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Printing issues ...
QuoteDaGameFace
snip>> (For reference, some hot ends have a plastic call PTFE inside that makes it have less friction than metal to avoid jams. But this limits your max temp to really only using PLA)<<
It doesn't limit its use to PLA or at least it shouldn't. I have been using my shop made metal hotend with PTFE liner for 3 years or so, almost exclusively with ABS. The liner is cool
by
waitaki
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Printing
QuoteMarco L
salve a tutti, mi sono appena iscritto sul forum. Ho assemblato una prusa i3 seguendo alla lettera il sito reprap, sono arrivato all'estrusore e, avendone comprato uno cinese che ovviamente non funziona bene ho deciso di acquistarne uno buono ma senza spendere una fortuna cosa mi consigliate? grazie!
Have you tried printing ABS with your Chinese hotend?
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waitaki
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General
Try printing 2 at the same time
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waitaki
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Printing
I use nothing on the glass when using PLA. I just wipe thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol then briskly rub the glass 'til its pristine with kitchen roll paper. I have difficulty sometimes removing the prints from the glass - not because they're "glued" to the bed but stuck through suction. I knock 'em off sideways.
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waitaki
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General
Well, in "Print Settings", "Output Options", you could try ticking "verbose G Code" and read the G-code file text, after slicing, to see if it refers to bridging somewhere.
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waitaki
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General
You had a working machine before. You then re-flashed the Firmware so I suspect your problem lies there.
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waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
Might be worth checking the power connector that goes to the 11A socket on the ramps board for burnt pins or poor connection.
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waitaki
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Reprappers
Bed should be around 60C for PLA and I'm assuming that's a typo where you said nozzle is set at 82C?
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waitaki
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Printing
I'll hazard a guess that you're using PLA?
Try changing the Top/Bottom infill to concentric and see what you get.
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waitaki
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Printing
Hey Grael, I was completely flummoxed by your post until I realised you were quoting mpats post, line by line, then answering them - shame you didn't use highlighting cos' it was quite interesting.
Anyway...
Are you sure "model craft and hobbies" sells filament - I can't see any? I still source from China.
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waitaki
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
That's a lot of concrete!
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waitaki
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General
Nothing wrong with AliExpress - they are every bit as good as Ebay in my experience.
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waitaki
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General
Quotedc42
I regard Arduino Mega/RAMPS as obsolete and a poor (although cheap) choice these days; but as nobody else has replied, here are my suggestions:
.
If that's true, then there are thousands of "obsolete" machines out there!
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waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
You say you can touch the nozzle with your finger at 185C? If so, your temp is obviously not 185 - more like 50C!
Also setting the temp lower than spec and having it extrude doesn't make sense either.
Have you got the correct thermistor set in Sprinter?
Have you checked the thermistor resistance when its cold?
Does the resistance drop when you warm it?
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waitaki
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Controllers
I can't think why you would set the nozzle gap with a 0.2mm thick piece of paper of paper - much too wide. Even when using the 0.1mm paper piece, you should feel the paper "drag" a little under the nozzle (it's probably around 0.07mm). And as mentioned above, heat your bed and in particular your nozzle (suck the filament back 10mm or so beforehand) and set it up then. A nozzle gap can be signific
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waitaki
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Printing
Use this page...
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waitaki
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General
Have you got the wires connected to the C and NC terminals on the three end-stops?
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waitaki
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General
"Step sensors"? Do you mean end-stops?
If so, are you saying that when you hit the home button, the motors will drive into the end-stops and keep going - hence you needing to remove the power? And its happening on both the X and Y axes?
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waitaki
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General
Quotexdorkx
the Baud rate seems to be what was causing the issue. the "limited" instructions that i received with my printer had me change the Baud rate to 115200 in the program but didn't say anything about it in Marlin. however now that i can connect, it seems that the motors wont let the extruder go past about the midway point. any links you could point me to fix this issue?
Can you explain t
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waitaki
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General
Have you calibrated your X and Y axes correctly? Cant tell from picture which axis it's "leaning" on.
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waitaki
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Printing
Shouldn't move at all when you just power up the printer.
As I don't know where your at with the printer it's hard to comment. But, have you compiled and uploaded the firmware?
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waitaki
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Reprappers
Have you got the baud rate set correctly in Repetier?
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waitaki
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General
Mega's are open source so not really knock offs. I suspect most if not all of the Ramps boards come from China. If it's cheaper to buy them from Amazon, then there's no reason not to buy them. I've bought many ramps boards from China and all were good. I can't get free Amazon shipping like you probably can so my best bet is China.
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waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
Looks like an endstop or axis problem.
Here's an old thread...
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waitaki
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Printing
I've never used anything on the glass when printing with PLA. I just thoroughly clean the glass (ordinary clear window glass) and rub with a dry paper towel to finish. Temp is set at 60C. My prints will not come off until the bed is cooled - there is massive suction between the bottom of the part and the glass bed. Important factors are quality of filament and nozzle gap.
With ABS, I use hairspra
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waitaki
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General