Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
How so much questions:
So first:
I'm planning to drawing/making an easy and fast quick change tool head with:
- 1bowden and nozzle + Z auto probe + 2 fan duct (cool nozzle and print for small part)
- 2bowden and nozzle + 2 fan duct (same)
- 1 small cnc cutting motor for pcb milling + ( vacuum tube)
- 1 direct drive motor mount with nozzle. + 2 fan duct (same)
With some good engeneering and sm
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
Thanks,
I will try to make a movie, but only when I will be the winner against Marlin or Repetier!
Marlin don't like X and Y max endstop with Hbelt system, I have hardware so i want the feature
And Repetier don't like min feedrate,and my poor "not finished" extruder jams when it's extrude at less than 30mm/s ... So i will play with EXT0_MAX_START_FEEDRATE ...
a special thanks to Repetier fo
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
So I have updated all the files on github:
This printer work really well, rigid frame, fast, perfect for 3D printer, and I think it's no bad for light milling.
For the moment I have just printed 2-3 stuff, because the nozzle support is in progress and not really good....
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
I will publish it on github near my old Hbot printer file, I think it's a good place for that.
Yes I hesitate now that I have seen the really good performance, to mount a bowden extruder like on the current setup, or mounting a direct drive extruder on the carriage...
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
Yes speed and accel have been tested with a stepper motor on the carriage, (last photo on the first post). it's was a simple nema17 40mm longer.
Normally is all go right, I will put the printer ready to print for the Week-end.
For me, the more I use and see my new printer, the more I like it
The only downside is that it's not so cheap with 10 gt2 idler pulley + 2 gt2 motor pulley when I compar
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
How is performing ... my bowden setup worked pretty well (around 99.9% reliable), my Z system was perfect for my use, and the ramps/rasperry/octoprint/wifi is a perfect setup
And for the news coreXY axis system, it's has only 4-5 hours of dry run without reassembly of the nozzle/Ymin-max contact, air tube etc...
The speed is 350mm/s max, it's the stepper and arduino limit frequency not the fram
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
Yes you right, the cost is a good benefit, but there in France, procuring fishing line is really easy compared to no-backlash belt.
There is no problem with flat and tooth pulley with fishing line, you have no problem with backlash, almost no elongation, easy to make a home-made system for tightening the line.
Only 6 months before,i can't purchase at all 2meters of GT2 belt for less than 60€ w
by
zelogik
-
Reprappers
FYI, I have used fishing line for more than 1000hours of printing, with only one fail. This fail have occured only on the second print and because the fishing line was too small and too tightened for its size.
After that,and with bigger fishing line (0.5mm diameter), many print with time more or less than 20hours have been succefully finished without any problems.
I only wanted to change from f
by
zelogik
-
Reprappers
@Aduy: I have seen that the play we can have in bearing with the time is enought to have a less ridig frame.
Now my only concern is how well iglidur bush will last for X/Y axis. Because I have bad review/history with hardened rod vs cheap lm8uu...
And I prefer to change 8pcs of really cheap igludur (100pc at 0.15/pc is cheap for me ) more often and only that, than lm8uu and hardened rod because
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
Hello,
Many time I don't have post there, the last time was to show link, solidworks file, and somes pictures of my own HBot printer.
After 1year with very good result with my printer, some noise appear because the lm8uu don't like moment force. And so, make some groove on my hardened steel rod. But atfer near than 1000hours of printing i think it's "almost" normal. So for me a refurbishment/r
by
zelogik
-
CoreXY Machines
It's more noisy that a 40mm fan for sure. But i think the fan is too big for the silicon tubing size, so there is some perturbation at entrance who produce this noise.
But the noise is less annoying than the stepper frequency of motor.
I can now print with PLA. With fan and heatsink i can only extrude 10mm of pla before jamming. Now there is no jam anymore with pla :-)
So there is a full met
by
zelogik
-
General
Ok, so stupid idea, I can remove from my head :-D
Thanks you!
by
zelogik
-
General
Hello,
I have an idea today for make Big printer part, and with less warping problems maybe and more strong final part.
There is anybody who have try to filling a printed part with some epoxy or polyvinyle or different resine ?
You print the part with only perimeter (outside and inside perimeter), no infill at all, very good bridging capability, make an small hole on your finish part, and fill
by
zelogik
-
General
What I have seen with my setup, is that one Fan blowing directly over the Stainless Steel Barrel is not enought efficient for keep a low temperature on it, I had to install heatsink on the barrel to have a better cooling (Like almost all full metal hotend doing now)
Now with this "small" box with fresh air flow , I don't need heatsink anymore. And i don't have experienced any jam on the nozzle f
by
zelogik
-
General
Before I have thinking to make this setup with big and put everything inside: (like you have said)
But enter and exit are more difficult to draw with nice design. (ABS/Electrical/Air flow ....)
The most important is that I don't need heatSink on the stainless steel Barrel now, I think the cooling is really more efficient because you take fresh air and not "hot" air from the heated bed, I don't
by
zelogik
-
General
Hello,
You have maybe already seen my own hbot 3D printer. In the case I want a full heated enclosure, cooling nozzle is not really efficient with simple Fan, and no efficient barrel cooling making always nozzle jams/problems .....
So the most common idea for the moment is watercooling... but water and electronic is not really pleasant for me, and you need pump, water tubing etc...
So If we can
by
zelogik
-
General
Look for 'wobble' there are many posts with responses to your problem. :-)
by
zelogik
-
Printing
Yes i like the concept. Very nice project.
But i have some doubt with 'precision' because a small gap in 'pivot' mouvement have many influence on the theorical position.
Indeed, it's always fun to see new idea/concept :-)
by
zelogik
-
General
Yes it's not cheap at all for a reprap, but for a full enclosed machine that look like a "real" printer the price is almost correct.
And the quality for the white part is really bad even because it's printed with support.
The hotend look like the same we found on eBay too.
And the max speed is low, it's only 80mm/s.
I just wanting to know if the full enclosure is a good thing with warping.
by
zelogik
-
General
Hello,
It's not my action at all but with doing some searching on ebay I have found that:
China 3D printer
...
by
zelogik
-
General
Today I have made some change, DRV8825 from Reprapdiscount, and 1/8 microstep, so the theorical precision is 0.02mm (not so bad for my use), and the maximum speed before the firmware/electronic bottleneck is 500mm/s :-D
And I have changed the arcol v2 drive gear for a mk7 clone from ebay for the filament, because I have somes problems with the arcol ...
I think 500mm/s is not so bad with fishin
by
zelogik
-
General
@crispy: Have you tried to push your patch for this worse bug to the main repository of Marlin?
by
zelogik
-
General
Yes i have try marlin two week ago, but there is a strange bug in x/y when you try to print non symetric parts.
And somebody know the max frequency pulse/step atrduino with pololu can reach?
I can't find anywhere good answers.
Because i think the "bloquage" at 200mm/s i have can be that.
10.5mm pulley, 1/16 ustep, 1.8deg motor, if my math are correct, i'm near to 20khz pulse for 200mm/s.... I m
by
zelogik
-
General
This version working well, but i don't think there are all news features from the last marlin
by
zelogik
-
General
@aduy: Yes the concept is interesting but I think you need to be carefull with gap and backlash. (more pulley ...)
ie: I have changed the dyneema with real dyneema 100lb and I made a dry run since more than 50hours without any problems for the movement in X/Y axis, I thinks the problem was too much tension and misalignement of pulley the last time..
by
zelogik
-
General
So as promise...
Github folder,
-So there are some solidworks files (2012) for XY axe with stl, and for some accessoires.
-Inventor 2012 files for "Z axe" and stl.
And yes git rocks on Linux ;-)
by
zelogik
-
General
@billyzelsnack: yes i have understand that, but I not sure the gain you can maybe add with the "racking force" is better when you see the complexity/misalignement when you cross the belt/line...
@maddox: Too much for the first test, after a printing of 20hours long for the Big Yoda, the dyneema line have break. The dyneema (clone), was to small, (50lb/0.36mm), and there was a misalignement of th
by
zelogik
-
General
I have only 50lb, error when I have ordered.. So i need to change it maybe.
@sublime: Yes thank you (for idea and tantillus) or maybe not( for the time I have passed since 3months)... Your tantillus is incredible, just the build area is too small for me....
by
zelogik
-
General
OK I will try to look for github the next week.
And its an hbot, not a core xy, I need to found the advantage of corexy instead of simple h-bot.
by
zelogik
-
General