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Printing issues ...
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part 7 - 11 years ago
i guess, this will be the last post for a long time. will leave for a new round tomorrow, than another in october, wintertime with my house-boat, and back home in springtime.
With these 3mm neodymium magnets, step size will be exactly 1mm, i guess.
Using 1/16 microstepping, that would give a resolution of 0.06mm. As i am printing with a 0.5mm nozzle, this might already be enough. Than we could
by
roland
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Developers
part 6 - 11 years ago
look how my concept has evoled over the last view hours and how many new ideas went into it. And than look how many ideas you have contributed. Zero. Nothing. And like 7 years old kids you keep insisting that you are no failures, holding up the holy bible that we should dissemble to each other how special we are.
To start with, we could use extruded H-profile aluminium (5 times cheaper than pla
by
roland
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Developers
part 5 - 11 years ago
want to write it down, so i can forget about..
you forget about absolute positioning. that again is only this christian world of fearfully clinging to control.
With the absolut location at every moment, you also get the speed and the acceleration.
And since Newton, this is enough to caculation the motion.
During initialisation of the reprap, the printhead is moved along all axes to "calculate"
by
roland
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Developers
part 4 - 11 years ago
a high frequency electromagnetic field all along the beams might create a nasty radio interference.
So better a static magnetic field like tiny magnets every 3mm and a high frequency field on the trolley (the replacement for the dc-motor rotating a disc with magnets) that can be shielded.
Now we don't even need the ir-diode/phototransistor
The absolute position can be kept track through the toot
by
roland
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Developers
part 3 - 11 years ago
less then 10 minutes using half of my brain, just to give you toypeople a little glimpse of what you yourself could achieve if you would follow the first two rules.
We don't even need a big gearing.
We can let such a cheap high speed dc-motor rotate a disc with little magnets.
In the bars there will be some wireing that can create a magnetic field.
So instead of driving the motor with pwm, th
by
roland
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Developers
you toypeople are so pitiable.. always only NO.. always only trying to destroy everything new.. and if something finaly is indestructable, then you think it is perfect :-( i am the born loser.. living in the world of failures. If you would have tried to understand my approach, you would already have read the solutions to your counter-arguments in my lines. and you are so stupid to think that i n
by
roland
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Developers
part 2 - 11 years ago
As we will have absolute positioning on all axes, we no longer need the endstops :-)
The trolley might look like this:
And we don't really need optical mouses :-)
Simply an IR-diode and an IR-fototransistor onto the tooth bar.
When the reprap is first initialized, it is moved over the tooth bar and the refelection strength is recorded.
There will be a clear period because of the 3mm or 5mm to
by
roland
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Developers
yes, these linear bearings are quite fragile. i also lost some little steel balls
Already bought one pololu driver and seller sold me an additional thermistor for $5
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
as i just finished my new ABSPrusa , i am still a beginner.
Thinking of printing a smaller reprap for my outdoor life: ..
I think, these heavy never-to-be-replicated stepper motors are a dead end.
Why not use these cheap small dc motors that speed up to 10.000 rpm.
(3.99 Euro, new, 28 Watt, 9 V and 0,65Ncm at 4400 rpm )
When repap will be able to print electric curcuits, we can print such
by
roland
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Developers
somewhere i read, that this thermistor will do:
I think, the 100k-ohm is the important specification. And with the heatbed it doesn't matter that much anyway, i think. I blew hot air with my digital heat gun onto the glass pane, and it worked as well
roland
"the little physicist"
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
> How did you secure them to the board, chips?
Well right now, it is just the weight But i will screw the 5V power regulator into it, than the heat sink will be grounded. On the opposite site, i can secure the dissipator with the two power mosfets. Yet these have to be isolated and i don't have these little plastic isolators in stock.
> I have lost a thermistor.
Like me I have just bo
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
don't need to mention that James did not answer my email
But problem solved
I switched the stepper/endstop connectors to learn that the mechanics is not the problem.
Than google found me another poor guy with the same problem.
Now i have installed a HUGE cooling element on all four stepper driver chips
and happily printed my first pulley
Also want to screw the two mosfets and the power
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
so after three months of dust covering my fully assembled Prusa, i finaly found the happiness to quickly install this Monty Pyhton software. I did not install a new firmware .
Updated my wiki-page with a little software section: reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_thereprapkitstore#the_software
Unfortunately i lost that little thermistor for my heat bed. But luckily i have a digital heat gun to blow 6
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
well.. as i can not print, all i know is that expoy resin sticks to glass but not to PE, PET, PP, ... I allways use that cheap kitchen PE foil to wrap my new stuff into.
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
- About he kapton, any idea about how many layers we should use on the head ?
i don't think this is needed at all with this ABSPrusa.
And you would need 1cm capton for that:
I guess, the 5cm kapton should be put over the glass.
And of course only one layer. Otherwise it would insulate the Bed :-(
Putting kapton around the head can have the same effect :-(
If you would wrap that nice black extr
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
this online "book" might also be helpful:
roland
www.engelGesucht.de
still don't know if i have to (re)install a firmware in order to make the reprap go...
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
you missed the important steps..
(you are right, 80°C is the temperature when neodym magnets start losing their power)
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
Well yes, 5 Watt in 1 meter cable will become noticeably warm.
i will use 1.5mm² cables for the bed. but i think that for the head, the 0.4mm² cables are okay.
from :
QuotePCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).
Printing on top side is safer, works great.
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
MotoBarsteward Wrote:
> on the heater to line up. I will be re- wiring my
> heated bed as the wire supplied for the job is not
> man enough and I'm loosing nearly 2 volts in the
> wires. Consequently drafts and cooling make it
> very difficult to keep the bed at 85 degrees. I
> used 2mm2 speaker wire (soft and flexible) for the
> print head. I shall do the same for the bed.
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
-- I recommend for firmware use Marlin and for a simple host use Pronterface, which has Slic3r built in. Those are the most popular choices at the moment I think.
this looks like trial-and-error to me :-/
and i don't like python. python is no better than perl :-( whoever starts a software with python can not be very clever.
i guess, there is allready a firmware on that solulo-board. i can read
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
there should be a plastic bag with three micro switches and green/black cables already soldered to it.
(in my kit, the micro sd card was missing.)
If the switches are missing indeed, get yourself opto-endstops. they are said to be more precise.
--Any entry point on another wiki for the firmwares, softwares etc ... ?
the heatbed:
and definitely to get the wireing right:
here is how to plug
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
finished with the electronics :-)
found the trick to put a 1k ohm resistor between the green cable and a black one to get the power supply working :-))
the red led on the singubumboard lights up:-)))
did plug in the usb connector and with internet-driver-lookup (windows xp), a usb-serial adapter was installed.
downloaded the reprap-host-software
starting the reprap.bat , the extruder-stepper mak
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
> Re: im a stuck :-(
okay, it was late in the night and was to stupid to correctly use my sliding calliper
i have documented my better way to mount the x- and z-axis into my little wiki page:
ideas welcome.
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
I found a better way for the final step to mount the y- and z-axis.
But that i way i noticed, that the z-axis is not vertical.
i do not understand this. everything is symmetric, yet the bottom end of the two smooth z-rods are about 5mm beside the middle.
i have jigged everything again and again and i simply don't understand it.
As you others followed the instructions on the ABSPrusa-Wiki, maybe y
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
Nearly finished with the mechanics, by now i am really happy with this ABSPrusa :-) Far better details than what is shown in the video tutorial of the original Mendel.
I have started to add some user-know-how to that little wiki page i started:
roland
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
In the AbsPrusa-Wiki, the two steppers are mounted with one nut distance to the upper vertex.
The product photos on the sellers page however show the right one with FOUR nuts in between.
I guess, that way, no x-axis space is lost because of the end-stop below.
I propably will go that way.
roland, ideas welcome.
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
:- - 11 years ago
So today (Germany) i also got my second parcel
Only thing missing: •Micro SD card for stand alone printing.
Not a catastrophy but would still have been nice.
Maybe you others got the little SD, maybe not..
As i do not know how to delete my wiki-page, i changed it into something else:
Ideas welcome.
roland
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
:-) - 11 years ago
great someone told me about this :-)
don't know how to delete my -stub.
maybe someone else can do it.
roland
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
i don't like such threads, where all the little facts get lost.
Made a wiki-page:
and added my problem there. Would be nice if someone would fix it there
roland, bring it to life
by
roland
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General Mendel Topics
at this very moment..
i am developing a small shunt regulator for my new selfmade solar panel.
as mostly, it does not work instantly, and now i am not sure,
whether the circuit is wrong, or a transistor burned :-/
so it really would be like heaven,
if all the transistors go into a chip socket
and the wireing board would be automaticly made by a reprap
based on the schematic diagram :-)
and whe
by
roland
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General
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