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Printing issues ...
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+1
I think that was my post u read - "the here's my problem and here's how I fixed it thread"
GREAT idea I think - I like the pictorial identifier too - even better ;-)
Didn't really take off tho :-P
Dunno if the forum has mods?? They might be able to sticky this thread, mine's slowly getting burried!
*waits quietly to see if he can hear mods rustling in the bushes*
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JazzyB
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Printing
Definitely new pic required!
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JazzyB
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Printing
I get the same issue - once I fixed it by tightening the idler on the extruder - got the same problem last night but didn't notice till this morning so I didn't get the chance to correct it, but I've tightened them again and will see how it goes next print!
Perhaps try this - I also think it may be slipping filament, seems to be the issue that causes it for me!
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JazzyB
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Printing
Or if you're hellbent on skeinforge, turn off all the plugins except the necessary ones (carve, inset, speed, I think that's all?) And get ok prints with those - then you might think "hey there's a bit of extra plastic where it starts / ends loops" - so you read up on the clip plugin and calibrate that next... And so on, until you have much better looking prints! I found I had too much turned on
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JazzyB
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Printing
Shoot...
That wasn't it...
And at ambient temperature, the bed and the heater block thermistor's both return (around) the same temperature... it's only when heated that the thermistor reads incorrectly, but it's definitely incorrect at higher temperatures, just turned the machine on and pushed it to 200 before, smelled burning abs... turned it down to 170 and tried to print 10x10x50 high tower,
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JazzyB
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Printing
If you have the option to print from a SD card on your machine (I don't know much about the individual electronics, only about mine which is Melzi) you should try to print from it... I had communication issues early on and these were all using a laptop to communicate over USB, I quickly learned to copy to the SD card whenever i had a large program or was leaving the printer un-attended... but you
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JazzyB
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Printing
Thermal paste? Like, the type they use for CPU heatsinks? or does this get too hot for that stuff?
Just thinking ahead to when I get the problem fixed, this may make it even more accurate :-)
I'm positively ITCHING to get home and see that this thermistor is poking out the back of my heater block :-) please please please! lol...
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JazzyB
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Printing
Wobbly cylinder - I like it!
This is true, nozzle diameter will affect print resoloution, but, the extruder gears should be quite printable even with a .5mm nozzle - I would be more inclined to look first at your settings in slic3r...
I can print fairly good detail at 40mm/s - but NOT if it's running too hot...
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JazzyB
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Printing
I've found this really useful - you want to scroll down to the section with "extrusion - PLA" (it works for ABS just as well mind you)
The "thin wall cube" is great for checking your "Perimeter width over thickness" (I'll be using skeinforge references, slicer will possibly call it something similar but different)
The 20mm box is good for basic starting point and for checking 100% infill does
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JazzyB
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Printing
Nophead - F-me dead - that blog post of yours went WAY over my head! You're a scientist of sorts? I'm a CNC machinist at a mechanical engineering place, I can build the hell out of any machine, but understanding the stuff on that page is beyond me!
Not that none of it makes ANY sense, I understand you're saying it's APPROXIMATELY a logarithmic curve, but that even the approximation is not 100% c
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JazzyB
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Printing
I think it's faulting... Extruded abs at 130 deg today... Emailed RRP for support, might get a new thermistor...
Bummed!
What would you say is normal at 32 (could have even been 40 or so in the hot garage that I'm printing in at the moment) Nophead?
I thought to be at 5.5k it would have to be a very high temperature? Googling actually shows that perhaps you are right - at 40deg it might be hal
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JazzyB
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Printing
10k thermistor is reading 5.5k (wiki here says it's meant to read around 10k while connected up) so - something's amiss... pity for me it's NOT a short, or a severed wire... cos I could easily find and fix that... I think the thermistor may have failed? cos if not I've no clue where to start looking...
funny, right now it's saying it's 32deg while at room temp (which is about 32 deg today...)
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JazzyB
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Printing
Lol... Was thinking of doing that - I have an ir thermometer, buit's actually quite hard to get a true reading from the tiny extrusion! For me anyways...
I'm mathematically minded for sure, would be easy to map temperatures and create my own ratio/formula for temperatures BUT... - it WAS right on day 1... So it's changed, and the thing is, if it's changed, then it may (and likely will) continue
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JazzyB
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Printing
I've determined that my temp sensor is way off - pity that I'm mechanical and software minded, but not electrical, which is where I suspect the problem lies :-( I was printing with stuff I know to be ABS today, previously it liked no lower than 200 and now it's around 130-140 before it stops extruding... At 200 its so liquidy, haven't been able to use the machine over the past few days, got on it
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JazzyB
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Printing
Wiki needs an update then, or I've read it wrong? It introduces the "Melzi" saying:
Melzi is designed to be a complete set of RepRap electronics that should be very cheap to mass produce. It is based on the Arduino Leonardo (Francesco Melzi was Leonardo's pupil).
I figured being on reprap.org that the information would be correct!
It contradicts itself by saying it's compatible with sanguino f
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JazzyB
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Printing
Furthermore, Alzibiff,
Was up late printing something and thought I'd read up on the Melzi (which IS a derivative of an arduino leonardo, as I first thought)
It has the same chip as a Sanguinololu and is compatible with its firmware... but wiki says it's based on the Arduino
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JazzyB
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Printing
I'll clarify:
Faberdashery ONLY sell PLA... so the ABS was from the "supplier I've just found" - who is "Weistek", from somewhere in Asia (ordered from my workplace so I don't have the details on my right now as I'm on summer break)
I was under the impression that the Melzi was an arduino derived, purpose built board, as somewhere in the RRP instructions for firmware it states "if you haven't a
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JazzyB
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Printing
This was all in a kit from the folks at "reprap pro" - bought from them to try and avoid things like this... I will ask the question of them... The electronics board is a purpose built one (based on arduino) designed by them... So you'd kinda hope they got the thermistor table close to correct!
Spewing its a table... Was thinking it'd be a simple coefficient like e-steps or something...
Cheers
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JazzyB
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Printing
Lol - I read somewhere that "burning abs smells really bad" and thought "yeah, but, compared to what? Burning most things smells pretty bad!?" But that clarifies - a sweet syrupy smell... Cheers ;-)
And the acetone did make it go gooey and melted it - it's abs, I'm sure now - does firmware allow for thermistor calibration? Might have to flash eventually...
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JazzyB
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Printing
Scratch that question - I just pulled out a roll of filament marked PLA - it's an entirely different beast... My assumption now is that my thermistor is reading the temperatures incorrectly - every material I use requires fairly low temperatures - so quite possibly the setting of 170 is really a lot higher and just being reported as 170...
But it's obvious to me now the difference between PLA an
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JazzyB
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Printing
BAM! Your layer height is too high!
Been discussing this at length the past week and your layer height absolutely cannot exceed your nozzle diameter... For a .3 nozzle try .2 layer height and see what results you can obtain there!
I'm a n00b so, I hope someone can back me up on this! But I really think that'll be your main issue!
Best of luck!
JazzyB
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JazzyB
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Printing
Ah that's right - allow cold extrusion ;-) I'll try that first, I'm honestly terrified of flashing the firmware cos it's "melzi" electronics
- Whaaat?
- exactly... If it were ramps or something there's tutorials everywhere but I don't know enough about it to be confident... Apparently it's the same process but it's still making me a bit nervous...
So M302 it is, for now ;-)
Any other tests
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JazzyB
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Printing
It does very much like to be fan cooled also :-/ (PLA +1)
This could simply be because it's coming out too hot though...
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JazzyB
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Printing
Hi people ;-)
Just got 8KG of different colored plastics - some ABS, some PLA, from a supplier who I've just found - I pulled a nice red spool of ABS out of the box, setup the printer to test a 50mm high 10x10mm "tower" to calibrate the temperatures (by starting at around 230 degrees and lowering by 5 degrees every few mm of height)
Now, it started out VERY very 'runny' - liquified... I quickly
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JazzyB
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Printing
I think acetone is widely accepted because it actually dissolves the plastic,
I'm finding the acetone is great for repairs and all sort of fancy finishing techniques... a quick dunk of a part in acetone and then back out gives it a shiny, smooth surface... applying acetone to the faces of two parts and then pressing them together and letting them 'set' allows you to weld the two parts with a bon
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JazzyB
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Printing
Yeah, that makes sense... I was thinking along the lines of "thiway the plastic has time to contract a bit after its laid down" but I think you're probably more correct in your thinking... It has nowhere else to go!
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JazzyB
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Printing
Ok, lower resolution, not much difference, a little better but problem remains .6 interference fit...
What I did change that gave me a male part of 9.95 and a female of 9.95 (so VERY close, acceptable for now!) was to change the fill order from
Loops>Infill>Perimeter (recommended by someone to give the least shrinkage of perimeters, giving something solid first to "hold the perimeter out"
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JazzyB
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Printing
Right...
Thanks for clearing that up Nophead ;-) your blog's been a real help getting started with all this!
I like using .25 also because it divides evenly into most parts - so good news that my nozzle is capable!
I'll still try printing at a lower resolution, don't know too many other things I can try?
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JazzyB
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Printing
Oh snap!
Wait - I'm using my .5 nozzle, which has like a .65 free-hanging extrusion diameter...
... to try and print .25 x .5 - that's never gonna work, right?!
Damn! I'd like that resoloution! But I'd MUCH rather dimensional accuracy! (on most parts anyways! I did get this to prototype engineering parts, not to print myself a barbie or geared hearts!)
I'm gonna go down that road... just rea
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JazzyB
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Printing
Filament diameter's still consistent enough, it's actually .03 smaller at the moment - so should see the opposite effect if any!
Extrusion multiplier - I'm calibrating for ONLY this material at this stage (natural ABS 1.75mm) and so therefore the extrusion multiplier is 1.0 (seen lots of people recommend .85 but this is only if you would normally be printing with PLA, and I am using almost excl
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JazzyB
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Printing
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