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Printing issues ...
Well, it could be the mosfet - check the centre pin. This is the pin that is grounded when the Mosfet is switched by the controller, e.g., when the Mosfet is off, the centre pin is isolated from ground but when the device is enabled, the centre pin is switched to ground which provides the return path for the heat -bed. i think that pin should be at 12v when its off. Put a meter probe on the Mosfe
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
I put a piece of thick card on the build plate to speed up the heating, then remove it, of course, when I'm ready to print.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
If you are using Slicr3, go to the "Filament settings" tab, select "Filament" and set all (4) temperatures to 0 (zero). Create the g-code for your chosen file.
If your have switched your hot-end and bed on to prepare for printing (ensuring they are up to temp) then as soon as you hit print, it will start immediately.
It is always a good idea to switch the bed on first because of the heating time
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waitaki
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Reprappers
Have you got the heat bed wired correctly? It could be that the bed terminal that routes back to the mosfet on the Ramps board is, in fact, shorted to ground.
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
Impossible to tell if your PS wiring is correct as I can't see the labeling on it. I would like to see how you have wired the Ramps as well. Have you checked the green connectors that plug into the Ramps for visible signs of burning?
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waitaki
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General
Have you configured the firmware for your set-up?
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waitaki
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Controllers
I would wire the heat sink fan permanently to the power supply input. If it's an all metal hot-end, you cannot afford to have it switching intermittently. I am not familiar with Azteeg, maybe someone else is?
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waitaki
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Controllers
If I was you I would just use 3 endstops - the steppers should not over-run in any situation that I can think of in a properly set-up machine. It just complicates things - in fact, you can run a machine without any end stops though I would prefer to have the 3 in place to make life easier.
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waitaki
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RAMPS Electronics
I've seen this several times on this forum. If you look in the g-code, at the beginning you may find a line which tells the controller to raise the Z axis by a few microns.
Can you post the G-code?
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waitaki
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Reprappers
are - dween - oh
that's fairly close!
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
QuotePeter Kinnon
Hi, I am a newbie so please excuse naivety.
I have acquired a Prusa Mendel. Produces very good quality prints except that the first (bottom) few millimeters are consistently missing. It is not simply a scaling issue (steps per mm) as horizontal holes are a corresponding distance off center.
Same thing occurs whether STL is downloaded from Thingiverse or prepared myself on Ti
by
waitaki
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
QuoteSparticle
>>>. I should also mention that the thermostats show a wired jumping, that didn't happen when everything was fine.>>>
What do you mean "wired jumping"?
Anyway, Sounds like the Arduino is faulty especially if a cable has shorted somewhere.
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waitaki
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Reprappers
No, 0.0 degrees suggests an open circuit.
I'm not sure what you're saying though? If the machine is cold, i.e you have just powered it up, and you connect with Pronterface ok - is the temp reading in P'face around room temp? If so, what happens when you click "set" to switch on the heater - does the hot-end start getting hot physically and does the rise in temp show in Pronterface accordingly
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
The picture you posted is looking at the back of the printer - not that it matters, but when it homes, you want the hot-end nozzle in the front left corner (in case you wanna grab a bit of oozed plastic) rather than back right as it would be if you used it like that.
If you saw 357C in Pronterface, that would suggest a short circuit. If you saw 0.0C, that would suggest an open circuit.
I wouldn't
by
waitaki
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Reprappers
You could make a drill guide from a block of wood, say 4" square and 1" thick. Put it on your drill press table to get an accurate hole drilled through the block then use this as a guide on your job.
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waitaki
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General
Are you saying you can see the extruder gear turning when the m/c moves from home to start print position?
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waitaki
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General
Un-install the driver that windows put in, then go to the following link..
Scroll down to "Documentation", then download one of the build manuals listed. - They are for an i2 I think but that's not important only the PC set-up is what we need.
Then, open up the PDF and scroll down to 10.1, choose the procedure for your Operating system (1st one listed is XP then Win7) then follow the instructi
by
waitaki
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
...and have you got 12v plugged into the 5A connector block (outside one) on the Ramps?
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waitaki
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Reprappers
Have you installed 3 jumpers under all the drivers?
Are the drivers fitted the correct way round?
Have you configured Sprinter for your set-up?
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waitaki
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Reprappers
if anybody cares? Strange thing to say?
Anyway...
Have you got the baud rate in the firmware set to the same value as in Pronterface?
Come to that, have you programmed the firmware for your particular set-up?
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waitaki
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Reprappers
There are plenty of tutorials online for "punching holes" in SUp
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waitaki
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General
There's also a plug-in for sketchup for creating gears.
by
waitaki
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General
Sounds like an endstop problem - as if they are not being actuated.
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waitaki
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Mechanics
Yes, there are several packages out there but Sketchup is certainly a good place to start (and finish if your happy with it).
by
waitaki
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General
QuoteStalker
Hi guys, yesterday I've tried couple of prints on my printer and found out that the printing always starts about 1.25 cm above the glass on the heated bed. The home position for z axis is set to be approximately 0.2mm (1 sheet of paper) above the glass however as the printing starts the z axis homes and then moves 1.25 cm above the right hand corner of the heat bed and starts to prin
by
waitaki
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Printing
Have you calibrated the extruder?
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waitaki
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Printing
Is that ABS? If so, what are you using for bed adhesion?
by
waitaki
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Printing