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Printing issues ...
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a_shorething Wrote:
> That's awesome. So you already got those items
> for that price? How is the quality?
Estimated delivery on kickstarter is August, it's still July......
I signed up in the last few days, and they were pledged 1400% ( 14 times their goal) so I know I'm at the back of the line. These guys must be working 24/7, with 1300 extruders to ship, I'll be patient.
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Dad911
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General
I backed it. So far I have received timely updates, great communications, and in one of the emails, Chelsea even provided a list of 'extra' items that will be included, like Kapton tape & insulation. I get emails about once a week, since I backed it.
2 hot-ends, 2 extruders, 2 steppers, with shipping, for $98. Paid about the same for a single J-head, hobbed bolt, stepper, and Greg's print
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Dad911
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General
I think you will find it much easier to use steppers for the Z & extruder also.
I've used Sprinter, Marlin, and now Repetier and they are all easy to set up with steppers.
Otherwise you would need to buy/build a servo-motor type driver that inputs step & dir, and add encoders on the motors for position.
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Dad911
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
cluso99 Wrote:
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......
> Initially I am not using a heated bed ........
> I think that 3mm ABS may be best to start with.......
>.......
I was frustrated with ABS until I added the heated bed.
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Dad911
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General
Silicone wire like this is very flexible:
But I found the wire from computer ps is holding up ok.
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Dad911
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Controllers
Using Slic3r? I found setting the nozzle size to .3, ( ) and a minimum layer time of 15 seconds (cooling tab) really helped my prints.
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Dad911
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Printing
FYI, I used 4 short pieces, about 3/8" long, of silicone tubing instead.
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Dad911
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General
Benjamin Engel Wrote:
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...... I've tried printing at a few different
> temperatures i had it at 240c before, then i moved
> it up to 250c so that i could at least get a
> little bit of plastic to come out. But once i got
> it up to 250c it melted its self. What am i doing
> wrong?
I'm a rookie at this, and possibly quite lucky
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Dad911
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General
I used slicer 8.4.
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Dad911
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Slic3r
Printed. Sorry, I don't use Pronterface, but I used: ABS, Greg's with .35 J-Head, Slic3r, Repetier host & frimware
Small block I measured at 10.0mm wide, slot is 9.75, but I can force it in.
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Dad911
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Slic3r
Are you comfortable around a soldering iron?
If so, I'd look at Gen7, Ramps & Sanguinololu.
If not, you can also get Ramps & Sanguinololu assembled. Check this thread:
Even though I've been swinging a soldering iron since the 70's, I went with a Gen6 for my first system. Decent electronics, noisy & lacks heated bed support, but I wanted to get the system up and running as quickl
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Dad911
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Controllers
Well, here is my semi-succesful attempt. Tried the last two weeks, but couldn't finish the prints. Inspired by the above (and stubborn) I finally got some good parts.
The Parts:
Assembled:
and the reject pile (most from tuning) you can see herringbone gears, as an attempt to adjust the 'stringing' I was getting, I swapped my extruder gears to herringbone, but still could not print multiple p
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Dad911
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Competitions
GITRDUN Wrote:
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.........
> So is this an issue or does it not really matter
> that the resistor and thermistor are not secured
> in an air tight hole?
On my J-head I wrapped the resistor with a strip of aluminum foil until it fit snug. Both the resistor and thermistor are held in with kapton tape, has been working fine.
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Dad911
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General
Here is a great guide for calibrating the extruder(thanks richrap):
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Dad911
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Printing
falkenhausen Wrote:
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> I have another question about the production of
> the machine itself: On the wiki it says that there
> are different thicknesses of the cuts for the
> threaded rod that I could use, does that mean I'm
> cutting the grooves myself, or am I purchasing a
> pre-machined rod?
While you could thread it with
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Dad911
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General
falkenhausen Wrote:
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> Hello and greetings!
>
> I am interested in joining the 3D printing
> community, either just to expand the community and
> give it one more person's worth of drive, or to
> design some parts of my own and hopefully improve
> upon what's here! However, since I don't have
> ~$1000USD to throw at a
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Dad911
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General
I'm new at this, only a few weeks, but currently using Slic3r, Repetier host & firmware, on a self-designed machine (uses 8020 extrusions), J-head, Gen6 electronics, heated bed, ABS.
Not getting perfect prints, but I'm very happy with the results so far.... improving daily..... and planning an upgrade to Sanguniololu to control the bed.
I haven't found a need to print a raft.
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Dad911
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General
Sorry Keukpa, I had a typo.... I set my nozzle size in slicer to .30 not .35
I'm a newbie at this, but to my undertrained eye it looks like it's still extruding too much filament.
What are your current slic3r settings?
Did you calibrate the extruder steps ? Here is a great guide(thanks richrap):
Based on Sublime's report on the above thread: "When doing a free air extrusion with a 0.5mm no
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Dad911
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Reprappers
For slicer and J-head, try this:
I set my nozzle size to .30 even though I have a .35.
Have you measured the diameter of the extruded filament?
(edited, typo nozzle size)
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Dad911
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Reprappers
Your tardis will be much better after calibration.....
If it's a J-head read this:
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Dad911
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Reprappers
Before you print, you NEED to set the firmware for steps per mm on x,y, & z (don't guess, use calculator at )
and set the Extruder steps:
Then set the z endstop and level the bed.
If you are using the J-head, read this:
I found the same as Sublime, changing nozzle size to .3 instead of .35 resulted in better J-head prints.
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Dad911
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Reprappers
You also need a Hot-End. I bought the J-head from makerfarm, if you order it with your kit, you'll save shipping. I also bought ABS from him, send an email and he'll sell a few different colors by the pound. Excellent service, and quick shipping.
Which motor model#? Some of those are not suitable.
You'll also want Kapton tape, and a heated bed if you print ABS.
RegionX Wrote:
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Dad911
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General
Molex connector rated for 8 amps, Screw terminals 10.5.
I am now using 2 pc power supplies, one for the Gen6 electroics, a second directly connected to heated bed, and the wires running to the heated bed are too warm for me, so I don't want a single 12v line/PC power supply powering both the electronics and heated bed.
I am also probably going to switch to a single, non-atx, 25-30amp dedicated
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Dad911
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General
From a 'cost' perspective, all of the boards use similar parts, same stepper drivers, so they should all be about the same $$ to make. Ramps slightly more because you would be buying an arduino board, plus the add-ons. I have a GEN6, but it lacks heated bed support, and I am using ABS, so the bed is always on.
As Mazaw points out, I prefer screw terminals also, even though I'm currently using
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Dad911
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General
I know this doesn't help. but I've run over a pound of black abs from makerfarm (and 1/2 pound red & natural) through my j-head (.35 nozzle) in the last few weeks.
My temp fluctuation is less that 5c also.
When I put it together, the resistor was 'loose' so I wrapped it with aluminum foil until it was a tight fit. Could yours be loose? That could explain temp fluctuation.
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Dad911
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Reprappers
Nozzle catches/drags in the cold plastic? Does it happen more if you print multiple parts as opposed to a single part?
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Dad911
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General
I didn't buy the complete kit, but I bought my extruder, Jhead, filament and electronics from makerfarm.com. Excellent quality and service, he typically answers emails within minutes.
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Dad911
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General
I use .2 with my .35 j-head.
Don't give up. My first few prints went well, leading to a false sense of security...... then I had a bunch of crappy results, all because I skipped the calibration steps.
I found that bed levelling and getting the z-endstop right is extremely critical. Once I straighted that out, and went though Richrap's slicer series, things went much better:
by
Dad911
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General
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