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Printing issues ...
Sorry had to edit my post. Yout don't need a seperate 5v power adapter for the Arduino. It should power from RAMPS or USB just fine. (My RAMPS that I bought new doen't power my Arduino for some reason even though it's suppose to. It runs off USB power.)
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Hear! Hear!
DaveS Wrote:
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> It's hard to get into the mindset of a 3D printer
> I find.
>
> ...
>
> It takes ages to stop thinking in a "what I can
> buy is what I can have" mentality. So people
> invent stuff they need, (which they don't) to
> justify the printer.
>
> If you get one, you'll go "Why did I
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appdev007
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Reprappers
So wider or narrower traces of the same pattern based on the thickness of the copper coming from the manufacture?
uncle_bob Wrote:
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> There is a tolerance on all things. That includes
> the amount of copper on a pcb layer. Most
> processes are optimized to deliver some minimum
> amount of copper to meet a spec. In the case of
>
by
appdev007
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Developers
I think I would start out by making sure the spring on my X end stop is still working. Switch should open back up after you press it.
Then I would start inspecting the wires for the two end stops. Inspect them end to end to make sure they haven't gotten worn anywhere or some other method of causing a short.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Your going to hate me, but...
1. Take some pics of how you have things hooked up and unplug everything from the RAMPS, including the power connector and the stepper drivers (Pololus). Bare as the day you got it.
2. Unplug the USB cord from the Arduino and any external power supply you may have plugged into the power jack on it. (You should NOT need and external power supply for the Arduino.)
3.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Not had that one before myself, but I would be suspect of the cord. I have seen a lot of people, including myself, getting crappy USB cables. Also look for anything that might be near by emitting EMF and introducing noise onto the cord. The best USB cord in the world won't hold up to a florescent light transformer laying to it.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Have any of you looked at the i3 frames with the support brackets. I don't see how this couldn't make it more rigid. You might just have to take a few things into your own hands. I'm going to mount mine on a 20mm MDF sheet with brackets to attach the frame and the rods to the sheet. Just because the thing wont just stand on the table as designed and print 0.01 mm layer height prints looking like
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appdev007
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Reprappers
If you click in pronterface to move the x axis left or right does it move? If not, check wiring and then try swapping pololus. Swap x motor to a different axis, but dont use the home button to test. Just arrows for manual move movements. Make sure no pins are bent between ramps and arduino.
Check firmware config. I there are settings in there for inverting end stops.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
It was another guy who had an out of spec bed, so I'm not quite sure what his actual resistance was. If I remember correctly, it was a MK2. Aren't the resistors on the bed just for the LEDs, not actually in the current flow path for the bed it's self?
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appdev007
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Developers
Now that I can see the pic, Cam is right, E steps definitely looks like an issue. I would stick to the thin wall cube from the front right until the walls are way more solid than that.
Here is the E steps calibration. I highly recommend you go through this whole doc in order before trying to do any serious printing. If you get stuck on any one step come back and let us know.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I would suggest trying these settings:
ABS Noz Temp to 230, bed temp to 100.
PLA Noz Temp to 185, bed temp to 60.
A layer height that is some were close to 0.35 * 0.8. (Needs to be an increment of the distance the Z axis lifts your x carriage in one micro step.)
A layer width of 0.4. (Keep in mind this isn't width over thickness. WOT is a number to multiply your layer height by to get the layer
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appdev007
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Reprappers
1st, need a bigger pic. Cant tell what is going on. If they have to be that small, you might consider just posting a close up of each print individually. (Um, OK, pic is bit now. Don't know what's up with my browser.)
What plastic are you using? PLA, if so those are the right temps for it. You need to be sure which plastic you have.
If you suspect you are having temp issues, see if you can get
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appdev007
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Reprappers
The statement that 3D printed parts aren't suppose to be ready to use without modifications disturbs me. I have built a prusa i2 and have finally got the printer running well enough that I feel it's worthy of printing parts to give to others. I just printed my first parts kit. All threaded rods fit into the holes snuggly with out alteration. All smooth rod holes are of appropriate diameters. All
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Sure, anybody know how bad that would effect things?
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appdev007
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Developers
Do all motors just sit still and twitch back and forth? If another motor (axis) is working OK try moving that motor to the working driver and see if it still works. If it does, try putting the motors back and swapping the driver boards instead.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Are your motor shafts all round or do they have flat places on the last third or so of the shaft?
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appdev007
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Reprappers
as far as I can tell it just makes your Z axis a little more difficult to remove. It does constrain it rather well eliminating wobble. I have them on my paper now
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appdev007
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Reprappers
If some one has a PCB heat bed that was manufactured with too high of a resistance, what do you guys think about shorting some traces to reduce the resistance? If feasible, I guess it would have to be done in such a way as to minimize interruption of heat distribution.
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appdev007
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Developers
My thinking was the bridge would offer an alternative path for the current, so hardly any if not none would be flowing across the trace. This would cut that trace out of the loop, reducing the resistance of the board. Wrong thinking? Would adding more path result in over heating of the trace?
NewPerfection Wrote:
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> appdev007 Wrote:
>
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I was hoping to see someone answer this. I though I read in this repository some where that the LM8UU was not the default metric version. I don't know though. What I can tell you is that a diff tool does show a difference between the following STLs when comparing metric-prusa to metric-prusa-lm8uu:
x-carriage.stl
x-end-idler.stl
x-end-motor.stl
y-busing.stl
You might try reposting your questio
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Hey, those look better squished together than the previous prints. I do notice that the layer offset occurs every 3rd layer. I finally dealt with the last of my wobble issues by printing a set of these (they hold the z smooth rods tight) and buying a set of these. I think this took the play out from in-between my linear bearing and my x ends and dealt with the never straight z threaded rods.
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appdev007
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Reprappers
This sounds like the same issue I had when I built my printer. I has misinterpreted the meaning of the number and letters for the stepper motor connectors. You need to make sure you have read the stepper wiring page from top to bottom.
One pair will be connected to 1A and 1B of the connector and the other pair will be connected between 2A and 2B.
I recommend the v-ref method for tuning your po
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appdev007
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Reprappers
Zangetsu57, unless you have a pretty good idea what your doing, I wouldn't try this right away. I'm posting it to get peoples thoughts first.
What if he picked a couple of traces that were right next to each other, scraped some paint off, and soldered a bridge between them to reduce the total resistance? Perhaps in a couple of places on the board?
(Something you could look for now though, my bo
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appdev007
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Reprappers
If someone can buy me a ticket from the US and put me up, I will be you slave for the entire event.
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appdev007
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RepRap magazine
If you measure it and its at an even interval, then it's axis wobble. If its not then the pulley slipping is a good place to start. (I had this very issue.)
by
appdev007
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Reprappers
Has anyone tried good old fashioned lard?
(Just kidding!)
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appdev007
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Reprappers
My ABS extruder gear teeth are slowly disappearing and they are both ABS. The small gear's teeth are going faster than the big ones. That makes sense though doesn't it, there are more teeth on the big one. Little one turns more.
I've had it confirmed by three sources in #reprap that PLA gears hold up longer.
I would imagine the smoothness of your prints figures into how much dust is made at fi
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appdev007
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Reprappers
I used 16 AWG speaker wire for my hot end and heat bed. On the heat bed I sanded the copper around the holes to expose more copper to solder to.
On the ramps end of the wires, I put a tight twist in them, soldered them and, before they cooled, I flattened them a bit so the would work with the screw terminal better. You could probably redo the ends on your wires, clip off a few strands and try f
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appdev007
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Reprappers
You'll want to get this one right. I was plagued by this issue for months. The PSU I had was of a name brand and stated it could do 16 amps on one rail and plenty more than 5 on the other, but it would appear it couldn't deliver. I had to add a 2nd PSU for the 11 amp connection before my issues went away. I'm pretty sure this was causing inaccuracy in motor steps and temperature readings. My pri
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appdev007
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Reprappers
You do want the z screws to be metric. The metric rods have a finer thread pitch (smaller distance between threads). Thiss gives makes it possible to move in smaller increments, more resolution.
by
appdev007
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Reprappers