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Printing issues ...
my guess is a slight bow in the bed causing the hotend to be coloser to the heatbed.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
I edit stl's with sketch up. It's kind of messy, but it works.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I would be worried about condenstation once you bring them in. but assumimg you wrap each one, with some silica gel, and leave them that way until they are at room temp, I think they would be just fine.
by
cat.farmer
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General
I have found that sometimes cold is too cold. a project I am working on ( which is water cooled) would jam at the top of my barrel. The trasistion from hot to cold was so sharp that on retraction the filament would solidify almost instantly, and cause a jam.
back to topic:
I would check the shaft on the extruder to see if it gets hot enough to soften the filament and cause it to slip.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Glad to hear the issue is resolved. Did you shorten the wires on the servos? Or just remove your extention wires?
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cat.farmer
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General
Let me know if you find them. I have looked all over ( web and locally) and I can not find. They are cheap enough from e3d, if you need a replacement.however I would like to find in bulk.
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cat.farmer
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General
yes, dirty means just that ripples and with any signal wires the shorter the better.
On the power line a capacitor will do, search the web for capacitor filter, as there are several types, and you may need a resistor in the circuit as well.
you can also try a ferrite ring on the servo lines to help kill any EMI,
by
cat.farmer
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General
To start, look for common/hardware store parts, plywood, old printer and scanner parts. That is where I started with my printer. After I had it functioning I designed and printed new parts to make it more solid. The Motors, contol board, hotend and the extruder would need to be "purchased", but everything else you can make with nothing more then hand tools.
More then happy to help you on your j
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cat.farmer
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General
since there are hundreds of "how to" build video's, Why not do a Rap Strap build? Frankenstein some salvaged parts and make it work. build cost would be minimal, and as you build you can show what is important in the build process and why it is important. To me that is much more interesting and educational then the" here's where to put your nut" videos.
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cat.farmer
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General
The only thing I can think of from here is you are making a change in the firmware you shouldn't be making.
Are you making changes in files other then the config.h?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
The only thing I can think of from here is you are making a change in the firmware you shouldn't be making.
Are you making changes in files other then the config.h?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
What type of extruder? Check your hobbed bolt or gear for roundness.
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
I did not see any mention of the board you are using. I assume it is a Ramps 1.4 by the settings. Is that the case?
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
I would monitor your input voltage and current to your servos. See if the power drops. If you have a scope you could also see if you input voltage is dirty, and needing a filter. If not try addig a filter to see if it helps.
FYI - I am dealing with a similar problem using 5 servos, I am using the I2C output to contol them however. It is one of the issues on my list to resolve, I just have not go
by
cat.farmer
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General
Attach a copy of the config.h from Marlin
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cat.farmer
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Printing
it would need to be a modification on the endstop board. Do you have the 4 pin or 3 pin version? it should be as simple as moving the NO trace to the NC pin on the switch. I think that will also reverse the logic on the LED, so it would be off when triggered. but there are a few iterations of that board, so it's not a cut and dried answer.
Do NOT just try this as it may short out your ramps and
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Being a PC repair guy, my first thought was maybe it is just a dirty USB connection. It sounds like it / they worked for an extended period, and started to just recently fail? If it were EMI, I would expect that to show up quickly, unless something has changed in the surroundings. By putting a new PC in place and the problem goes away, just enforces that that thought.
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cat.farmer
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General
Quick search on the part number gathered the MSDS sheet.
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cat.farmer
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General
What about splitting the hub and supports off of the wheel. If you spin that portion to fit the bed you may be able to print the full lenght of the supports. Then print the wheel in 3 or 4 parts and attach to the supports with acetone or small flat head screws.
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cat.farmer
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General
very common problem, just melted mine 2nd Ramps board. I just remove the connector and wire in a Dean's high amp plug , commonly used for R/C projects.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Thanks- I did not realize heat watts and power watts are the same. I was over thinking things, I guess.
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cat.farmer
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Developers
Try new usb cable
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cat.farmer
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Printing
do you have active cooling (a fan) on the RAMP?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Does anyone know or have a link to what the heat output is for the typical heat block with a 12v 40 watt cartridge heater is in watts or BTU/hr? I tried the math myself, just a little above my skills. Or if someone can help explain the math- that would be even better, teach a man to fish...
I've estimated it at @800 BTU, but I'm not sure if that is even close.
In the end, what I am looking for
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cat.farmer
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Developers
Did you check the gcode to see if it is a slicer problem or a machine problem?
Start there and let us know.
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
You may want to try an exturnal power suppy to the servos. They may get twichy due to lack of power. I have also heard of putting in a filter capacitor on the power lines.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Old HP scanners.
by
cat.farmer
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General
First thing i see is your nozzle size and height are the same. That won't work. Try a layer height of no more the .3.
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist
The ideal weight would need to be a little more than the weight of the extruder carriage due to losses in the pulley connecting the weight to the extruder carriage, but be careful. If you unload the X axis guide rails the Z axis screws, normally loaded by gravity, may not behave well and could bind or cause poor print surface quality. Next you'll have to figure out how
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I am interested in the results. I have the exact same problem and have thought about going to 3 point bed leveling. but dc42 brings up a good point, it may be flex in the rods and not a bow in the bed.
Now I'm thinking about some sort of counterweight to attach to the head to test that theory, but how much weight? need to do a little research on that one.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers