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Printing issues ...
what control board are you using?
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
Guess I could have included that it is for 1.75 only, and it will be a bowden setup,so torque may be more of an issue. But then I'm not worried about the weight, so a longer motor is not a concern
Thanks dc42..that is good info.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I've been working on an extruder design, and I've been wondering about the current extruder designs and what the benefits or short comings are in each as it relates to output power, and the ability to feed filament.
My focus is on the MK8 design, and the use of a standard NEMA17 motor. But I question the torque that set up has, as other designs use a geared setup, which
I assumed was for addin
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Fiberglass is a good choice. while the cloth can handle the temperature, the resin they use to make is stiff can not. They are made from most often epoxy, polyester resin – or vinylester, or a thermoplastic. more info here .
I looked at it also, as a heat sheld, but ended up with a ceramic sheet, commonly used in firing ceramics in a kiln. It is thin and a little brittle, but I use a couple of
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
that last post was a mess- remind me not to post things while sitting at the bar..
I was thinking of hi-temp silicon as an insulator, not sure how conductive (or non conductive) it is though.
I find it hard to get any solid information on what the best design is for a hotend. In my strolls through the web, you can read long transition zones are better, short transition zones are better, this
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
The heat issue is a tough nut to crack. While the heat break is an innovative solution, it is stll a matter of removing the heat created by the heat source, to keep thing in equilibrium. And do it in the right location. I too wish I had access to a flir camera. For just that purpose. I have built a 5 channel (probe) temperature monitor that i built and can read temps at different points, and down
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
Even with stainless heat break and polishing, I couldn't get pla to work consistently. The problem was the transistion zone. It would swell and stick, no matter what I did. I am working on one right now that I am excited about, once I get my new grooving tool, I can get my fins cut and get it tested.
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
Not sure what sensor would help with that or how to implement. You could go it with GCode.
G302 to turn on cold extrude
G0 Exxx Fxxx - Exxx being the length of the feed and Fxxx being the speed you want it to feed.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
QuoteJamesK
Yes, it's standard practice on the taig to use a cut-off tool on the back-side of the lathe.
I asked because I saw a video the day before you posted. the reason they gave was that the blade kicks out instead of getting pulled in, so it does not bite your work peice. I'm new to lathe work, picked mine up over Chirstmas, and am learning to use it.
Back to topic...
The problems I have
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
Are you cutting the grooves with the lathe in reverse?
Interested in how it turns out. Hotends seem so simple in theory, but after having several bad ones and trying to make a few, it seems to be an art form.
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
This what I saw on mouser.com
I did not mean any disrespect. And I still plan to build one. I was just pointing out what I saw.
by
cat.farmer
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General
Just curious... I went out to look up the processor. It's listed as an end of life product. Did I miss something?
by
cat.farmer
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General
Very cool. I have been wanting to jump into the 32 bit world, and this is the perfect jump off point.
Thank Truamflug!
by
cat.farmer
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General
I'm not sure I agree with the ball bearings being less prone to locking, maybe high quality ones, but the cheap ones are crap.
By the looks for your design, I would sat the the bushings are too short, allowing your x axis to tilt easily. if you had longer bushing, or a pair on each side, it would be much more stable.
by
cat.farmer
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General
are you trying to mount a direct drive or with a Bowden tube extruder?
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
It would be wiring, switch, or firmware. I would manually move each axis back and forth, checking endstops with M119 each time you move them to home. if they read correctly with each test, then I would reflash the firmware, or just start with the firmware and go from there. Get a new copy of the firmware, and set it up manually, don't just copy and paste the settings from the old one, you may jus
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Don't think you could do a kossel, or not much more then the base. Hydro dipping one would be cool though.
by
cat.farmer
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General
thanks for the input, It was just a thought, I have a buddy that runs a vinyl shop and does skins for a lot of different items. I just wondered if it would be worth the time to make them available.
by
cat.farmer
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General
if you need it strong - set it to 100% infill
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
if it's a Bowden set up you will need more retraction, I think 5mm is a good starting point. If it is direct, play with retraction speed, start at 20 and see what happens.
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
I have that problem with my printer also, after sitting for awhile, resetting or restarting pronterface fixes my issue. I think it is a USB problem, or maybe a firmware issue. you can check the thermister with an ohm meter. it should read around 50-60k at room temp.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
s0 = off
s255 = 100%
anything below s75 may cause the fans to stop.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I'm not sure there is a true guide to making everything work, but there are plenty of "how to fix an issue" in this forum. Search for a single problem you are trying to solve, instead of looking for a one stop guide for all of them. one by one you will get it running and calibrated.
by
cat.farmer
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General
I was just curious if anyone would be interested in skinning the printer? for those that don't know what skinning is, it the putting a printed vinyl wrap to cover the frame. I was thinking of making them available, probably for the i3, multiple designs available at first.It would be a quick easy way to dress up your printer. Any interest??
by
cat.farmer
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General
how do you turn the fan back on? My first thought is wiring.
You could look through your Gcode for a M107 command or an M106 Sxxx command, If the Sxxx is to low it may be to slow to keep the fans going.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
QuoteDRobs86
Thanks for adding to the discussion. Can you quantify what level of precision you are looking for? I honestly don't have aspirations of producing anything capable of producing a couple thousandths precision because affordability is much more of a priority for me than world class precision. The machine will be belt driven in the interest of affordability. With that said, a belt driv
by
cat.farmer
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General
I have been looking for just that over the past few months. I decided I was just going to have to design and build one. I am looking at needing to mill aluminum, does not need to be a big build area(15x15 cm)would be good. precision would be my biggest request, it does not have to be "nuts on" but I can make bad cuts with my drill press.
by
cat.farmer
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General
does the motor try to turn and just whines?
2 things come to mind, vref set to low for the Y and/or you are tring to print too fast.
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
The fuse should be marked with it's rateing.. We have no way of knowing what size you may have.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Yes, you will need to recalibrate your extruder. Any time you change parts on a printer you should recalibrate.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers