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Your question is probably not answerable with any degree of certainty given that you are asking for an explanation of the actions of many individuals and companies. However, there are a couple of advantages that I can see for extruder-mounted strain gauges over piezos.
Piezos are sensitive to both deflection and rate of change, whereas a strain gauge doesn't care about the rate of change (as far
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MJLew
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Tech-Talk
I'm not surprised that Stefan of CNC Kitchen did not include your brilliant extruder in his testing. He has probably never even heard of it. The only place that I've ever noticed discussion of your extruder is this forum, and this forum has become very, very quiet in the last few years. Perhaps you should contact him directly, and send him an extruder to play with. He'll be interested for sure.
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MJLew
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Tech-Talk
I've spent lockdown combining my hobbies of 3d printing and fountain pens and I'm pretty pleased with the results.
The pen is made up of seven 3d-printed parts, each made from a plastic selected for its properties matching the functional requirements of each part, with a small amount of lead ballast in the grip and in the body. The ballast is eccentrically located so that the pen is less likel
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MJLew
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Look what I made!
Wow! What a cool project.
Very few of my projects are ever really done and dusted. Now that you've got it working, are you going to do it again? Improvements? A set mimicking a different airplane?
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MJLew
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Look what I made!
Are those unattached lines the bottom of support structures? If so then you could possibly change the support settings to have them all connect. You might need help from a Prusa Slicer expert...
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MJLew
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Printing
Things to try.
1. Dry the filament. Put it into an oven at 75°C for a couple of hours.
2. Turn the fan on. Low speed only for normal printing with ASA (is the printer enclosed?), but faster while bridging.
3. Turn on retraction.
4. Check the extrusion path in the slicer to make sure that the bridges start well-connected to the bodies. If a bridge run begins at the edge then there is a better ch
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MJLew
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Printing
Well done. I look forward to more reports on how it is working.
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MJLew
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Tech-Talk
1. Silicon tube is too stretchy for use as a Bowden. You need PTFE (which I'm guessing is what you meant to write).
See this site for an extensive set of instructions and files for tuning retraction and other aspects of the printer:
2. I don't know what is going on with the SD card. Can you print from it? Does the slowdown happen?
3. Get a sock; you won't be sorry.
Increase the fan gradually
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MJLew
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Printing
1: Presumably you are using a Bowden setup. Long retractions might be a result of loose fitting of the filament inside the Bowden tube. Some tubes (e.g. Capricorn) are a better fit than most others. They might also result from looseness of the fittings at either end of the tube.
Perhaps try faster retraction rather than longer retraction.
2: I expect that using Proterface means that the communic
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MJLew
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Printing
1: Presumably you are using a Bowden setup. Long retractions might be a result of loose fitting of the filament inside the Bowden tube. Some tubes (e.g. Capricorn) are a better fit than most others. They might also result from looseness of the fittings at either end of the tube.
Perhaps try faster retraction rather than longer retraction.
2: I expect that using Proterface means that the communi
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MJLew
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Printing
Very glad to hear it!
The next step is to find out why you get problems when you print faster. (50% of 15mm/s is very slow...). Maybe check that the pulleys on the motor shafts are firmly secured. Make sure the grubscrews are tight against the shaft flat (assuming you have a flat on the shaft). Many of us use thread locker on the grubscrews. Anyway, it's good that you'r printing!
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MJLew
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Printing
Could the problem be a slipping belt (or pulley) during fast moves? If so then printing at a slow rate would reduce or eliminate the problem.
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MJLew
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Printing
OK, the gcode looks good to me in Simplify3D but I cannot print it as my print bed is only 120mm wide and deep (Voron V0).
I looked at the gcode and there does not seem to be any errant G91 or the like, but I have trouble lining up the G1 moves with the picture of the print. Is the print oriented in the picture like it was on the bed?
The print doesn't look square in the picture, but the Gcod
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MJLew
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Printing
Have you looked at the gcode? Maybe it is setting the origin at several places in the print.
Post your gcode here and I'll see what happens when I print it. If the gcode is not at fault then you'll know to look at the firmware or slicer.
(You could update your Slic3R to the current version 1.3, but I doubt that Slic3R is the cause of your problem.)
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MJLew
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Printing
Elephant's foot can be dealt with in (at least) three ways. First, a small chamfer on the bottom of the gear will allow the foot to be where the gear teeth do not meet. Second, some slicers have a setting that reduces or eliminates elephant's foot (e.g. Prusa Slicer). Third, get a cheap set of needle files and file it off!
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MJLew
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Reprappers
A stepper will make a growling noise and not turn if its wires are connected to the driver in the wrong way, so maybe your wires are crossed.
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MJLew
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Printing
@etfrench MKSA often provides technically correct but totally unhelpful responses. You probably should try to do better.
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MJLew
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Reprappers
It might 'work', but it is unlikely to work well.
Frame rigidity is important so that, for example, the forces applied by the y motor reach only the bed rather than being shared by the bed and frame deformation and so that vibrations do not spoil the accuracy of hotend and bed location. Having no elements to prevent side to side deformation of the frame will allow the left to right movement of t
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MJLew
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Reprappers
If you are unable or unwilling to use a better extruder then perhaps you could print an improved version of the Wade extruder, there are several on Thingiverse, e.g.
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MJLew
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Reprappers
I assume that you are using 0.2mm layers. If it really is 2mm then I have no idea how you are doing it!
I have now searched out your Portabee printer (http://allabout3dprinting.com/portabee-3d-printer/) and I do not see a part cooling fan. Do you have a part-cooling fan? Are you printing PLA? If the answers are no and yes, then you will not be able to achieve a good result because the PLA needs
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MJLew
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Reprappers
Yes, M92 is how to set the esteps, but I expect that you can do it in Marlin firmware configuration as well or instead. (I use reprap firmware and it is set in the config.g file with M92.)
Minor changes in drive tooth tension should not cause significant changes in the esteps.
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MJLew
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Reprappers
Oh, yes, I forgot that not every slicer uses relative E values. Sorry. Maybe your slicer has an option that would give you the setting.
Disabling retractions is a good idea for prints where they are unnecessary, but you will want to be able to retract for many prints. I will note that if the strings are fine then they can be effectively removed with a hot air gun. (Not too hot, and not too long,
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MJLew
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Reprappers
If there are no negative E values and no G10 commands (firmware retraction) then there should be no retractions.
I really think that lubrication is likely to be better than doing without retractions...
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MJLew
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Reprappers
PLA can be lubricated with pretty much anything as it is not damaged by most solvents, so, yes, petroleum jelly would possibly be OK. Note, however, that it will attract dust and grit and that might even accelerate your wear problem.
I sometimes use a PTFE-containing bicycle chain lubricant and it works very well. The PTFE is suspended in a very light oil that evaporates to leave the PTFE behin
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MJLew
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Reprappers
I like it!
Looks like my next upgrading is by braiding.
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MJLew
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General
Do the blobs happen when you use a different slicer? Maybe there is a line of Gcode that causes the micro-stutters.
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MJLew
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Printing