Show all posts by user

Re: reprap discount smart controller menu or height problem - 8 years ago

the 2004 is not a REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER, it is a 12864 LCD. which I'm guessing is the problem. you will need to find out which type you have.

by cat.farmer - General

Re: E3D V6 Lite - 8 years ago

I have one but have not mounted it yet, still building the printer. The kit is complete, and a very nice looking hotend. I have no worries about it preforming as good as their other hotends.

by cat.farmer - General

Re: reprap discount smart controller menu or height problem - 8 years ago

swap cables and see if the problem changes

by cat.farmer - General

Re: FRUSTRATING!! - Print quality or weak print - 8 years ago

Yes, ebay. They are 50mm

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: FRUSTRATING!! - Print quality or weak print - 8 years ago

I would say yes, your fans are too small. I have 2- 9 CFM fans on mine, and I find I have issues on some bridging. My plan is to upgrade to a blower style or higher CFMs. You can test with some bridging calibration pieces.

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: Printer Suddenly Printing Whiskers and Ridged Walls - 8 years ago

Check over the printer, belts, rods, motors, ect.. make sure everything is tight and aligned. I recently had the same thing, where prints just went to hell for no reason, turned out one of my x rods had become loose.

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: 0 volts to hot bed from ramps 1.4 with marlin firmware - 8 years ago

Does the led come on when you set the heatbed. You mention a relay? Where is that in the setup and what kind? Does your hotend heat up?

by cat.farmer - General

Re: FRUSTRATING!! - Print quality or weak print - 8 years ago

Do you have cooling fans? The only way to fix the delamination is to print hotter, so you need to cool the print, or print slower.

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: 0 volts to hot bed from ramps 1.4 with marlin firmware - 8 years ago

Do you have power to both inputs?

by cat.farmer - General

Re: FRUSTRATING!! - Print quality or weak print - 8 years ago

images don't load.. but it sounds your heat is too low and not fusing the layers. PLA or ABS or??

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: Auto level weird problem - 8 years ago

probe more points on the bed, 2 is probably not enough

by cat.farmer - General

Re: Hot end - 8 years ago

IMHO, spend the extra on the E3D v6. If any part of the printer you don't want to skimp on it is the hotend. I went through 2 cheapo hotends before buying a good one, which ended up costing me more then the E3D would have, and months of frustration. there is the new E3D lite6,(which just arrived in my mailbox yesterday) which is very inexpensive for a quality hotend, just can't go above 240c.

by cat.farmer - General

Re: 12864 LCD issue - 8 years ago

try swapping the cables, this will at least tell you is the cables are good... maybe. I just received 2, one works fine the other has display contrast issues.

by cat.farmer - Developers

Re: Reprap discount full graphic smart controller not working - 8 years ago

I received 2 of them this week. One of them works as expected the other has problems with the display. Turning the contrast resistor all the way counterclockwise, the display is barely visible. I also had one cable that was intermittent.I saw someone mention a resistor to fix the contrast issue. I will see if I can find it and post link here. These are labeled with bigtree-tech website.. If y

by cat.farmer - General

Re: Changing bay on RUMBA motion controller for Extruder Stepper Driver - 8 years ago

You just need to find and change the pin assignments for E1 so that E1 = E0.

by cat.farmer - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future

Re: Bed center way off. How do I center it? - 8 years ago

in your configuration.h file // Travel limits after homing #define X_MAX_POS 185 #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MAX_POS 180 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MAX_POS 220 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 set those to your bed size in mm. there is also a setting in the slicer program to set bed size.

by cat.farmer - Firmware - mainstream and related support

Re: Need help to resolve blobby extruder issue - 8 years ago

ABS or PLA? if ABS the temp is way too low, try about 230C and adjust from there. if PLA got to 210C and adjust.

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: Buildup/overflow behind nozzle/hotend - 8 years ago

Good to hear...happy printing!

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: Z travel height - 8 years ago

1. Guessing you are using Cura? If so it is a fuction of the slicer to pirme the hotend. It's in the gcode if you want to manully remove it. 2. The ref voltage setting is base on the characteristics of the motor, so more information would be needed to give you an answer. There are guides on the wiki. You may also want to check for binding. You can try and turn your voltage up just a small turn,

by cat.farmer - Reprappers

Re: Buildup/overflow behind nozzle/hotend - 8 years ago

wrap some Teflon tape on the treads and screw it back together.

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: prusa i3 really bad z wobble. I think - 8 years ago

That looks like a combination of a couple things, Heat, speed and maybe missed steps. I would try printing it slower and see if things improve.

by cat.farmer - Reprappers

Re: Marlin and minimal Layer Time - 8 years ago

G4 - Dwell S = seconds or P = milliseconds you will need to manually enter it into the G-Code,

by cat.farmer - Firmware - mainstream and related support

Re: Nozzle Dragging - 8 years ago

A fan on PLA is almost a must in my opinion. ABS does not need one, but PLA is sooo much better with a fan.

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: Nozzle Dragging - 8 years ago

If it is getting worse as the z goes up, I would suspect missed steps or the height adjustment ( steps per mm) is slightly off. I would grab a tall calibration piece and see if you print as tall as it should be

by cat.farmer - Printing

Re: Adjusting print settings on the fly - 8 years ago

the only one of those you can control is temp, after the print is started. Everything else in in the G code.

by cat.farmer - Reprappers

Re: What if we were to press the RESET Button - 8 years ago

Interesting idea. As laser toner is mostly plastic the mechanism to create the layer is already there. you would need to find a way to accurately lay the layers on top of each other and fuse them as they go. There are a few high end devices that use Xerox's solid ink print head, they lay down (I think) 250 lines per head, not using plastic, more of a wax resin.

by cat.farmer - General

Re: printed X and Y are not at the same scale - 8 years ago

I'm not sure what rod length has to do with print size accuracy? It is controlled by the firmware. in your steps per mm. What model device and firmware are you using? That being said, I doubt you are going to get much closer then you are, hard to account for shrinkage from filament to filament, and if you do happen to get it dead on, it will change with your next roll.

by cat.farmer - General

Re: What do you think is the next great push in the RepRap Community - 8 years ago

I had a few thoughts as I read through this. 1. I had always used RepRap and 3d printing as synonymous terms. I've come to realize they are not. RepRap is project based, development, sharing, and a community. 3D printing is a manufactured machine, where as you live within the producer's landscape. 2. I find that some people live way to inside the box. Most of the arguments seem to follow the s

by cat.farmer - General

Re: How is the fan controlled? - 8 years ago

yes, you set your board in the config at 33. and D9 becomes fan control.

by cat.farmer - General

Re: Error: MINTEMP reached problem - 8 years ago

could be a couple things. bad wiring, bad solder joint on the RAMPS (or what ever board) maybe plugged into the wrong input, wrong pin assignment, or improper board selected in the config Mintemp is an open circuit, so if everything is connected and configured correctly, I would check the board for bad connections.

by cat.farmer - General