? Are the cables c
by
SoundsDigital
-
Reprappers
Most CNC builds use GRBL rather than Marlin which is a smaller firmware allowing a lot of configuration to be done through the G-code rather than firmware. I run Marlin on a 3D printer and GRBL on a CNC machine connected to the default GRBL pins. I certainly wouldn't run a CNC machine on Marlin.
by
SoundsDigital
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Have you tried just running the Z axis steppers?
I'm used to seeing the Z axis move up at the start of the homing sequence before going down, leading me to think you are running the wrong direction on your stepper(s) or simply stalling in the up direction. If your power supply isn't man enough for the steppers and they stall either because they can't lift the carriage or the carriage is blocked b
by
SoundsDigital
-
Reprappers
I would seriously consider ditching the endstop altogether and fitting a probe for a much better job which will allow auto levelling. I find the twin lead screws on the Z axis are a pain to keep in sync.
by
SoundsDigital
-
Reprappers
Ahh hadn't realised the pins were different on the chip itself, I thought when I read the pins on the Anet were different it just meant the pin allocation was different. Another brilliant idea that went wrong. I have successfully replaced the processor on Woodpecker CNC boards with those taken from an Arduino Namo clone successfully. Thought this would be a similar task.
by
SoundsDigital
-
Reprappers
I have a CTC i3 clone with an Anet board. Having made a few upgrades, (bed levelling, replaced lead screws, added mosfets etc) I have been hoping to activate the advanced pause and nozzle park features to enable me to change filaments part way through a print. Unfortunately the Atmega 1284 on the Anet board is really struggling for memory and crashes when I compile the firmware.
Has anyone (succ
by
SoundsDigital
-
Reprappers