I wouldn't try to do that. I wouldn't try to go any bigger than it already is. Too much moving mass in the Y axis. If i were building a cartesian machine that had a 600 x 600 bed, I'd probably look at CoreXY or similar design with the bed only moving in the Z axis.by the_digital_dentist - General
I know what volumetric extrusion is and use it all the time. What is "max" volumetric extrusion?by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
A hot-end is the part of the extruder that melts the filament. Starting at the bottom and working upward, it has a nozzle attached to a heater block, a heat-break, usually stainless steel, that is intended to prevent the heat from creeping up the hot-end assembly toward the motor, and a "cold" part that attaches to the motor. Above the heat break, it is desirable to keep the temperature as closby the_digital_dentist - General
Like that guy on the interwebs once said: "photos or it didn't happen". Ancient Chinese proverb say "one picture is worth 1000 words". Why is retraction off?by the_digital_dentist - General
I think you need to reslice it. There's definitely a problem with the gcode there. Slic3r can be flaky sometimes. Try Cura.by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
Get your parents, particularly your father, interested in what you're doing. Point out that you won't be blowing the money on weed, tattoos, piercings, beer, a loud stereo for your car, or a girl with weed, tattoos, piercings, and a loud stereo in her car. You may find that some unaffordable part suddenly becomes affordable. If they ask want you want for Xmas/birthday, tell them "I really wantby the_digital_dentist - General
I'm not sure that large format, aluminum rods, and high precision all belong in the same sentence, and I'm not sure you could build a printer that way. I suggest you consider something more appropriately sized for a dorm room, and focus on print quality. Any dope can build a sloppy printer (look how many of them are out there), but it takes some study, understanding, and effort to build somethiby the_digital_dentist - General
Don't forget to get the adapter board for the smoothieboard with it.by the_digital_dentist - General
Sounds like a USB buffering issue or something related to a power save mode in the computer. Some people have the computer OS chops to know (or claim to) how to prevent every possible computer induced problem from occuring, but there's still that USB cable and the connectors at both ends, and that keyboard just waiting for a kid, spouse, or pet to touch the wrong key at the wrong time. You canby the_digital_dentist - General
QuotecristianThey don't sell to private individuals?! Very bad news... I don't know how it works in the UK, but in the US you can register a company name very cheaply. I still occasionally use a company name I registered in Texas years ago, when I was dealing surplus stuff. I don't know of anywhere in the world that the economy is so strong and companies have so many customers that they can afby the_digital_dentist - General
Jeez! What does the part look like after it does that? Something is wrong with your gcode file- that isn't caused by a slicer setting, unless you told it to use 2000% extrusion width for the infill (print settings>advanced>infill or solid infill).by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
Why on earth would anyone want their living space to resemble the inside of a men's toilet at a truck stop? So what you learned was which type of paint covers sharpie ink best? Think again. The real moral of the story: People who exhibit such poor judgement that they think it's normal to write on walls wherever they go probably make a lot of other mistakes it would be best not to be around. Fby the_digital_dentist - General
4 words: Life size Yoda heads! You don't have to wait for someone to post a life-size model on Thingiverse- just use the scale function in your slicing software. If you have a large format printer you can print it.by the_digital_dentist - General
Mine does. See the link in my sig, below.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Try a different infill/top layer infill pattern combo. Sometimes there is an interaction between the the two patterns that can cause problems with the top layer infill. Start simple- use rectilinear for both and see what happens. You didn't post the "advanced" settings tab which specifies all the different line widths. Leaving all those settings at "0" makes them auto, but Slic3r sometimes haby the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
When Slic3r doesn't save changes to settings, any setting, you're going to have a problem. For example, you change the number of perimeters from 3 to 2, then save the print settings, and the number changes back to 3. This sort of behavior can happen with any of the settings in any of the preset files. When you see that sort of behavior, Slic3r is going to fail to produce gcode or is going to prby the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
One thing about Thingiverse and Youmagine: There are a huge number of things posted that the designer never printed or tested. If you don't see a photo, stay away. Youmagine and Thingiverse are a lot like the internet itself- lots of crap gets posted simply because no one stops it from happening.by the_digital_dentist - General
It looks like the Z axis of your printer is not perpendicular to the XY plane. You need to align the axes so they are orthogonal. Print this and use the spreadsheet to calculate the required corrections:by the_digital_dentist - General
ABS seems to work fine at 45-50C. My 30x30x28 printer is kept at 45C just from the bed and extruder heaters, so a corexy design shouldn't need any additional heating if you enclose it. Since you're in the design stage, you might consider keeping the electronics and even the motors out of the heated build chamber. I put electronics in a drawer at the bottom of the machine- see the link in my siby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
I assume you're posting this here because you're considering designing a 3D printer... Here's an interesting read: Note the emphasis on "fast"- not necessarily the optimal techniques for building a machine that you want to last a long time. I don't recommend plywood, MDF, or acrylic sheets for building a printer frame. Plywood warps and delaminates, MDF is glorified cardboard, and acrylic shby the_digital_dentist - General
Gear reduction decreases speed but increases torque. Geared extruders are most commonly used for 3mm filament because the torque gained through the gear reduction can apply more pressure to the filament going into the hot-end, which I think leads to fewer clogging problems. With 3mm filament, the loss of speed isn't usually a problem. If you use a gear reduction to drive 1.75 mm filament and yoby the_digital_dentist - General
This is relatively easy to fix. Turn the retraction acceleration up to maybe 3000 mm/sec^2 and then set retraction speed to 30 mm/s or more. You'll probably have to do this in firmware. Be sure the extruder is well calibrated, too. Here are my "after" shots: The cones are 6 mm dia at their bases and 10mm tall IRIC.by the_digital_dentist - General
Don't buy a cheap kit. They are all crap. You can build from scratch. I did it and have a much better printer than anything I've seen available for 5X the money spent. Be prepared to spend a lot of time searching for parts and learning how to use machine tools. The time spent studying designs and components is time well spent, unlike the time you would spend trying to get one of those $300 kby the_digital_dentist - General
I used high temperature silicone available at any auto parts store for about $3-5. Before you glue it down, get a piece of 1/4" cast aluminum tooling plate instead of a thin sheet that most people use. The 1/4" plate is truly flat and thermally conductive and makes a nearly perfect bed. It won't warp when heated and won'f flex appreciably when even a poor leveling system is used.by the_digital_dentist - General
When you say you calibrated the axes, what did you actually do?by the_digital_dentist - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I don't see anything insane about it, unless they're going to use MDF or laser cut acrylic for the frame.by the_digital_dentist - General
QuoteSlowFootSo what prize range is "safe"? It isn't a matter of price range. It is a matter of design- you can find poor design at every price. We have a Lulzbot TAZ (v3, I think) at the makerspace that is relatively reliable, but I would not spend $2k for it. It has many of the same mistakes found in much lower cost printers: two threaded rods driven by two motors for the Z axis -I'm foreveby the_digital_dentist - General
28 hours, but my printer is pretty slow- 50mm/sec. I can't find the picture of the print- a voronoi type headphone stand- a real retraction torture test. I print from SD card. Computers are too unreliable.by the_digital_dentist - General
I wasn't aware that this forum was aimed specifically at low cost 3D printers, though it's easy to understand why you'd think so, with so many of the users here trying to figure out how to get their low cost printers to work properly. But, you're right. If you want your 3D printer to be your hobby, a $300 kit is ideal. It will occupy many, many hours of your time debugging, adjusting, readjustby the_digital_dentist - General
Those little modules cost $5-6 each. If you could parallel two of them, you'd be in for $12. You'll need to keep spares on hand because they are easily broken, so now you in for $20-24 One of these, rated for much higher current (5A) is only $17 shipped : That's a chopper driver, pretty much the same thing as a A4988 on steroids. There's a better option- a DSP based driver that allows higheby the_digital_dentist - General