Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 1 — 30 of 77
Update.. just did a quick check of my Extruder and I must have done the math wrong.. just adjusted it and will try again with the 20mm cube
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
Thanks..
Yes 0.4mm Nozzle
Basically this Marlin printer is Identical to the MK2 as far as the build.. There are some differences.
this on has Lead screws, MK2 is thread rods (Z set to 3200).. so the Z axis is set to 400 on this printer and when measured for distance it looks correct
MK uses a Mini rambo, this one has a Rambo 1.3 Full size
X and Y are 80 ( however I adjusted them based on me
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
I am lost as to the cause.
Basically when I print an Object, like a 20mm cube, after it is complete and cool, I can peel the side off of it.. I have 3 perimeter layes and I can peel the first 2 for sure.. on any of the 4 sides. This is with PLA, I noticed it more on PETG and when back to look at the prints I did in PLA and it is the same thing..
All axis and extruder are calibrated base don wha
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
Quick update..
Got VSCode working.. that is a nice way to upload Marlin.
I will say, it is amazing how well a unit can work with a solid frame (Aluminum vs Acrylic) and a bit of time to dial in everything. my PLA Prints I have tested look great!!
Next to dial in PETG
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust
Live Z is called babystepping in Marlin
there are 5 different bed leveling systems.
which one is best is up to you.
personally they are all excuses not to actually level your bed for real
Yes, But what kind of process do you go through to manually level your bed? Do you do it every time you print?
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
Got it.. I compared the Configuration and Configuration_adv in Notepad++ I changed everything I have currently set from 2.0.5.3
Now It complies, and builds to my Rambo 1.3 I am able to move my Z and X. I am still in process of rebuilding my Acrylic printer on an Aluminum frame and fixing other small issues.
I do have a question on Marlin firmware. I have another printer with Prusa MK2 Firmwar
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
Yeah so I assume I have to hand edit them.. That will be tomorrows task to edit and get the 2.0.7.2 set up (Meaning Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. I assume manually editing is ok with Platform IO? Or do you do everything in PlatformIO.ini ?
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust
PlatformIO is the best way to go on windows.
But something is quite broken with your platformio install
Got further.. Ran it again and I used the Config from 2.0.5.3 which apparently is not the same in the 2.0.7.2
SO, I need to do a compare and set up the 2.0.7.2 with my 2.0.5.3 changes and try again..
But I am making progress. I have the time as I am waiting for hardware to finis
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
Made progress.. Helps to reboot the PC.. however I still get errors
PS C:\RepRap\Marlin-2.0.x> platformio run -e rambo
Processing rambo (platform: atmelavr; board: reprap_rambo; framework: arduino)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
Hello,
I am wanting to go from 2.0.5.3 to 2.0.7.2, I can compile the 2.0.5.3 in Arduino IDE but cannot do it with 2.0.7.2.
I remember someone saying PlatformIO is the better alternative.. so I have gone through a bunch fo stuff I go to the Auto Build Marlin. I have my Config files in the 2.0.7.2 directory but when I try to run I get this:
QuotePS C:\RepRap\Marlin-2.0.x> platformio run -e ram
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
usually you only need to use 2 of the 3 wires for the endstop switches. Atleast that has been my experience with my Folgertech Framed printer
by
jdebuhr
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I have a RAMBo 1.3 on my RepRap Guru printer. running Marlin 2.0.5 seems to work well. I have another printer, Basically an original Prusa I3 MK2 on a folgertech frame running a Mini RAMBo and that is running PRUSA code
I like them both, the 1.3 has a few more features I might use at some point, but right now it works with the basics
by
jdebuhr
-
Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDust
Nothing wrong with 3d printed part, but if you have a acrylic backbone, replace it asap.
Suggestions on a replacement for the Acrylic backbone? I was given a RepRapGuru printer and I need to replace the backbone..
I have a second printer to print any needed parts for a new backbone
by
jdebuhr
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I used Arduino IDE 1.8.10
I still have not had time to mess with Platform IO yet
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
DOH!!
Found it all
If I would have looked in the motion menu, not Configuration
Sorry
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
Hi All,
I am migrating from Marlin 2.0.2 to 2.0.5.3. At the same time I am adding a Z Probe and the bed leveling. I went through and confirmed it would compile prior to installing on my machine.
I compiled and uploaded to my machine and on the main screen is ERR: EEPROM Version.
Anyone know how to fix it? FOUND this fix for EEPROM ERR... used M502 and M500 then M501 that worked
Also is ther
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
So I was at 2.0.2 now on 2.0.5.1
I am reconfiguring a RepRapGuru Printer.. the Acrylic frame sucks, but I will deal with it for now. I rebuilt the Extruder to match that of the Prusa MK2, just works for me.. anyway. waiting on a couple parts this week to finish it.
maybe by this time next year I will have a fully rebuilt printer.. LOL
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
Alright.. I think it was an error on my part in the code.. Yet I had to check it too many times to find it
Thanks for the advice. I missed uncommenting a setting which started this whole struggle of me fixing things
on a positive note I will upgrade to the latest Marlin now too..
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
ok.. I will try that.. BUT WHY did it work 2-3 times prior? nothing was added or changed to the libraries.. just the Configuration.h
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
I was makign some subtle changes on my print.. moving the Endstops form max to min, correcting the Stepper motor setting.. I had compiled it 3 times.. worked fine on print.
I when to recompile for a fourth time and I get an Error compiling for board RAMBo.
the last change I made was changing an endstop to -1 from 1
reset printer, computer restarted Arduino IDE.. still nothing but that error
I
by
jdebuhr
-
Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRays3dworld
Hey Guys, so now that the company is done for, im running into a little trouble. I want to update the firmware, but idk how to go about that. Any in that would be appreciated, just try and explain it as clearly as possible, thanks
what version of Marlin is on the printer now? I have a reprap Guru printer, I am planning on rebuilding it. I have an upgraded controller and LCD, bu
by
jdebuhr
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for all the help..
255/100 then 110 seems to work fine.. I need to figure out an enclosure and a good spot for the printer..
Also I will be working on rebuilding one of my printers.. Might even look to get a better frame and ditch the acrylic
I do know I really like the PEI sheet on my one printer.. that is great for printing on
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
My print today.. Hatchbox ABS temp 255/110 but 100 bed for first layer
The stuff that use support looks ok. Bottom looks good the one not so good area is a bed issue
The was printed @ .2mm 30% infill
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
QuoteMCcarman
Makes more sense now as i can see you have characters in the bottom layer.
Left one is best. Shows more squish on 1st layer. However the perimeters don't look joined so i think you may be under extruding.
Check extruder calibration and extrusion width settings.
Set 1st layer extrusion multiplier to about 130% to get good squish and compensate for nozzle height variability.
Looks l
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
so the bubbles I posts before are due to the ABS not able to span across the gaps.. I have 20% infill, if I did more infill it would probably work better..
Couple parts I am targeting to print will probably be higher infill anyway. but I find it interesting to see that is where the bubble effect is..
As for bottom layers, the print I am doing now has 4 layers.. and the only changes I made wer
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
I will check it out. Going to try printing something less complex today..
Here is a picture of Cura and Prusa slicer prints.. vastly different but I don’t see much difference in settings..
Cura is the top one
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
I have it on advanced mode. Cura seems a bit better for me, last print looked good but poor adherence caused some issues.. I will keep playing with the settings and adjustments.
The printer I am trying this on is essentially a Prusa MK2 with Folgertech frame. I am using prusa firmware as this has a MK42 bed and want to take advantage of that calibration stuff.
The PLA print above came out good
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
So I reset the nozzle to the bed.. I used CURA to slice it.. noticed some issues of holes in spots and stopped it.. bottom was better..
tried the Prusa Slicer build.. got part way through and I saw bad results.. stopped it.
did it again with Cura, but something happened at the roof when I stepped away and it did not finish however it is the best one to date
I am questioning how true my ABS rea
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
I am using Prusa Slicer
.20mm layer thickness
20% infill
maybe this is my problem, a friend on mine likes prusa slicer. maybe i need to try a different one? as I have noticed that the same object will slice and printer different depending on the slicer used'
object is at 0.00
The other thing is the temperature for printing ABS and the temperature rating of the stuff i have is different..
if
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
Hmmm
Spool say it is ABS
I will look to adjust the nozzle to the bed again
by
jdebuhr
-
Printing
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123