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Printing issues ...
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ok it looks like your getting better result.
But its weird because it looks like your still having problems getting enough plastic on the next layer.
are you sure that if you tell your z axis to move 10mm it will go 10mm? maybe press the button several times gives you a better average. and or did you check your extruder and filament width? i use slicer and after a couple of calibration checks i
by
Weedz
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Printing
i dont know what kind of nozzle you are using, but if its J-head then set the nozzle size fgrom 0.5 to 0.4 just to test. some software have a recalculation for nozzle size, dont ask me why but they when you fill in 0.5 for nozzly diameter the actually think you are using 0.58 or something. so try lowering that.
and why the small steps testing layer hight, try to set it to 0,2 you will not mess a
by
Weedz
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Printing
just to add my 2 cents on that video with the lipstick. When you move your extruder that slow only one way it has probably going right. Problem with printing is that you are loading unloading filament fast and much. so probably during print it will come of some time, the grubscrew is pretty abligated in this design....
also that looks like not the main reason like others tell you aswell. The hob
by
Weedz
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General Mendel Topics
hmm ok didnt think of that.... :-P
by
Weedz
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General
maybe he wants to know how wide a spoolholder has to be for a certain amount (weight ) of filament......
by
Weedz
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General
my question is: is it really save to wire up your nozzle heater up to the flatcable? because i have some IDE flatcable laying around should that work then?
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Weedz
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General
i get 114meters
but you have to take in account that every spool is different. Al manufactures say they get 3.0 +-0.1 mm so a spool diameter maybe 3.1 or 2.9 then you get a length between 122.1 m and 106.8 m
by
Weedz
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General
you can (if you dont find it in theUK) go to hotends.com
he sells the tubing per inch for a fair price i think and shipping cost are fairly low.... only drawback is you have to wait a little....
by
Weedz
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General
that sounds like a plan!
by
Weedz
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General
use an old (or new) creditcard to apply the tape.
put a small piece on your heatbed, really smosh it with the creditcard. then use the creditcard to aplly the rest and hold with the other hand the tape from the. works like a charm but a little fiddly to align every piece of tape....
by
Weedz
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General
for 3mm its approx 90 meters per kg but depends a little on the filament.
you can calculate it fairly easy tho
calculate the volume of the filament per meter and multiply it by density of PLA or ABS that will give you a weight per meter
by
Weedz
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General
IMHO the 1,75mm filament does not give you extra resolution this is done by nozzle diameter.
the only advantage i can think of is nozzle pressure with 3mm thick filament you will need more presure true a smaller nozzle size, next to that is offcourse the speed that is needed in your extruder, i can imagin that at some point you are at the lowest point of good extrusion and printing with for ex.
by
Weedz
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General
NelsonRap Wrote:
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> Nope I swap them at the end of a print as they
> need to cool before the prints will lift off
sounds logical i am not arrived at that state, as with the pla heating the bed up to 60- 65 C it cools down pretty fast and is reheated pretty fast.
So thats a good tip to take then several pieces of glass.
but the real
by
Weedz
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General
you have 2 pieces of glass on top of them ?
so the tickness has resulted in the cracking? also i remember that the back side was painted so that could prolly cause it...
so 3mm will not brake that fast
by
Weedz
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General
Hi guys
i had a nice mirror attached to my heatbed it was a littl heavy for its use (around5mm thick) and i got some backlash from it. So it was in my thoughts to remove it and get something else instead, but for the time being it worked.....
yes you are reading it worked, as for my first practice with ABS (was printing PLA) i raised the printbed to 100 degrees, as lower temps didnt really sti
by
Weedz
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General
cool tnx
i have ordered the fan MOSFET driver thingi from his ebay, should be here in a week or so then ill try it.
tnx for all the help so far
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Weedz
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General
Yeah i saw that the thingyverse about the MOSFET was updated first time i saw it, it was only a MOSFET picture with some discription about how to build it. Now it has some instruction on how to connect it aswell so that is super!
So thats gonna bee first action :-)
but then next how to control it by Gcode, Sam you say you dont have experience with Slic3r but do you know how to run it in skeinf
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Weedz
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General
yeah i know relay wasnt the best word to chose, i was meaning to say mosfet.... and the link provided was exactly what i saw and can use but how to connect it to Sanga
i have a fan now working but its always on or always off, I wanted to have a fan working, but Gcode adjusted with for example bridging. But i want a clear picture if its possible and how because i dont have the expert knowledge ho
by
Weedz
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General
but isnt there a way for the other pins that are on the Sanga to provide a on/off switch for fan operation?
i mean on a sanga board (and maybe thats the noob within me) there a lot of free pins on the bottem end.. why are they there if they can't be used, and if not a fan what can be controlled by it. A mosfet circuit can be made outside of the sanga board right? i have seen one on thingyverse.
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Weedz
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General
Hi all
Let me first say that i researched this quite a bit but never found a clear anser about it. only bits and peaces who dont really fit together. I was hoping to find a how2 but its probably not there or im just too stupid to find it.... (clearly not hoping that last option)
i know its possible to operate a cooling fan to a sanga1.3 but how?, im not really a noob but im not a expert. so i h
by
Weedz
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General
ok tnx for the replys....
in the mean time i found what i was looking for, i got a special relay print designed for the sanga from my dutch supplier.
by
Weedz
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General
Hello
Im getting my heatbed soon, but i dont want to kook up to the sanga board directly. so i hear ppl saying to get a relay to get the stress of, my question is would a relay of this kind work?
its a bit overpowered maybe, but else what kind of of the shelf relay would work? pref cheap
by
Weedz
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General
looka like your printing is doing just fine without the bed, i would say leave it LOL
no but seriously...
check your settings in slic3r also its set probably to a bigger bed size or the midpoint stated in the settings is not really the midpoint of your bed....
mid point of my bed for example is 100x and 70y so in pronterface or whatever you are using it looks like the middle but it actually sta
by
Weedz
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Printing
nb99 Wrote:
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> 300mm/s and normally it goes like 150mm/s
>
> You might have an exceptional machine, but it
> might be worth also trying it at something like 40
> mm/s, then working it back up til you find its max
> working speed.
well its set in pronterface to 300mm as standerd so i dont think i have a really exceptional
by
Weedz
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General
well i measured that offcourse from the top end so what is going in the extruder. but i only did it with a short length of filament. Ill check tomorrow to use longer piece for measurement. But stil when i push extrude in pronterface i see plastic coming out when i print, i dont see anything when i set multiplyer on 15 it looks like its going fast enough (approx) so i will have done something wron
by
Weedz
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General
hi all
im just in the making of my first object yeah
i calibrated all but im obviously looking to the wrong thing.
i have build a mendel like printer and im using sanguinololu board with sprinter firmware, i calibrated all axis to a point that it is reasonable but im dying to do my first print. S dimensions are not really my biggest consirn right now.
My extruder is set to print nicely 10 m
by
Weedz
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General
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