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Printing issues ...
Silly questions first...
Have you got 12v power from the PS connected to both of the power input sockets on the Ramps?
by
waitaki
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General Mendel Topics
Do you not get leaks between the captive nut and the ceramic tube?
by
waitaki
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General
Yeah, good post DD!
I don't really understand why people give up with normal bed leveling and switch to auto bed leveling. If you can build a stable structure, then leveling the bed is quite easy. Even my first printer, which was built with stability in mind, hasn't needed to have the bed re-levelled in almost 3 years and I regularly remove the glass for cleaning and priming etc which doesn't ef
by
waitaki
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Mechanics
Also,as a test, have you tried disconnecting the heatbed wires from D8 on the Ramps and then re-connecting the wires directly to the power supply? If the supply shuts down, then you may have a short between PS and bed or on the bed itself. If not, then the Ramps needs looking at (or the PS can't handle it)
by
waitaki
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General
If the genuine Pololu is misbehaving at 0.4v. then I suspect the chip is faulty.
by
waitaki
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Printing
QuoteSim0-n
Hi,
There is no short, because as you can see i have directly plug the resistor on the Ramps
What does that mean? Show us a picture.
I see you only have the hotend connected to D10 and power on the 5A rail. Where are you connecting the heated bed? Why is the 11A connector vacant?
I'm puzzled...
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
You forgot to mention a power supply, driver chips, end stops, belts, bed heater, fans etc - even the hot-end (if you buy a ready made one) will cost a bit also, and you're trying to build the whole thing for under $100?
Anyway, those motors will be useless for a Reprap. If I was you, I would find some way to finance the project and give it the investment it deserves - 3D printers are wonderful t
by
waitaki
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Mechanics
In what way do you wish to improve what you have?
by
waitaki
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Printing
You should disconnect the heater wires from the Ramps board first then measure the heater resistance on the ends of the wires.
Also, is that heater tube really sticking out the back that far or just pulled out to show it?
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
This is what I suggest....
Remove the filament from the extruder completely so you are left with a nice clean non-oozing nozzle.
Level the bed all round. (you should not need to keep doing this unless you have build problems - mine was set 2 or 3 years ago and is still in spec).
Heat the bed to 60C
Switch on the hotend - 150C should be enough for setting up.
Adjust the nozzle gap using the pronte
by
waitaki
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Printing
What is your nozzle size and what layer height have you set in the slicer?
by
waitaki
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Printing
Have you got the correct thermistor selected in the firmware?
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Extruders don't stop heating for no reason - there must be a cause.
I assume the temp recorded in Pronterface is gradually falling?
Is the LED for the heater mosfet circuit illuminated when the temp is falling?
Can you measure 12v across the D10 terminals when the temp is falling?
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
The only way I can see that cone being printed is to start it with the small end down on the glass rather than the fat end.
by
waitaki
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Printing
Have you tried going back to your original configuration and running it again (i.e. before you put that new probe on)?
by
waitaki
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General
Have you got the jumpers fitted under each of the pololu drivers?
by
waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
That must be one hell of a hair-spray! What brand is it?. 2 coats should be enough.
Anyway, letting it cool down to room temp is a good idea but don't try to lift or pull the part off. Instead, tap it from the side (like you were hitting it with a small hammer sliding across the glass). Of course, the larger the part,or, more precisely, the larger the surface area that is contacting the glass, th
by
waitaki
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Printing
Have you got your X steps/mm correctly calibrated?
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
It's about time Adrian was knighted!
by
waitaki
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General
Have you checked the pins in the motor wiring connector are all fully inserted?
by
waitaki
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Mechanics
Use a software program to reduce the size of the files.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Why do you have a joiner in there in the first place? The heated bed should have one continuous cable from from the bed terminals to the Ramps connector post.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Adrian Bowyer?
Really?
by
waitaki
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General
The problem is the size - it's only 2mm high!
by
waitaki
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Slic3r
You're on the wrong forum.
by
waitaki
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General
You can also drop the bed temp down after the first layer is finished if you wish (or any layer) while the machine is printing - just set a new value in Pronterface on the fly. You can do that at anytime now that you have control of the heaters.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers