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Printing issues ...
Here is the info on the RAMPS1.4
It will do a better job of describing their purpose.
These diode allow power to flow only one way, so that you don't over power the Adruino board.. d2 anyway.
Popping noise? That is a bit of a mystery not sure what would make that moise, but be assured it is not good.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
My guess is you have blown one of the diodes, check D2, or just remove it. Also it could be installed backwards. It is used for running in non USB mode( sd card). But it should get you running again. The diode is a 1N4004, if you need to replace.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Sounds like your drivers are over heating. Do you have heatsinks and active cooling on you board?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
for the X axis swap step sticks with one of the othe rmotors and see if it folows the board or the motor. then you can figura out if you have a bad board or a bad motor. My guess is board.
Check the wiring on your board. I am assuming you have an MK2b board? are you running 12v or 24 v?
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I too live in the Midwest and thought about such a system.
What I envisioned was a skid loader sized vehicle, with multiple attachments.
My design had thoughts of battery powered hydraulic pumps. Swap-able battery packs that were wind powered/solar recharged(charging station). The bot would autonomously change battery packs as needed.
GPS controlled areas, with some sort of safety shutoff.
Som
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cat.farmer
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I too built my printer, an I3 varint of my own design. I use both Cura and Slic3r. They both have there merits. I do use Cura for most things because it is easy, and I don't do too many complex models. but there are times that things need to be tweaked beyond what Cura can do. Also I think you learn more about what your printer can do with Slic3r, because you have so many more options and you ca
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cat.farmer
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General
OK.. I get your reasoning now. had not considered the use of softer filamets.
if you run them in a all in a straight line bank, then there is no need to lift them, the heads will all be above the print. The tool exchange would just need to slide into place.
and for that matter, if you did use a turret, and it ran parallel to the bed, you would not need to lift it either.
side note- I like t
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
from what I am understanding, and from what I see in the picture, you are going with direct drive hot ends?
wouldn't a Bowden set up make things easier and allow for more hot-ends?
I had thought about backlash in my design, and thought it should be minimal, no greater then 3/4 of the tooth pitch. (if my brain is grabbing the mechanics correctly)
I will agree that lining up the hot-ends makes t
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
hell I don't know.. have to be someone smarter then me.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Think of it as a stand alone unit, feeding the hotend(s) using Bowden tubes.
you could have them all feeing one hotend by combining all the tubes to one, with lots of retraction. I've seen multiple fed hotends.
Or you could feed multiple hotend, even at the same time.
I'm not sure I understand your exception, so please elaberate, if I didn't get it right.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
ok so here is the idea, each extruder is actuated to mesh with the large gear when it is it's turn to extrude, otherwise it is lifted off the gear and sits idle. so you have one motor driving all of the extruders. only one g code for the extruder, you just need to insert an M-code?? to move the extruder into position.
i know there has to be a flaw in this that I am not seeing because it seems w
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Logo'd bottle opener?
Nothing is better then a beer while you wait for you print to finish.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
I was a little surprised at the 2KG head, but then I realized it is fixed, so you are not trying to move that mass.
I looked at a clutched idea myself for a not related, but similar project. search for copier clutch, they are small and cheap, down side is they are 24v, but that is easily overcome. I think to keep size down that is almost a must. Are you thinking direct drive or Bowden tube?
I j
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
Just thinking, but you could use E1 (the second extruder) to control your stepper on the turret. You would need some sort of feedback ( one of the unused end stops) to know that your locked in. I am more intrested in how you will control all of the extruders and hot ends.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
here is a little heatbed theory.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
not sure anything will work better then a pad designed to be a heater.
I think placing 2 heat sources in an area won't give you much thermal spread. and you will just end up with hot spots and hard to control temps.
Maybe a coil wire type heater (like in a electric dryer) would work, but do you really want to mount a moving wire coil on a moving platform at 120VAC?
Why not the silicone heater
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers
do you have a link, picture or STL of what you are trying to print?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
pretty sure those are not heat producing. just used for night vision. you want heat from a light go with halogen. LEDs are not the answer,
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
is auto bed leveling turned on?
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cat.farmer
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Printing
what model printer?
depending on the printer - I would look at your z axis movement. skipping steps or not holding position.
by
cat.farmer
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Reprappers
try it with the big fan off, print won't be a very pretty ptrint but I wonder if you are cooling the hotend down too much causing the low flow issue and jamming.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Ahh..i think that switch would be ok to use, bit i will defer to those that have the knowledge.
I just played with sketch up, but there are lots of youtube videos on the usage of it. It is really easy to learn.
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cat.farmer
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General
I guessing you mean 30 amp power supply. Yes that one will work, but beware those have a hit or miss reputation. Some work well and some fail out of the box, just the nature of the beast, on Those things.
Yes you can tie the 5 and 11 amp inputs together.
I did the same thing with the switches, i have 4 switches mounted to the side of my printer in a box I designed. I suggest you get Sketchup and
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cat.farmer
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General
Cardboard worked because it is very porous and allowed the plastic to "sink in".
The variations in room temp, humidity, airflow all effect how the print reacts. I began to notice a pattern as the seasons changed here. I live in Iowa (USA) and we can very between -20f to +100f during the year. I have had times where yesterday the printer worked great, and today it won’t stick or it warps or the
by
cat.farmer
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Printing
perhaps this will help
or
provide +5V to Pin 2 and 0V to Pin 6.
I have not done either so please verify my answers before attempting.
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cat.farmer
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General
I can see this turning in to a lesson in ethics and philosophy. It certainly set my mind on a journey this morning. And is a great topic to discuss.
I am neither a developer nor seller, though I aspire to be both. My first simple thought was, make the person that posts a seller link reference link back to the developer with a hyperlink, much like in a written report has to reference its mater
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cat.farmer
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General
Best to post a picture if you can.
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cat.farmer
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Printing
Thanks for the replies.
Quotegmh39
You can print it at your highest resolution and solid infill then put it in an acetone vapor bath.
I did think about that, but I need a clean, professional looking product. I don't think the vapor bath would give me the finish I am looking for.
A2 I swear you live in a reseach facility, you always have great and detailed answers.
Traumflug - you have given m
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cat.farmer
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General
I wanted to ask the community about a thought I had for an injection molding idea.
I have ther need to create a small part , a box that is 30mmx20mmx20mm (hollow) 2mm walls (@ 3 grams of ABS), and want to do it injection style for strenghth and looks, not to mention speed.
so I wondered if I could convert or use a reprap style extruder/hotend to do the job. I'm not opposed to building a small
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cat.farmer
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General
To cool the print or the hotend? For the hotend just wire it to your power supply so it is always on. For the print...not familiar with that board, but my guess would be the output for the second extruder, if it has one and you aren't running 2 heads.
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cat.farmer
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Reprappers