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Printing issues ...
cool, Glad I could help you out.
There are a few videos on youtube about making hobbed bolts as well as some things on the WIKI. It is fairly easy to do, and just as easy to screw up.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
could also be bad wiring / loose connection to the E motor. the only other thing that comes to mind is a flat spot on the hobbed bolt, if poorly made. I just did that when cutting a new one last weekend, you would be able to feel it when turn the extruder by hand.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Do you always run just 1 hold down on the extruder door? If so that may cause your issue. Make sure they are applying a good amount of pressure on the filament. It could also be bad filament, do you have more then one roll?
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
What version? There was an issue with older version, the new one corrects the temp reading issue. There is also a bata version, that has some new cool features.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
QuoteStalker
it extruded the exact length of filament as I asked it to in pronterface.
It is the length going into the extruder not coming out of the hot end. what do you have set as steps in your firmware?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Don't know the TAZ, but M107 is fan off for marlin. Other gcodes are here
by
cat.farmer
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General
Try more heat. 230-240c is the norm. Also you heatbed should be at 100c for good adhesion.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Is there a slicer that handles more then 4 extruders or colors?
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cat.farmer
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General
Excellent.. thank you. That is what I was missing.
I will have to write the I2C code but I could not find where to inject it. Now I can at least move forward in my plan.
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cat.farmer
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Developers
I have started on a project, the quick of it is - adding a daughter board (Arduino of some model yet undecided) using I2C to control servos and/or actuators. I want to do this on a tool change command.
I can't seem to find much information out there on what happens(in Marlin) when a T0, T1, etc, command is issued. From what I have found is it pauses the print, and retracts and heats the called
by
cat.farmer
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Developers
I have used scanner glass on my printer, works great until you drop it. I have shattered regular glass due to heat expansion.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Raise the hotend so it is not so close to the bed for the first layer.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I would try moving your z up a bit, looks like you may be tooo close to the bed.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
while I agree that it is not an easy market and you need to be mindful of what you are producing, I find your arguments about not being able to make money a little to " inside the box" And I do agree, you are not going to make money producing the same objects ( 3d parts, gopro stuff,etc) that litter auction sites, there are a lot of other ways to make money with the printer. no you are not going
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cat.farmer
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General
increase retraction or retraction speed.
sorry- just reread ans saw that you tried that.
but that is the only way I know of to fix that issue.
Is it a new roll of filament?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Yes you can make money with open source. After a year of printing things for myself and others, it was time to start charging for things, afterall plastic isn't free. There is a website, which I can't find again, where you can advertise that you will print things for profit( or whatever). My 9 year old daughter is now producing keychains for her friends. I couldn't be happier that at the age of 9
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cat.farmer
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General
since your parts look good below a certian Z height, I'd look at the stiffness of your printer. Does it wobble more as you get higher up on the Z?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
QuoteyoUmake-3d
Can anyone share some of the biggest reliability issues they have had to overcome and how they did it? I am in the process of a build and would like to get a good idea of what I need to watch out for.
My opinion - Reliability comes with getting to know your machine. I fought many an issue while designing,building and printing with mine. Some were my fault, or all if you blame
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cat.farmer
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General
you left off reliability. that to me is high on the list. it's nice to know that when I turn on my printer, I'm not going to have to tweak(or worse) a bunch of things to get a good print. larger print area would be great too, but you'd also need speed and performance for that.
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cat.farmer
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General
Wht size is your power supply? You may be under powered.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
I couldn't get in to the gcode, permission problem. I've had that happen a few times, but mine is always at the beginning of the print. I would guess it is a slicing thing. When it happens try reslicing and see if it continues, if it does then I would suggest reloading firmware.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
I couldn't open the files other then the JPG, but I get the idea. I'm using SCAD, but you don't need to go through the trouble of creating a file. I would like to see a finished product though. how big are the objects, or more to the point, how small can you go?
I was thinking of building an RC car this winter, I do RC planes, in fact I started on my printer with the goal of building a quadcopte
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cat.farmer
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Printing
ok.. so I'm interested..
what layer height are you printing at?
PLA,ABS, ??
nozzle size?
print speed?
can you post a pic of the cad drawing?
I still don't think a ball joint would print right, but I have 4 days off and would like to play with the idea.
Oh..and tayana.. IMHO = in my humble opinion..
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cat.farmer
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Printing
It won't work that way. You can't float a piece inside another piece, with out some sort of support. Printing a ball is hard enough, edges will want to sag, printing it inside a socket would be almost impossible. someone correct me if I'm wrong. I build my ball & sockets individually, and snap the ball into the socket. I can post my SCAD file when I get home if you like. I happened across a d
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Can you expand on your question? There are various ways to connect 2 moving parts, or print them so they breakaway after printing. IMHO, sketchup is not the easiest to work with when trying to make precision parts. I use SCAD, for modeling fit together parts(or about anything I make), it makes adjusting much easier.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
I would be willing to bet that everyone here has at least one horror story.
Mine was with PLA when I first built my printer. I designed and built my own printer, did my research, and sourced my own parts. The hotend I chose, however, was not a good choice. I purchased parts for it off of Ebay from a man in Ohio. (yes that guy). In fact I bought a second one from him as I thought I must have got
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cat.farmer
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General
I did just what Waitaki said. Printed holders for the bushing (press fit mine) then zip tied them to the carrier. Never had a probelm.
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cat.farmer
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General
I use a sodering iron to heat up the nut and push in
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cat.farmer
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General
Quotenophead
You need the secondary colours, i.e. cyan, magenta and yellow when mixing pigments that absorb and reflect light as they are subtractive. The primary colours are used for processes where the colours add.
you would also need black and white filaments for color mixing to create the proper shade.
by
cat.farmer
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General
A- that is an artifact of changing layers, you will need to randomize the starting point for perimeters, also it can be a retraction thing, try a little more retraction also.
B- Play with your max acceleration and jerk settings (assuming Merlin here)
C- - Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
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cat.farmer
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Printing