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Printing issues ...
The echo of crickets in here is awful.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
See how each hole as a little lip around it? It's like a little build up of filament. This photo makes it look like it's as pronounced on the right as it is on the left, but it's really not. I would say the right is only 10% as high as the left. You can barely feel the lip on the right one. Is this maybe caused by over extrusion?
by
appdev007
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Reprappers
See, this is why I lean on you guys. Thanks ; )
by
appdev007
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Reprappers
OK, I need someone to check my logic and math here. If I'm thinking right:
Z Resolution = Z Screw Pitch / 360 * Motor Step Angle / # of Micro-stepps of Motor Driver
M8 threaded rods have a pitch of 1.2
My motors have a step angle of 1.8
My my drivers are set for 16th steps.
My threaded rods are attached directly to my motors with a coupler. (No belts or gearing that change ratio between motor a
by
appdev007
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Reprappers
Not that we needed more proof of Nophead's genius, but this immediately solved every bit of my upwards curling on overhangs. Thanks once again Nophead! ; )
Quotenophead
Yes the height doesn't affect the stretching if you keep the width constant because lower heights get proportionally lower flow. It is the width that counts. SF is better than SFACT and I think Slice3r because it relates the widt
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appdev007
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Printing
While I feel that I can trust alexrj, why can't Slic3r be built without the need for root access or local lib?
Or am I a fool and my system is toatally compromised now? ; )
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appdev007
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Slic3r
I hope so too. My electronics went down and I needed a part printed something bad. That combined with the fact that my printer was having a hard time with the part anyway gave me the idead to go checkout shapeway. They wanted 50 USD for the print!!! For that price I decided I would instead spend that amount on a new roll of plastic from ulti, wait for my new controller to come in, and keep tweeki
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Amazon and Mixee Labs have partnered to bring the world the Amazon 3D Printing Store.
I'm not posting an avert! I'm posting because I came here to see if the community was discussing it and didn't see it. I don't want to poison the well, so someone else start...
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Check out OctoPrint.
This gives you a web interface to your printer. You can then enable its password feature, open up a port in your internet router, and then view things remotely. If you printer control board supports it, you could even add a relay to turn the power supply on and off, put a custom gcode command in you slicer to work it, and then upload and start a print remotely.
Oh, and it h
by
appdev007
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Reprappers
Mine worked fne in manual too. your z end stop works?
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appdev007
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Reprappers
What operating system does your computer run? Linux/Mac/Windows
If windows or OSX I think you have to install drivers for the arduino. I could be wrong about OSX, but I know for sure you have to on Windows. Just switch to Linux. ; )
After that, try another USB cable.
Try it without anything hooked up to the arduino.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
First, make sure the Z asix moves well all the way from end to end with the printer powerd off.
Second, looking at the Melzi rep rap page it looks like there are pots for tuning the current to the motors. Check out this section from the RAMPS page about V-Ref. The same should apply. Me, I had to go a litter lower than recommend amount. Too little current and the motors miss steps, too much curre
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Yes, try the lower speed. I would aslo check your slicer. Not sure which you are using, but I think some have one value to say rather not to retract and then two more to say how far and how fast. Make sure that enable retraction is set properly.
Quotemondo50m
I just had to replace my Ramps 1.4 and everything is working except the retraction. I have it set to 40 on the speed and 3 on the length.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
LOL, it does indeed seem to be to be luck of the draw. My first China RAMPS (fried by the slip of a meter probe) seemed to be a rock solid. It's replacement had a poor solder join on the terminal block for the 2nd 12v source (heated bed), melted the terminal block, and unglued the trace from the board. I bypassed it and soldered directly to the leg of the self resetting fuse.
Quotecnc dick
Quote
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Well, if the one you got is working in your application then good. If you use micro stepping drivers in either of those applications and start to notice accuracy issues, put a volt meter on that power supply. Micro stepping drivers rely on precise current to achieve the partial steps. If the voltage is off, the current will be too.
Quotemondo50m
What would be the better supply to use? I have th
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I just wanted to issue a warning to the rest of you to be careful about purchasing those power supplies labeled Switching LED Power Supplies. The one I bought was labeled 30 amps at 12 VDC, but dropped almost 2 volts when put under a 16 amp load. It does this even with the adjustment pot turned all the way up. I've aslo seen the same ones labeled CCTV power supply. They are rectangular metal cas
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appdev007
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Reprappers
The best thing I have found for adhesion is hairspray for PLA and glue stick for ABS. Clean up is easy, just sit the glass in the sink and turn the hot water tap on high. I just leave it under there for a few min and it usually is clean after that. I immediately take it out and dry it with a clean towel. Make sure towel is clean, you don't want any oil (including from your finger tips) on the gla
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appdev007
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Reprappers
In my experience on the cheap isn't the best way to build one of these. If you go the cheapest route here is what you can expect:
Cheap printed parts - I have found that people who are selling parts the cheapest don't spend too much time inspecting them. If they are warped or deficient in some way you might be lucky to still be able to make them work until you can print a replacement, but then y
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appdev007
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Reprappers
MrDoctorDiv,
I have only built an Prusa i2, not something so big. However, I can tell you I have read this form plenty and it would seem that stretching the build envelope does indeed require sturdier parts. I think your idea to go up a rail size is a good one. I would also put a little more money on them and order some good hardened chrome plated ones. I am converting my i2 into an i3 and have
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appdev007
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Reprappers
gomboszuz,
Unless someone who happens to know the answer to your question runs accross MrDoctorDIV's post, your probably not going to get an answer. I would suggest reposting your question directly to the forum rather than underneeth someone elses question.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
QuoteRBisping
if you go back through the reprap blog logs and nophead's blog, also the reprap control software/slicer and skeinforge you will see the initial references to sparse infill even before the first replication. the origional extruders for darwin were teribly slow and sparse infill was concieved of to speed up print times and reduce plastic usage. the oldest version of skeinforge ive bee
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appdev007
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General
Congratz for figuring that out Jeff. It might help others if you posted where you got the board, takes some pics, and post a tutoral on this thread showing how you detected and fixed the issue.
by
appdev007
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Developers
Perhaps the Look what I made! toppic.
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appdev007
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Developers
QuoteDale Dunn
How many independent axes are there? A lot of Prusa printers run 5 motors on 4 stepper controllers. (1X, 1Y, 2Z, 1E). Power you'll have to figure out based on size and number of motors and anticipated loads.
And don't trust the amperage rating on cheap PSUs. Buy more than what you need. I would say at least 30%.
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appdev007
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Developers
And most importantly, make sure that new thread gets the solution posted to it.
Quoteuncle_bob
... That's why it's usually best to start a new thread for a new case of a generic problem.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
OK, you all are right. I just panicked. It made it to the bed and did fine. That is, until it reached about 6mm on Z, then it ran the extruder backwards and fast for enough revolutions to eject the filament from the extruder and then some. It then went forward again at normal speed and attempted to keep printing.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
You can print on various kinds of tape and everyone swears by kapton. I've never tired kapton and blue painters tape for PLA only delivered like a 78% success rate for me. My tried and true method is aqua net extra strong hold hairspray in three even thin coats with dry time between on glass for PLA. Elmer’s extreme glue stick in one even coat on glass for ABS. These two work for me 99.8 percent
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appdev007
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Reprappers
You read it right. When I Slice and print using Cura, it starts the print with the nozzle about five mm or more of the bed. I have a Prusa i2 using RAMPS 1.4. Sorry, don't have access to the Cura version numbers right now, but both an older and the newest versions do this. It homes Z fine, but as it starts the print, it raises the nozzle.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
What if the motors were designed to produce their max torque at that lower current?
Quoteuncle_bob
The gotcha with running low current is that the motors don't have very much torque (so no speed / acceleration / control). Past a certain point they don't have enough energy to properly step and they skip.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
We have determined in this post that the makerfarm motors are half amp motors. Not the normal one amp. Half your vref and work from there. I have first hand knowledge of at least one guy doing so and they run the printer fine. I guarantee the manufacturer didn't design these motors to run that hot. Anything running that hot is going to break down soon than it would if running at normal temp.
by
appdev007
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Reprappers