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Printing issues ...
Oh, I meant to say earlier...
Note, some of those setings are in mm per MINUTE and others are in mm per SECOND. BIG difference there.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Yes, let me be clear, my motors do get warm as in run above room temprature. By hot I was referring to your finger refuses to stay on them when you touch them.
You will find some old post around here saying that their motors run hot and it's OK. I consider this to not be OK because as far as I know this kind of heat stress leads to break down.
Quotethe_digital_dentist
When I said "higher than r
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appdev007
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Reprappers
So would this support my finding that my motors performed fine with a lower than reccomended Vref?
Quotethe_digital_dentist
The voltage rating of the motors is not important except that you want them to be as low as possible because that implies low resistance which also usually implies low inductance. The current determines the torque they produce and the motor driver uses PWM to limit the ave
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I had the same issue with the i3 I just finished and started up with Marlin. I lowered max feed rate for the Z axis from 5 to 2 and had the same idea as dc42 with the Z axis current. Haven't gotten around to checking that vref yet. If your not farmiluar on how check vref, the steps are on the Pololu stepper driver board page. I offer this note though, not all stepper motors are created equal. My
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Awesome! yeah it should keep your hot end or your heated bed or causing fires. You don't want those things run away and get as hot as it wants to. Good luck.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
OK, so here is the reprap page for the Melzi. Lots of good stuff on there.
I can't figureout the firmware based on Omni. The link above provides a link over to a RepRapPro Page which in turn provides a link to a github repo RepRapPro git repository for Huxley and monochrome Mendel which says it's marlin. There is probably some kind of command you can run to figure it out, I'm just not farmiluar
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appdev007
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Reprappers
OK with the thermistor wires maybe not being connected, perhaps the firmware flips on dry run for safty whenever it can't read from the temp sensors. I don't know what temp sensors you have, but if you have just the standard 100K termisotr witout any exta fancy boards between it and the controller, then the two leads of the thermistor just go straight to two different pins on the controller. Same
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Ah, I see. Dry run is a setting in the firmware. Sorry, never used it. So is there an indicator in your host software or lcd that shows rather this setting is turned on or off?
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Do you suppose that appdev7's 300+ posts over the last two years have all been .....
Thank you. I don't know if I have ever received such a comment as the ones Olaf has made. I took some time off and now that I am back I hope this isn't indicative to what I've come back to.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe
Quoteappdev007
If you find that you have had one non zero value in the ........ figure out how to run it on your printer.
Is this advertising?
I´m sure the tip is worth reading, but naming a certain brand twice leaves a bad taste...
Lately there was a "witch hunt" going on here because of advertising.
-Olaf
I assure you it's not. I have some history on this forum. I'm assuming you
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appdev007
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Reprappers
If you find that you have had one non zero value in the extrusion multiplier for ever, then I suggest updating your the E steps in your firmware to apply this. One thing I use this multiplier for is to conpensate for different brands of filiments having different viscosities at the same temprature. My firmware E steps are base on how Ultimachine filiment worked in my machine. I reccomend people d
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Take it an mount it on a cartesian robot!
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Jay,
I think you are going to have to be a little more descriptive about your problem.
it's being forced into "dry run"
Meaning the hotend header is being shut off?
whenever i try to change it ( on the printer with display )
it snaps back from off to on everytime i try to change it
Change what?
I think what you are saying is that both your hotend header and bed heater shut off almost as soon
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appdev007
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Reprappers
oh no the IRC channel is for everyone. There are all kinds of helpful people on there. and all kinds of people asking questions. I have even spoke to some notable people in the community on there.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
These are all I have ever used. If you contact him you can probably get dims. You might even be able to catch him on the reprap irc channel.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Well, I can't promise someone hasn't put the chip on a different form factor, but I would say if it looks like yours all except in color, your probably good. I've used the cheap Chinese ones and they work fine. If it would make you more comfortable find one that has arduino compatible in its description.
Btw,if you are desperate (willing to pay) and still have a RadioShack, they have them at fu
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I had the same thing here man, had one of my end stops wired wrong and USB stopped working. I was fooling around going to do what you are talking about doing and happened to notice it just started working again. I wonder how this happens?
It still goes out occasionally, but a full power off with USB cable out seems to take care of this. I got another RAMPS and mega on the way. Not going to mess
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Oh, well then no, they probably weren't the problem. I would take the Ramps off of the arduino, unplug all wires and the stepper drivers, and pin out what you can without power. After that plug up power to it and use some resistors and switches that aren't connected to your printer to test the rest of the board.
I like to hear you triple checked wiring. Could have not been your fault at all. One
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I really recommend the j-head hot ends and not just any random cheap one. Go to hotends.com and order one straight from Reifsnyder. They are pricier than others, but these are the original and this guy makes excellent stuff. He sales the mounting plate too, that has slotted screw holes in it; however, I think the minimum spacing on those might be 40+ mm at the minimum. You could buy the plate tho
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Sounds like you might be the type of guy who can follow a schematic so checkout the schematic on the RAMPS page page. The whole board is really just a bunch of individual circuits all lumped together on one board. I'm almost a supporter of separating them just for the very issue you are having. That said, with the cost of a new RAMPS and Arduino being so cheap and the risk to other things I would
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Yes, you need to hook up power to the second 12v port. Your supply says it has 8 amp 12 volt line and 1 14 amp12 volt line. you need to make sure that the 8 amp line is hooked up to the power port that controls the motors and the 14 amp line is hooked up to the power port that controls your heated bed. Then put another resistor on the heated bed port and repeat this test.
Quotewaitaki
QuoteSim0
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I had to go up to 194 to get this one brand to stick together well. Had to lower my e steps a bit too because it was to thin at that temp and was over extruding.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
That definitely does seem odd for PLA. If you burn something with a lighter does it smell kind of sweet. burn some of your good abs and compare the smells. PLA kind of has a sweet smell like antifreeze and abs has a chemical smell.
One of the cheap PLA I had required that I turn up the temperature to get it to melt but turn down my esteps because it was too liquidy.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I have had experience with about 6 different brands of plastic now and they all seem to have different properties. Different melting temperatures and different viscosities at those temperatures. If you're judging the plastic by the standard temperatures that get quoted around here then ultimachine is the best stuff in my opinion; however, I have got off brands to print well but not at the normal
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I am surprised to hear the 5 mm rods are giving you issues. I have an i2 I built and finally got dialed in and I used it to print my i3 parts. I am 90% of the way through my i3 build and my X axis seems to be rock solid. Nothing budges. I'm not really seeing how those 5mm rods are going to find a way to move the axis. Does your carriage or xends move even a little if you try to wiggle them?
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appdev007
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Prusa i3 and variants
My layer adhesion issues were mainly caused by not enough temperature and uninsulated hot end heater block. The biggest improvement came from a temperature bump. I was running the standard temperatures that everybody quotes for ABS and PLA. The material I had evidently need more that the standard. I have found that materials from different manufactures have different viscosities at the same tempe
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appdev007
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Printing
QuoteHauser
Thank you both for your insights. Bed level is a nightmare on my setup, as I have to check it out before each print and sometimes I forget... I will address these issues, thanks!
Make sure your z nuts are seated all the way in their traps. If you have extra material (like extra strings of plastic from printing the over hang) at the bottom of the trap, get that all cleaned out. Make s
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appdev007
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Printing
I would check your e steps calibration.
Verify your e motor isn't skipping steps.
I would find a way to verify your hot end and bed tempratures. (Note the included temp probe.)
I reccomend using known good quality filament when breaking in a new printer.
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appdev007
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Printing
I would start by turning on acceleration, you do have enough weight and at a second closer look you also have ghosting that proves it is inertia.
So the idea here being that it slows down when it get to the edge of the layer, which will reduce the inertia to help mitigate the overshot?
Loose belts, in my experience, offer uneven walls that are irregularly jagged.
If you mean each layer being off
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Do you have extremely low acceleration? Maybe none at all?
I haven't ever turned it on.
Are you belts tight?
There seems to be differing opinion and lack of specification on belt tightness.
It couldn't be from too much weight, else there would be ghosting.
Carriage + hot end + extender + motor + fans?
Are you printing PLA without a fan?
Yes, I'm printing PLA. I have one fan blowing on the upp
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appdev007
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Reprappers