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Printing issues ...
I am really pleased with my prints, but I have a reocurring band in them. I can't for the life of me figure out why. it shows up in everything I print and on all 4 sides. my only guess is that the z axis is missing a micro step every 5-7 movements up. speed has no effect.
Slic3r
0.35 nozzle
0.28 layer height
PLA @ 190c
Perimeter speed is 20 mm/s
Extrenal perimeter is 60%
by
cat.farmer
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General
It looks like the prints have blobs on them, a sign that the temp is too high. What temp are you extruding at? You can try the advanced settings in Slic3r, set infill to 110% and keep going up from there, until you get what you expect. Do your other calibration peices look ok?
by
cat.farmer
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General
i would pull the RAMPS board off the MEGA, then see if it connects. load some different software, like Blinkey , from the adruno library, to see if the board functions. if that is good, inspect your RAMPS board for damage. if all looks ok then connect the RAMPS and the MEGA (reload whatever firmware), with out anything else connected, (remove mtor drivers) and see if it connects. then just step t
by
cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
Scoured the internet, I can't find what type of thermister is used in the MG plus hotend. I am using themister #1 right now but it seems to run a little hotter then what pronterface reads.
Also if anyone has any experience with this hotend, is there any advice you could share about this unit? Is a fan needed for PLA?
Thanks.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I will say that is what I did.. I'ma broke father of 4, and had a lot of the rods and motor from old printers and scanners. I bought the least expensive parts I could. I am happy with the quality of the electonics I received. The only advice i have is get a good hot end, not a Chinese one. I fought a hotend problem for over a month and finially broke down and bought a good one ( MG Plus). Well wo
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Thanks for the clearifacation Uncle Bob. I knew I should have looked at the schematic.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Disconnect the heat bead and check for 12v at D8. Check the resistance on the heatboard leads. Should be in the 1 to 2 ohm range. If those are ok then it should work. Not sure if the led is run from the arduino or is run off the mosfet..my guess is the arduino if that is the case it would not mean you get 12V at D8, only that it is signaling the mosfet to turn on.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Do you have power connected to both inputs on the ramps? the 2nd 12v input is for the heatbead.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I did not see a mention of a heat sink on the pololu drivers. do you have heatsinks and a fan on them?
by
cat.farmer
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RAMPS Electronics
I have thought maybe it was bad filamet, but i don't have any experience with this stuff, so I'm not sure. I think my jamming is from too much heat creep. I had tried a bigger fan but i couldn't get the hotend to hold temp very well, something i think i have corrected with insulating the heat block, but I stopped short of testing it last night.
Is there a link that explains what to look for with
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Thank for the reply. My hotend is peiced together off of ebay parts.. PFTE insulator,stainless barrel, aluminum heat block and a brass nozzle,heat sink and a 40MM fan.
I did figure out my problem tonight... my extrusion rate was off. I had calibrated originally using only a20mm feed... tonight i used 900mm and ended up with 969, so with the proper extrusion setting things are working much bette
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I have been trying for a week to get my printer calibrated, but have had just tons of jamming issues.
I got down to the bottom of my jamming problem last night. turns out my head is digging into the print after printing 7 to 12 layers and is causing the filament to back up and jam, it is repeatable, I printed an open cube last night and you can see it in the columns of the cube, 8 layers and ja
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Are you trying to fit the themister in the block or insulate the wires?
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Thanks for the input. Bruteforce seemed to be the answer. I was a little fearful of twisting off the brass nozel, but it worked.. still oozes a little, but it stopped jamming. I also had to take some 600 grit sandpaper and smooth out the inside of my stainless barrel. The parts i bought were less then perfect and i may end up getting a new hotend before long. But today was a good day.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I am just finishing up my build, and pushed some PLA last night for the first time. It of course jammed and I had to disassmble the hot end. I found there was PLA in the threads, and wondered if this was part of the jamming problem.
My question is other then Teflon tape, are there other methods to seal the hotend? Is there a type of O ring or washer that can be placed in side the heat block that
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers