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Printing issues ...
QuoteAndyCartI'm sure someone much brighter than me will find a way and then ...
Cherry Pi III
I'm putting my money on you figuring it out before they do. Would the sensors read properly if you bonded standoffs to the glass, attached the heatbed to the standoffs with a cork insulator below, and stacked a second piece of glass on top as your heated print surface? I would think that it should b
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Delta Machines
If Sainsmart's RAMPS board is anything like their Megatronics kit, they didn't ship it with DIP jumpers and you will need to buy three for each stepper driver to set the correct micro-stepping rate.....
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Delta Machines
That figures! I just started printing the parts for a Cherry Pi Mk1, and it will be obsolete before I finish it.
Seriously though, it looks good from the pictures. Did the three force/strain sensors make it into your final design, and are you using them with a heated bed?????
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Delta Machines
I hate to go "academic" on A2, but I don't think that his photo essay above will pass peer review because it fails to provide printer settings and actual print times for each object being compared. If the fan blade above was printed in 30 seconds as a rough draft while a similar RepRap one took 2 hours at insanely slow speeds and high resolution, one could see how the pictures are not telling th
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General
That looks like how mine are wired. Try tapping the switch QUICKLY, and see if the LED on the endstop board lights up. If it does, they are wired correctly. If not, don't tap it again as you'll risk blowing your board out!
When you have the switches smoke-tested, you can then test them with an M119 command to read each one's status via software.....
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Reprappers
Ultem 1000 = $68/square foot on the first web site that I checked.....
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Reprappers
In case anyone else was looking for info:
http://www.buildtak.com/faq/
Per their web site, with optimal care, it can last for many hours of use. I have print jobs that run for many hours. Do I only get one use? At about $10/application for a thick plastic film that apparently releases parts easier when hot rather than cold, I'm not going to be the first to try it.....
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Reprappers
When the editors don't proof their own work, I don't think that it is worth reading. This mis-pasted half sentence is where I stopped reading:
QuoteAlongside the development of high performance industrial 3D printers such as those developed by 3D Systems and Stratasys, the 'maker' movement has spawned a plethora of lower-priced, lower-quality, Alongside the development of high performance indus
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General
QuoteNoobMan
Yes on second thought i think could use it like 3 closed loop for x, y and e, while leaving z open loop, this way could stick with 3 closed loops in sort of a 3.5D movement, where z only counts for 0.5 of an axis as it is used only between slices.
So, you essentially are saying that you want to make the thing a paperweight in a Delta application, where X, Y, and Z all need to move a
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Controllers
Resistance is in ohms, not volts.....
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Reprappers
I tried 1.2 meters, and my extruder was having issues pushing filament at times. I trimmed it down to about 700-800mm, and haven't had a single slip yet on either PLS or ABS.....
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Reprappers
Quotestonefisher
I thought you were supposed to run prints off a card if you wanted a smooth print job without pauses.
The Megatronics 2.0 has a micro-SD slot on the motherboard that works fine, and Sainstore is bundling it with a choice of two LCD displays that contain full-sized SD cards that do *not* work without butchering your board as described in a German link above. I'm getting a few pa
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Reprappers
I'm also using Repetier firmware. As far as I know, the instructions for hacking^H^H^H modifying the Megatronics 2.0 board have not been clearly translated to English, so only the German forum folks have a working external SD card reader at the moment.....
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Reprappers
The beauty is that current hotends are still drilled for thermistors, so you can run the thermistor and the heater's K-type thermocouple side-by-side to chart the fluctuations and see what the actual difference is. Unfortunately, I am still swamped with trying to get a solid printer running, so I personally don't have time or a test environment to pursue this further at the moment.....
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General
Quotestonefisher
I'm thinking of getting this set for a rostock style delta 3d printer. Is there any reason why I shouldn't?
The full graphics display is reportedly a CPU-intensive device compared to the regular 2004 LCD or no LCD at all. A Delta-style printer needs lots of CPU power, and arguably is pushing the 16 Mhz CPU to its limits on the Arduino Mega 2560-based systems like RAMPS and Mega
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Reprappers
The one plus that I will give Radio Shack is that they had a whole rack of genuine Arduino Mega 2560's in stock when I was there a few months ago:
Anyone in the USA with a RAMPS board that accidentally pops their processor can be back online the same day.....
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General
They have one that is 6mm x 20mm:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Heater-Cartridge-12-V-40-W-OD6-x-20-mm-for-3D-printer/1656199662.html
It appears that you can custom-order many different sizes and configurations. At $4.26 each shipped (minimum quantity 10), it really isn't a bad price if it works and has a K-type thermocouple. If it is only a few bucks more, getting one with aright angle cabl
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General
What does the "H" button on the top right do? Hold? How about the "non contact voltage" stuff?
Also, the input says that it is fused. Have you verified the fuse is intact?????
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Reprappers
It appears that they only have one mosfet available in stores according to their web site:
Radio Shack - You've got questions? We've got blank stares.
I don't know about you, but I want my 1980's Radio Shack back.....
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General
Quotewaitaki
Looks like you have the "AC" button pushed in?
I was just about to post the same thing, and it would most certainly cause zero readings with a DC input.....
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Reprappers
My guess would be either crosstalk from another cable running near the ribbon cables, or possibly a pin in one of the ribbon cables not making perfect contact. Try re-seating the cables first.....
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotestonefisher
I was thinking of using something like this to heat the plate: Is there anything wrong with using one of these?
Did you notice that this particular heater pad is 220V? You'll need to wire it to mains (wall) power, and either use a SSR or external temperature controller to regulate it.....
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Reprappers
The display is powered by 5V, which is the same voltage provided by the USB port. The hotend and heatbed run on 12V or 24V. Long story short, check your 5V power supply.....
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Reprappers
Did you verify that your meter is working by checking the 5V and 12V power supply lines?????
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Reprappers
I have cut unidirectional carbon fiber sandwich core panels with a pneumatic cutting/grinding wheel without any fanfare. You might want to wrap them in tape and then cut through the tape to prevent fraying and shards.....
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Delta Machines
Try setting the baud rate to 115,200 on both the firmware and your PC.....
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Reprappers
I'm surprised that nobody pointed out the obvious global marketing problem caused because some major cultures around the world don't eat beef, and at least one big player worships cows as gods which could actually make your product name offensive to them.....
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Controllers
QuotejebbaOur shared internal development directory syncs to the public every hour. Just sayin'.
An hour delay?!?!? Get the pitchforks and torches out to arm the angry mob!!!!!
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General
If you have a Sainsmart package, the adapter board between the Megatronics 2.0 board and LCD does not pass the external SD connection (or the kill switch) through. Only the LCD and rotary encoder work with the Megatronics 2.0.....
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Next Wave Electronics Working Group