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Printing issues ...
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Akhlut, if someone made a design in Solidworks because that is where their skills lie, should they then try to reproduce their finished design in Blender, or OpenSCAD? Or should people designing things for open source avoid solid geometry altogether? Is there a solids based CAD program that would be acceptable for them to design in? If they exported their Solidworks source as Step, would that
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IanJohnson
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General
Does the puller put tension on the plastic at the die to size the wire? Or does it only push out and rest on the bottom of the trough before getting picked up by the roller?
The Filastruder will maintain a close enough tolerance if it just extrudes and lands on the floor or table. If the spooler takes up the filament without lifting it completely off of whatever it landed on, the tension at th
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IanJohnson
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General
I am working on a puller for my Filastruder. The die opening is larger than the filament, and the filament gets stretched down to the needed diameter as it is pulled away toward the spool winder. The puller is a Greg's Wade's extruder mounted sideways, driven by an Arduino Uno. I put a small piece of latex tube over the bolt and tweaked the Wade's to make room for the wider diameter. I didn't
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IanJohnson
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General
The Solidoodle's idlers are pulleys that match the pulleys on the drive rod, so they are toothed idlers I suppose. The pulleys spin on bolts with plenty of lube, rather than being fixed to a rod mounted in a bearing. I would prefer that the tension of the belt be supported by a bearing, so I am wondering if replacing the pulleys with larger 608s would be ok, or if idler ODs need to match the pul
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IanJohnson
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General
Something I've been wondering- does the diameter of an idler bearing have to match the pulley, or does it not make any difference? My Solidoodle uses pulleys freely spinning on a bolt for the Y axis idlers, and I want to replace them with bearings. Would 608s like in the link be ok, or would I need to find a bearing with an OD that matches the pulley?
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IanJohnson
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General
I've come to the conclusion that haul off rollers need to be powered by stepper motor. The slightest variation in speed will affect the diameter of the filament. If a DC motor is used, it should have a high enough gear ratio to the rollers that slight variations in rpm will have a small effect at the rollers.
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IanJohnson
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General
You should be fine without rollers for shaping. It will come out of the nozzle round, at a higher diameter than the nozzle opening due to die swell. The actual diameter will depend on the speed of the auger, the temperature, and how hard it is pulled and stretched out of the nozzle. You can run it cool enough that the plastic is too firm to be shaped or altered within 10-15mm of the nozzle ope
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IanJohnson
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General
I'm going to be building Lyman's Spool Winder to go with my Filastruder . Rather than wind up the filament off the floor, or try to get the uptake speed to exactly match the extrusion speed, I want to use a pair of switches to turn the spooler on and off. As the filament coming out of the extruder begins to droop, it would hit a limit switch that turns on the spooler. As it is spooled, the fil
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IanJohnson
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General
I'm not sure why the extruder needs custom machined rollers. It's not the rollers that shape the filament. They would help maintain consistent tension on the filament coming out of the nozzle and insure it cools straight without bends, but I get within .05mm letting it pile on the floor. I'm going to build Lyman's spooler to go with my extruder, using rollers made from latex tubing filled wit
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IanJohnson
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General
Look into KISSlicer. It has 1 step below 0 fill which is vase mode Vase leaves the top off.
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IanJohnson
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Printing
The closest free thing you will find to Agisoft is Autodesks 123D Catch. Actually it's best to have Photoscan and Catch. I've had things that turn out better in Photoscan, and other things that Catch does better. At $180 Photoscan is comparatively cheap and well worth the price.
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IanJohnson
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General
They are catching up, the amount of time people are waiting has dropped from 20 weeks to 16 in the last month or so. They got a late start because there were so many orders in the first few weeks that they had to move to a bigger space, create an assembly line, order more parts and hire 40-60 people before they could start getting them out the door. They spent the whole summer learning how to o
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IanJohnson
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General
It's a little hard to figure out who to avoid. Generally the best suppliers are Ultimachine, Protoparadigm, Makerbot, Makergear. They have the best, most consistent reputations. The others, mostly on Amazon, also can be good, but are a little more inconsistent. You hear both positive and negative reviews, and it often varies depending on color.
The most problematic color is usually black.
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IanJohnson
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General
The flow rate is correct. I have an Extrusion Multiplier of .89, and when I print a single wall with a .42 thread width, I get a .40-.42 wall. I had been getting a little gapping in top solid layers, so I reduced the nozzle diameter to .33 to get the threads closer together. Would that have any effect in the outer perimeter?
Simba, how fast do you think travel would need to go to be as effect
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IanJohnson
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General
This is with ABS, and Slic3r 097. 097 has some bugs, one of which seems to be that is it randomizing starting points, even though that option is unchecked. That's why there are blobs all around, though if it wasn't randomizing, I expect the resulting seam would still be raised a fair amount. Here are 4 prints with 097. From the bottom the retraction lengths are .1, .25, .5 and 1. The 1mm ret
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IanJohnson
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General
I've been getting a few prints where moves from the perimeter leave a blob followed by a gap, in Slic3r. I'm guessing this is a retraction issue, but which way should I go with it? The settings are 1.5mm distance, 45mm/s speed, no restart. I can't remember if Z lift was on, if so it would have been .25. It's a direct drive extruder, which can move the filament up and down at that speed, though
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IanJohnson
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General
My E steps and flow rates are calibrated so that single walled cubes give me the right extrusion width +/- .02mm. However when I print solid cubes, or anything with a solid top layer for that matter, the threads aren't quite meeting up. This happens in Skeinforge, KISSlicer, and less often in Slic3r. In Slic3r, linear solid infill is correct, but concentric is slightly gappy. I can turn the n
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IanJohnson
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General
The extruder is a direct drive, 200 steps/rev at 16x microstepping running on an Azteeg with Suresteppr drivers. I was thinking that maybe it is due to the resolution of the extruder motor, that there are few enough steps to see some pulsing in extrusion. However other direct drive printers like Replicator don't seem to exhibit this. So maybe there is some interaction with XY movement. Any
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IanJohnson
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Printing
I've found when checking my steps on X that the moves are good to within .02mm at the right side of the printer. If I turn the dial gauge around and measure against the other side, the moves tend to be .1mm too long. The moves are spot on for Y at the front of the printer, but due to the design of the mount and the extruder, I can't test it against the back. I suspect that there may be inconsi
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IanJohnson
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Printing
I don't think it would be the difference between shrinkage of a cylinder and a cube, since my problem is diagonal dimensions being too long. Also the two cubes were the same shape, but printed at different orientations on the bed, One was straight on X and Y, with perfect dimensions. The one printed at a 45 degree turn had dimensions that were too long on one diagonal.
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IanJohnson
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Printing
My steps/mm are dialed in on X and Y, moves are accurate to within .05mm. Also I have elimated backlash from X and Y as well, no more than about .03mm as measured with a dial gauge. 20mm squares come out to 19.98-20.01. However I noticed that whenever I did a cylinder, there would be a bulge to it, as much as .5mm. Like the cubes, the dimensions would be correct straight up X and Y but too la
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IanJohnson
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Printing
Slic3r often generates infill that has no hope of sticking to the bed without a raft. I hate peeling rafts off of prints, but I would appreciate a raft for support option that surrounds the print without going under it.
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IanJohnson
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General
I don't mention Cura since it is a front end for SF50. That's probably what I'll be using since it runs SF faster using PyPy.
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IanJohnson
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General
I would like to test several slicers and try to get demonstrations of their various strengths and weaknesses. I'll run a set of models through each one, with settings that are as identical as possible. I'm thinking of comparing Skeinforge 50, Skeinforge 39, Slic3r 0.9.3, Slic3r 0.7.2b, and KISSlicer. I'm looking for suggestions of models to use that represent various challenges that slicers ha
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IanJohnson
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General
The thermistor isn't optional, the printer will refuse to operate without one. There is no way to control the temperature without measuring it. That includes the bed, you want a set temperature, not just turn the bed on and let it get as hot as it can. The third thermistor is optional, since you might not have a second extruder. (If you have an X3)
If you ordered a thermistor bundled with th
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IanJohnson
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General
You will probably need an intermediate step from that STL to gcode, because the model that Chief Architect exports is not suitable for printing. The walls are hollow, and there are a lot of intersecting planes. To start with, you should make a version of your plan that has the simplest walls possible, because it creates a plane for every siding, insulation, wall covering, floor covering, etc.
Y
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IanJohnson
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General
Is there only one Chinese factory? I know there is PLA from Esun, are they providing all the ABS too? I know there are several sellers showing the same spool type as Repraper. Is it safe to assume they are from the same source? Does anyone know what that is? It seems it would be more useful to review filament from a manufacturer rather than a seller, if many are selling the same filament. I
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IanJohnson
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General
I had been thinking of switching it out with an Azteeg X1, so this was a push to actually do that.
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IanJohnson
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General
I lost power to my Sanguinololu. I thought the cable might have a break or something, and when I took it out I found that the block had melted-
Is there something I could have done to cause this? In addition to the motors, it runs a heated bed, LEDs, an electronics fan, extruder fan, and gcode controlled nozzle fan (using Nophead's hack with the logic level MOSFET)..
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IanJohnson
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General
Would I need to include G92 E0 as well? Or would it be okay to run both gcodes with relative extrusion?
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IanJohnson
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General
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Pages: 12345