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Printing issues ...
Re: what is the width of the extruded material? - 9 years ago
Not sure.that is just the one i bought.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: what is the width of the extruded material? - 9 years ago
If you go with this hot end make sure it will fit your printer. It is shorter then a j head, i have my x rails set vertically amd had to modify my mountimg so the hotend could reach the bed before the x carriage hit the bed... but i designed and built my own printer.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Temp drop on hot end and hot bed - 9 years ago
Connect a volt meter to your power supply on the 12volt rail. Run a print and see if the voltage drops while printing.my guess is you power supply is dropping out. Does the hotend stay at temp with the heatbed off?by cat.farmer - General
Re: what is the width of the extruded material? - 9 years ago
that is a loaded question.. if you want the standard answer a j head.. but not the Chinese made ones on ebay.. from a good supplier.. should be in the $60 - $80 (US) I bought an MG Plus( not a j head) off ebay.. i love the thing, but really only made for pla and abs. If you want to do hotter plastics you will want an all metal hotend.. and they can get pricey.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: what is the width of the extruded material? - 9 years ago
I have no experience with that hot end. So i don't know what kind of quality it has. Does the hotend hold temp when you are extruding? Or does it drop? I had problems with the first hotend i had, i tried everything i could think of but could not get it to work for longer then 15 minutes before it would jam. After months of trying i ended up buying a known, quality hotend. I think the problem withby cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: F2 fuse burn - 9 years ago
Yes you need a fan on the ramps, and heat sinks on the drivers.. the fuse will reset when it cools down,unless it shows signs of being burnt.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: wiring xbox PSU+relay+RAMPS 1.4 - 9 years ago
D2 is the diode that sits behind the fuses. ohm meter should read one way but not the other.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: bed heater issues - 9 years ago
what firmware are you using? sounds like the mosfet for D8 may be bad.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: what is the width of the extruded material? - 9 years ago
There are a lot of factors that go into the jamming issue. What type of filamet? What type of hotend? Where did you buy the hotend? What type of extruder? What temp are you extruding at? Are you trying to push 3mm filamet through a 1.75mm hotend? How fast are you pushing the filamet? It is posible you damaged the hotend having it that close to the bed. Or you could have hit a bad spot in your rby cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: wiring xbox PSU+relay+RAMPS 1.4 - 9 years ago
if you have everything off the Ramps board and no power applied to it then the Ramps board is bad. check D2 to see if it is shorted, ohm meter should read one way but not the other. by backwords I mean negitive to positve - positive to negitveby cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: wiring xbox PSU+relay+RAMPS 1.4 - 9 years ago
I would start by disconnecting everything from the ramps.. drivers and power, so you have just a bare ramps board. Then try to connect. If that works, then add the power and try to connect. Keep adding componts until it fails. Just shut off the power each time before you add anything to the ramps board. Did you happen to connect the power backwords at some point? Also i'm not sure you need the rby cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Hardware store hot end - 9 years ago
Wow that looks really nice. Great job.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Z homing issue after Marlin firmware update - 9 years ago
that is wahat I thought, but it seemed odd to me to have everything commented out but that line. still working on my coding skills, in arduino, I was a PIC assembly guy before I built my printer. tby cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Z homing issue after Marlin firmware update - 9 years ago
Maybe .. maybe not.. but i see you have safe z homing defined in the auto bed leveling.. could maybe be the cause.by cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Implementing an Auto-Leveling Bed? (link) - 9 years ago
Quotekfootball15 Thank you! Is this a good servo motor? Not sure of the size on that one.. most of what i have seen used is the SG90 micro servo. And the mounts on thingiverse are set up for those.by cat.farmer - General
Re: what is the width of the extruded material? - 9 years ago
I think from my .35 I get @.48 when free air extruding. I'm assuming the 1.3 you are talking about is filament squished to the bed? If not you are way over extruding. check your feed rate as Dust suggested.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Ultimate Guide to 3D Printing 2014? - 9 years ago
I picked up a copy, but have not really dug into it yet. Seemed like a good review of the well known models. Picked mine up at Radio Shack if any one is looking.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Glass Heat Bed Adheasion - 9 years ago
I made some good progress on this issue also. While trying to set my z height i could not get it to say put. I'd dial it in,and print. With in a print( just doing a single layer print) it would either drop and drag or raise up too high. Found that my motor shafts have 1mm of play in them ,basicly causing backlash. Not sure why i never noticed it before. I kept blaming my z stop not being cooperatby cat.farmer - General
Re: Glass Heat Bed Adheasion - 9 years ago
Thanks for this tread.. I have the exact same issue. I bought my heat bed over Christmas thinking it would pay for itself in not buying tape.. but i have yet to get the print to stick. I have tried everything everything you did.. but i used kitchen towel ( paper towels for my part of the world). Infact i just finished with my frustration for the night.. will be trying these sugestions over the weby cat.farmer - General
Re: Axes only move in small increments - 9 years ago
Look at you DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION in you configuration.h file. .set it to a lower number.. mine was set at 9000For x and y.. I set mine to @ 2000 (i think) .. mines not a Prusa..but the same applies.by cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Fine thread for Z axis - 9 years ago
I had/have the same issue. the repeating "wave" every 5-6 layers with 5/16 rod. I am in the middle of upgrading my printer, so I can't tell you if it works or not, but it was suggested to me to decouple the rods from the motors with something like this . also to put some sort of anti backlash mechanism on the Z axisby cat.farmer - Reprappers
Re: Hardware store hot end - 9 years ago
Quotenicklogan I'm thinking of soldering a brass tube to the inside of the top cap once the push connector threads are tapped because the inner diameter of the threaded sections is quite large. Thanks for the dimensions. Be careful of the solder you use, most common solder has a melting point near the running temp of the hotend.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Hardware store hot end - 9 years ago
What do you have in side the lamp tube hardware? The hole in them would be much too large to work. Needs to be no bigger then 3.4 mm for 3mm filamet and 2mm for 1.75. Unless you found some with that small of hole.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Z axis artifact - 9 years ago
After I posted and sat back with my coffee.. It occured to me I could get one from thingiverse.. DUH! As I have to design and print new X carrage peices (ok I don't have to, but why not) I will see if I can incorperate an anti backlash setup into them. Thanks again everyone.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Z axis artifact - 9 years ago
It never occured to me to compair the banding with the lead screw.. I'll be damned if they don't match..so Z-wobble it is.. Thanks.. now to order more parts.. not sure who hates me more the mailman or my wife..by cat.farmer - General
Re: Z axis artifact - 9 years ago
Im not sure what an anti back lash mechanism is.. so i guess not.. but the z seems stiff enough.. i'll do a little seaching on that. Filamet jas been checked, and is correct in slic3r.by cat.farmer - General
Re: Z axis artifact - 9 years ago
Well I've run through all of the sugestions with a little improvement, but not much. incressing to .2822 height did not make any noticeable change. I also tried .30 just to see what wuld happen, it created gaps in my sidewalls, but I could still see the bands though not as bad reduced my extrusion mulipler from 1 to .90 which made things look better, but created gaps also checked my belts andby cat.farmer - General
Re: Z axis artifact - 9 years ago
I do cool my drivers, although right now it is done with the output of the cooling fan from my ATX PS. I am going to print a ramps box w/ fan sometime soon, when I have 6 hours to babysit the printer. thanks for the kind words on the printer. your goint to laugh, but the frame is my daughters old futon frame, but it worked out perfectly. I knew someone would comment on the wallpaper.. house isby cat.farmer - General
Re: Z axis artifact - 9 years ago
I designed and built my printer, though it is based off of a mix of Prusai3 and MendelMax2 and a lot of reading. It is still a work in progress. I have attached a picture. All the failed prints hanging from the top, that is what you get when you try to go cheap on a hotend. Best money I spent on the thing was a good hotend. I am using Imperial threaded rod for the Z, 5/16 - 18. My #define DEFAby cat.farmer - General
Re: Hot-End 2 and bed heats up same time - 9 years ago
check the solder joints on the ramps. Sounds like some trace between D8 and D9 is bridged.by cat.farmer - RAMPS Electronics