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Printing issues ...
Quote55rebelAs far as that second pot is concerned, I will have to drill a hole through the rear board to gain access....ugh.
If they used the exact same LCD panel as the genuine RepRapDiscount GLCD, the second pot is right under the SD card slot on the back of the LCD panel. You can grab it *carefully* and *gently* from the side with a pair of long needle-nose pliers, and turn it 1/8 turn at a
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Reprappers
QuoteAndersEAnybody have input on the milkshake board?
Unless there is a significant price savings (30% or more), I would buy a real Smoothieboard for both support/warranty peace of mind and to support the developers who brought it to us. I had honestly never even heard of the Milkshake board before today. Given their claim that they built a quality replica of the Smoothieboard with the only c
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Controllers
QuoteKurzaaThey should put you in charge of marketing. I see the name dc42 and I think duet printer board.
As he said, they (RepRapPro) have made no effort to market the board outside of their own printers. They have also shown zero (and I dare say negative) interest in supporting Delta and CoreXY in their official firmware. I applaud his work in forking the firmware and making improvements, b
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Controllers
One popular technique being used by some people is a plastic oven bag sized for a turkey. They put the open end over the bed, and I guess poke a hole through the bag for the effector. I have personally never tried it, but it supposedly does work for preventing ABS warping.....
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Delta Machines
Rumor has it that we will soon be seeing this new calibration routine ported to Smoothieware.....
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Delta Machines
I have the Azteeg X5 v1.0 with the DRV8825's and 1/32 microsteps, and recently purchased a Smoothieboard 5xc with A4982's at 1/16 microsteps. Given the number of general reports of problems with picking the correct decay mode on the DRV8825's (and seeing that Panucatt made some changes on the Azteeg X5 v1.1 board), I am not sure that 1/32 is worth the potential problems right now.
Regarding sol
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Controllers
Some day, you will be looking at a plastic frog that just finished printing perfectly and laugh about all of the failures that you learned from to get that frog. Then, you'll put a price tag on that plastic frog and realize why I keep stressing that 3D printer parts should come with warning labels that stress the fine line between hobby and mental obsession. I threw away my first roll of PLA j
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Delta Machines
The RADDS board also plugs directly onto the Arduino DUE board, and is sold in Europe unless something has changed recently. (I have not seen Angelo posting recently.)
You can most certainly buy the RAMPS-FD v1 and make a few well-documented modifications to solve the safety problems. There is also a recent thread here by someone who took a regular 5V RAMPS 8-bit board and made it work with t
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RAMPS Electronics
Use an external SSR to switch the bed power. Problem solved.....
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General
The link that you provided is for the only RAMPS-FD board in mass production...the Geeetech one based on the *flawed* v1 design. For reasons cited above, it is unlikely that we will *ever* see a RAMPS-FD v2 in production. Even the original designer of RAMPS-FD has thrown his support behind the RADDS board.....
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RAMPS Electronics
Others have identified a big pitfall of an AC-powered heated bed being the 50/60 hertz crosstalk it injects into everything. Do you think that this is a problem, or are they over-reacting?????
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Developers
QuotepugzorWould it be suggested to calibrate with blue tape on the bed too?
According to the listing on Amazon, 3M/Scotch blue painters tape is 0.1mm thick. What layer height were you using on your first attempts? I think you can see my point. Bigger nozzles or thicker layer heights let you be a little bit sloppy with the precision, but you still want to be measuring with every variable as c
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Delta Machines
You should always do calibrations at full operating temperature. Metal expands. I've seen someone claim that they measured a 2mm rise (warp) on a square Mk2 heatbed with all four corners firmly anchored just from thermal expansion, which is why some people either use loose bed screws or else torque the bed down at operating temperature. The glass won't warp, but it will rise up if the bed bows
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Delta Machines
Does your slicer du jour's settings include a different layer height for the first layer? It seems like the nozzle is a smidge too high, which impacts extrusion thickness and also bed adhesion. It also seems like your extruder is either slipping on the filament or missing steps. If it has a spring or screws on the pinch roller, try tightening them a bit more. Otherwise, it may be the stepper
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Delta Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentistYou should be able to select "play" from the LCD panel and not use pronterface at all...
I do both, and occasionally even use Pronterface's SD card function. The deciding factor is the filename I wish to print. Longer names look ugly on the LCD, and sometimes all look the same when they get real long. Those are the ones that I "@PLAY" from Pronterface. (The "@" in fro
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Controllers
Time to start adjusting delta_radius. Go a couple millimeters larger (since you have a concave bed motion) and try it again until you find a working value. Then, back to the endstops again, and repeat everything through several iterations until it is right.....
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Delta Machines
Mark your carriage locations on the three extrusions when homed. Z down 100mm. Measure the difference. If it isn't 100.00mm, adjust the steps/mm until it is. Once this is set, you will never need to change it again. Then, start with trying different rod lengths in the firmware to find what works. When everything looks flat, the last thing that I do is put the nozzle at 0,0,0 - mark the spot
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Delta Machines
The only thing that I use Pronterface for (other than the programmable calibration buttons) is to "@PLAY /sd/file.gcode" and then walk away.....
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Controllers
Quotethe_digital_dentistI have inserted an SD card into the GLCD socket and it isn't seen- I think I have to change an option in the config file to get it to read from the GLCD SD card slot.
This is what my config file contains for the Uberclock RRD GLCD interface:
# setup for external sd card on the GLCD which uses the onboard sdcard SPI port
panel.external_sd true
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Controllers
QuoteMils24
When you say that the diagonal rod length is incorrect surely this has to be the exact length of the rods and therefor cannot change? or can you alter this value to trick the software and force it to print flat?
One thing that I've discovered over the past year after calibrating several revisions to my own design is that 3D printers cannot read rulers. Try shortening the rod length
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Delta Machines
With the stacked round holes in their design, it is almost crying for three pieces of round tubing to be inserted as assembly jigs and potentially frame stiffeners.....
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Delta Machines
With a big disclaimer that I really have not paid much attention to the Kossel designs and modifications, I stumbled on something that I thought was unique while looking at something else on AliExpress:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-accessories-parts-Reprap-Rostock-Kossel-mini-K800-DIY-frame-assembly-aluminium-alloy-corner-fittings/32277983202.html
Instead of making a huge bottom
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Delta Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentistI recently put a smoothieboard into my printer. It has an on-board SD card slot that is accessible from a network (wired, not wireless), so theoretically, I could dump a gcode file to the card via the network then start/stop a print via the network.
It is also worth mentioning that Smoothieware also presents the on-board SD card as a removable USB drive over the printer'
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Controllers
@cxandy - I think what the poster above is asking for is the pinout for *your* LCD interface. He claims that your interface pinout differs from the standard RepRapDiscount LCD-12864. Also, the Smoothieware config file pin info you posted above is for the VIKI2 interface, not the RRD-12864.....
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Controllers
Suppose the only difference between the 25A and 40A parts are the stickers on them? Not saying that the pirates have done this, just that I have a 100A SSR with screw terminals small enough that even a blind UL inspector on his first day at work would not approve for that current.
I read somewhere (on the SeeMeCNC forum?) that someone had found a different brand SSR that worked well and had a t
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Developers
I received an email from OpenBuilds the other day, announcing the availability of a new C-Beam extrusion profile that looks interesting:
http://openbuildspartstore.com/blog/cbeam-release/
Looks like it may be a useful profile for someone.....
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
That's the same SSR that I'm using. Just make sure to get the heat sink for it! Also, beware the counterfeit Fotek parts eBay:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=7161
Here's a good thread on SSR's and wiring them:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=7766&p=66815&hilit=ssr#p66815
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Developers
Every RAMPS board that I've ever seen has a 5A input for the heaters/motors and an 11A input for the heated bed. The voltage input terminals and yellow poly fuses standing proud next to them are all sized accordingly. It has been reported that several Chinese RAMPS boards have capacitors that are only rated for 17V, and running those at 24V will let the magic smoke out.
The input terminals are
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Developers
This information is probably more useful, since it applies to the A4988 Pololu stepper drivers that are more common than the Stepsticks:
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board
I used 0.4V on my A4988's, which gives 1.0A of output according to the formula. The motors do not need to be in motion to do the measurement.
My own caution is that some people slip with the screwdriver
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Delta Machines