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Printing issues ...
OmNomProject,
I have been inputing relevant items into the PTPG page PTPG using the guidelines noted on the webpage and then copy & paste the blank entry from the top of the edit page to the relevant section. It is a time consuming manual process. Help would be appreciated.
by
rrr7
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Printing
There are at least a few different types of contamination that have been documented in filament. See (the in-work) PTPG if interested.
by
rrr7
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Printing
I believe we can name names for legitimate quality issues with appropriate caution (correct me if I am wrong). We owe it to each other to be certain of sources and not pass on hear-say though and I would say we should require several instances and giving the vendor/manufacturer an opportunity to make it right before concluding that there is a continuing trend and labelling a source as "poor qual
by
rrr7
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Printing
serkanc,
Who was the manufacturer and supplier of this filament for reference?
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rrr7
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Printing
The wiki still rejects edits that require confirmations and adding pictures to the database.
by
rrr7
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General
Yes, in the forum I linked to above most agreed it was some kind of a server issue.
by
rrr7
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General
Actually I just added a fan for my printer too and I run PLA but the fan is for the printed part near the nozzle, not the thermal isolator. I did not need the fan to print PLA, and have printed many parts successfully without it. I thought about adding some cooling air to the isolator, but have not as yet.
Especially in small parts or features, the heat builds up and the part fails in a gooey m
by
rrr7
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Printing
Yes, I find 1/8inch drill bit (3.175mm) works fine with PLA from 175 up to 194 C for me. I made my own extruder after extensive reading and it worked from the first time I tried it. My solid PTFE insulator is 1.5 inch long. I only had one jamb when I left my hot end heated for 30 minutes without extruding at all. My new rule is 15 min max at full temp without extruding (20 min still ok but cl
by
rrr7
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Printing
I found this forum where they discussed this same issue:
google.com/recaptcha
They suggest mostly 2 things- updating site code to circumvent DNS or host admin request to open port. Others say the problem came and went without action by them.
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#49:
"From what I can tell, the problem comes from the system not being able to resolve a host name."
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by
rrr7
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General
also having trouble uploading pics, it gives me this error:
"Error creating thumbnail: /usr/bin/convert: error while loading shared libraries: libtiff.so.3: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory"
clarification: I uploaded .png, .gif and .jpg pictures, but it displayed this error (above) in stead of the image where it was linked.
I have uploaded a bunch of pics and added links
by
rrr7
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General
Today the reprap site wiki does not want to accept edits that include a website reference and requires authentication by ReCaptcha for me. After an edit adding a website reference, it fails to accept the change and says “Could not open socket”. I have never seen this before. It accepts text edits though. Any thoughts?
by
rrr7
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General
Glad you are back up.
see thread on same issue:
by
rrr7
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Printing
Glad to hear you are back up.
read also thread for same issue:
by
rrr7
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Printing
Infodude,
Thanks for trying to enter data into PTPG, yeah it is kind of a pain.
This is the right forum, Probably needed its own thread for enough info for me to use.
Those pics are a little too fuzzy this time, but thanks anyway. Many people get too close with their camera or phone for the focal length limit of the lens, try backing up a couple of feet and use a zoom if you have it. I even use
by
rrr7
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Printing
Thanks, I put a couple pics in.
You are welcome to add/edit content to the PTPG as you think it may help others too.
by
rrr7
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Printing
oh, that is an odd one.
I never heard of that before, although many instances of bad quality filament. That would explain a lot. Please let me know if you can verify the contamination source. Include manufacturers, vendors and as many details as possible and I will put the info on the print troubleshooting pictorial guide.
by
rrr7
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Printing
First thought is to verify the nozzle is heating to the temp it should be, oozing is a good indication, else stick a piece of plastic (ABS in your case) against it when hot to verify it is getting hot enough.
When you said that you replace the hot end, did you mean the entire hot end?
Here is a thought: The thermal isolator bore can get deformed and expanded internally when hot in a region afte
by
rrr7
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Printing
Oh, that does not sound right...
I will take a stab at it-
Well if you are sure that the thermistor is the correct type and that the software is correctly configured for it, then it sounds like a physical obstruction to heat flow from the heater block to the thermistor or an electrical short or high resistance in the leads to the thermistor.
Did you check that the thermistor is in direct contact
by
rrr7
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Printing
Well, pic gallery results look better now.
But it could still use some kind of automation if anyone knows how to implement that or even if it is possible or not in wiki text?
That could speed up data entry if it is available.
The page is basically up and running now. It just needs more data entries.
Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
Thanks for everyone's suggestions and help!
by
rrr7
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Printing
Well, pic gallery results look better now.
But it could still use some kind of automation if anyone knows how to implement that or even if it is possible or not in wiki text?
Thanks,
by
rrr7
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Developers
Traumflug,
Thanks for working on it, I tried some variations of picture formatting from here icture_tutorial" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">wikipedia, and had some good results, but ended up doing something odd and combining the left sidebar text and graphics with the template somehow.
I think I got it set back the same way it was earlier today when you left it.
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rrr7
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Printing
I would appreciate it if someone could give me some wiki help in improving the new wiki page print troubleshooting pictorial guide.
The last couple of entries here forum describe where I am trying to go with this.
If you know wiki and templates, I could use the help. Just pointing me to a page that has the answer would do it, or tweak a little code- whichever is fine.
Thanks,
by
rrr7
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Developers
I discovered "gallery" in wiki code and thought it should align the pics better, but I am having trouble implementing it in the template. It does not want to accept the image file name variables {{{name.jpg}}} from the calling page.
Any suggestions?
by
rrr7
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Printing
started a page http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
I'm still learning to hand code and format pages in wiki and templates.
I would like help to make it automatic to add new entries still though, does anyone know how to do this?
Also, could the tables be edited directly on the page without going to the 'page edit' sheet?
(edit: corrected link title to lower caps)
(ed
by
rrr7
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Printing
Those prints look very nice, congratulations-except for the small flaw you are asking about.
I have a similar issue, let me guess- is it only on the one side that is printed first after the z move? My test cube was showing that because the extruder was oozing during the z move, leaving a bulge and then when it went to print the first side afterwards, it was short on plastic but would recover w
by
rrr7
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Printing
Yes, I agree that it sounds like the symptoms of stepper skipping. It could also be a mechanical cause of stepper skipping, as in binding or too much friction. I had to rework my bed several times to get the friction and binding out.
by
rrr7
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Printing
Ok, I put together a document showing what I think the wiki webpage should look like (sorry, I did not html code it in case you were wondering). The format is what I am suggesting with the rough categories that I can think of. Keep in mind, most of the content will need to be filled in.
I am asking for comments if you think it is ready to go live. (two formats of the same file for your conveni
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rrr7
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Printing
kug,
Just a hint: I built a coffee can tumbler a couple of decades ago with several beads of silicone for ribs to make the stuff tumble inside to clean brass casings. I used it for years and still have it. I would suggest using a plastic can in stead as the abrasive medium continually abrades the metal can surface and discolors the medium and may add unwanted color (contamination) to the fine c
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rrr7
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General
plexus,
not a bad start.
(so far that site has about a page of info with 3 pictures total.)
With the amount of data that we have in this wiki, this one can be really fantastic!
by
rrr7
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Printing
I think what Plygonhell is talking about is the skirt layer is not the same width as it goes around the shape indicating that the bed may not be perpendicular to the print head. Check that the nozzle is the same distance from the bed in all 4 corners for this. You can use a piece of paper to test the gap to the nozzle, and it should be the same everywhere.
I noticed you said you were using PLA,
by
rrr7
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Printing