Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
There's also a contrast adjustment pot under the LCD. I used a bent paperclip with a flatten edge to get under the LCD to adjust.
by
cat.farmer
-
Reprappers
I have a big pickle jar.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
are you actively cooling your electronics?
by
cat.farmer
-
Printing
typically that is caused by a partially blocked nozzle.
You can try the fishing method to clean it out. heat the hotend to 160(PLA) 190(ABS) so that the filament get soft but not fluid. then use a peice of filament, by hand, and run it into the hotend and pull it back out quickly, do that a few times and see if you can remove the blockage. if not then you will need to disassemble and clean it.
by
cat.farmer
-
Printing
Thanks Tim..read that a little fast I guess..
by
cat.farmer
-
General
I'll add everyone owns a sheet of paper. Junk mail finally has a use.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
A 5 amp power supply is too small for a heatbed. You need at least 15 and more likly a 20 amp. PS. If you are talking a but the yellow ( I'm assuming there yellow) fuses. They are poly fuses and are self resetting, unless you've really damaged them. I would check the mosfets and to use the heatbed you will need to get a bigger power supply.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
My guess is the dimensions are off causing the bushings to be slightly out of place. I have had that problem more the once. You can try to clearance the mount, until they fit correctly.
by
cat.farmer
-
Reprappers
sounds like your electronics are over heating. do you have a fan on the ramps and heatsinks on the drivers?
by
cat.farmer
-
Reprappers
You can always file the flat on the shaft.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
what is the MAX temp you have set in the firmware? It is a 4 degree difference, which I would assume is the normal heating cycle.
by
cat.farmer
-
Printing
Check the wiring. Just becaue they have the same plug doesn't mean they are wired the same
by
cat.farmer
-
Reprappers
Maybe a bad ramps board?
by
cat.farmer
-
General
The e3d v6 lite does it. PTFE actually runs to the tip.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
The hotend should not wobble at all. That will cause way to many errors in your prints.
you can set PID on the Heatbed, I have I have no real proof that that works to correct the Z axis issue, but have read and heard that solution many times. I would also check and make sure your settings are correct for you Z axis steps, it maybe making a correction if you do not have that configured correctly o
by
cat.farmer
-
Printing
you can open them with notepad. Pronterface has an editor under tools.
you are looking for M140 Sxxx.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
Did you look in your gcode to see if bed temp is told to increase? That will give you a better idea of the where the problem is.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
I only used it for a few days. It was the hotend choice for a custom printer I built and sold. I use the e3d v6 on my printer, but trust that e3d is going to put out quality. It did not skip a beat during calibartion and testing. If I had anything bad to say is the ptfe tube needs a good straight cut to meet the tip, other then that a big thumbs up.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
It is a very good hotend for the price. If you don't plan on going above 240c, you will be pleased.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
Print them on a raft?
by
cat.farmer
-
General
The picture is not so clear, but it looks like your bed or x axis or both is not level.
by
cat.farmer
-
Printing
I use an hobby knife and scrape it across the part.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
Quoteo_lampe
To drive 5 extruders with a bowden concept, you couldn“t use RAMPS/Mega combos anymore.
-Olaf
Not true, I am currently working on a 5x extruder that does work with RAMPS/MEGA/Marlin. just takes a firmware tweak, and a daughter board.
by
cat.farmer
-
Developers
This is for milling, but the principle is similar.
by
cat.farmer
-
Reprappers
either the hot end is loose or it did not seal. Cheap hotends suffer from that often. Take the hotend apart, clean it up, and wrap some teflon tape ( plumbers tape) around the treads. Reinstall the parts according to manufactures instructions.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
could also be that one of your Z motors is skipping.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
I just took a paper clip, pounded a flat edge on it, bent the tip to 90 degress, and slid it between the LCD and board.(powered off of course). gave it a turn, hooked it back up, and repeated until it looked good. no need to try and ruin the board.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
E3D does sell them. Look under the parts section. I have looked for them else where, and could not fine anything. On-line search netted nothing. I thought maybe an LED holder might work, but the sizes are incorrect. If someone knows where to buy these in bulk I would love to know.
by
cat.farmer
-
General
I went down the same road, I knew I wanted a 3d printer, but knew very little about them. I started reading the WiKI, and the forums. looked at all of the designs, and took in as much information as I could before I even started thinking about what to build. I would say I spent 4 months just researching and reading. pay attention to other peoples failures, and the advice they get, this will help
by
cat.farmer
-
General