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Printing issues ...
Has anyone looked into using the Intel Edison SoC and breakout board for 3D printing? Only problem I can see is the lack of sufficient PWMs for those that use many. Apparently can be used just like Arduino Uno R3.
Sparkfun has a stack board that can drive 8 servoes with PWM, so I guess its stock limit wouldn't matter anyways?
It's not cheap, but it's relatively powerful, and runs 32-bit.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
Here's one guy.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
You would need more than the common lathe to make three holes off-center.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Developers
As a lover of all things PLA, and for my first year of printing being exclusively PLA, I can also attest to PLA's lack of real robustness compared to ABS. There's a real reason that ABS is an "engineering plastic."
I'm hoping on PETG coming into my favorite supplier's line, as I trust them to set extremely high quality standards on everything, without the hefty price. PETG is superior in both the
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
Not only is it cheaper, but lighter and stiffer than linear rails. I did a few unscientific tests and actually found V-Slot to be less than half the weight of Linear rails for 1000mm and still stiffer even along the thinner axis of the V-Slot. Yes, the wheels are relatively costly, but you're getting what you pay for. I expect these wheels to last quite a while. As already stated, with V-Slot be
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
Safe to assume you have a direct drive motor on linear rails [8mm?].
Direct drives have a lot* of weight for the speeds and accuracy they demand. They don't like to turn corners all that well and with all that weight on a bouncy suspension causes vibrations after each hard corner.
Typically you can turn acceleration down, most start at 9000m/s2 but I've had to go down to 2500mm/s2 on my badly d
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
In all my slicers I need to put the flowrate at 90% for PLA. It extrudes quite, quite different from ABS.
With the browning in the last one it also looks like your temp is also still too high.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
With PLA, the more air movement the better. It doesn't need to be over a larger area, and the best performance comes from concentrating the air so that the filament cools as fast as possible after it leaves the hotend and is laid on the part.
I've seen a few hectic air movers people have played with on PLA, and it has only ever improved the quality.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'll bring it down on you hard, printing at 500mm/s is extremely unreasonable and so far proven impossible with current parts and designs. 50 micron resolution is quite easy, though, given a good enough budget.
I haven't seen any industrial level success in printing PEEK, but that's more unknown to me.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Polymer Working Group
Very much depends on the filament, heat, but mostly the hotend and extruder.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Mendel90
It's common issue most given to Slic3r, I think they fixed/improved it in newer versions but I don't know for sure.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
I've never "stored" my filament. I've had PLA out in the open for a year and a half and never a change per filament. My printer has been what's changed, as it no longer holds a tuning and doesn't even get fully tuned anymore. I haven't had a flat wall for a few months.
The PLA hasn't changed how it's printed since the start. I've never had them inside a package beyond taking them out of the shipp
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
After hearing about the problems with those bearings I haven't even touched the thought in my mind about getting those.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I am most definitely interested in a CoreXYZ, I'm also not too far into my build, if someone could lay down a firm, basic design I could adapt it to what I have and build it to test. That wouldn't be any time soon, though, as progress is slow.
Either way, I've been waiting to see a CoreXYZ for a long time. maybe try contacting the same people who did CoreXY and getting their thoughts?
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MrDoctorDIV
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
And you've watched the actual instructions on putting them together? I know I had to go back and fix all my wheels as I apparently did it wrong at first.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I haven't done much more, just added two parts to the bed movement. Car needing repairs has stopped progress.
The wheels can get debri or cuts/indents that may be causing the bumps. I had a few of those, I just take two fingers and run them across each wheel as I move it along and feel for where it's happening. Nothing I couldn't fix yet, and only twice. Super buttery smooth otherwise.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
Doesn't solve my mounting issue. I need four points of contact on the underside of the build plate.
That also runs into the SSR required power issue. For printing this large, I will not be printing ABS.
I hope to be printing PETG, so I only need PLA level bed heat to make sure the first layer is perfect and easy. My favorite supplier is looking to expand their range of filaments, PETG included, w
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I didn't find anything real there, it's still just a concept. I've seen many, many concepts of what this guy is looking for, I have yet to see a final build, fully functional with more than just print/mill and I've only seen a rare few of those and they all require more than just a quick swap to change function.
As I don't have experience with a reliable printer, I fully concentrated on that par
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
It's more difficult to extrude into filament than ABS or PLA, which is where the price comes into play .
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
That doesn't solve the mounting issue, but thanks.
I found a few companies that could custom make a Silicon pad with cutouts and everything, but I'd rather spend <$100 and put more effort in than pay >$300 for a ready-made one.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
A non-fellow has developed electronics printing that I apparently missed when it came out a while ago.
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
With PLA, the more air movement, the better as far as I've seen. A blower is in the plan for my printer.
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
Got my carbon fiber sampler pack yesterday, did some tests today and it seems to have everything I want except being pre-made into what I need. Held under a flame it spreads the heat well, take the flame out and it's literally cool to the touch in less than five seconds. Conducts electricity and generates heat as a result. Easily cuttable and shapeable.
Now all I need is to find an electrically i
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
If you do that, make sure you get the right wattage. I avoided using two heating pads because of mounting issues and power consumption. I don't want to have to use an SSR, I like keeping things simple in concept and parts, even if not in manufacture.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
At that size you're going to have to make your own heated bed. 3D printing hasn't reached nearly 1/4 the level of computers in that you can buy something of everything and it hooks together. A super-majority of parts are self-sourced, the beds you see are likely just parts ordered in bulk, put together, and resold. You'll have to find your own parts to make your bed.
I've sourced my aluminum plat
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MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
Don't do Solidoodle, unreliable and not engineered well. Took a lot of modding, mostly by Lawsy, to get the things to even work. It's not built on sound principles.
If it's on Kickstarter and it's too good to be true, it either is, or it will not reach your hands until a year after making it true despite shipping time claims. A rare dime that a Kickstarter leaves on time, dreamy good or not.
Delt
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
It's entirely possible, but the amount of effort and diminishing returns of the results prevent any real common uses. Parts and structures that make things especially good for certain processes may decrease the effectiveness of other processes. For printing you want fast and lightweight, but for milling you want slow and sturdy.
FABtotum seems to have a good thing going on, closest to your idea t
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
If you want to make things in a more powerful and still free program, try Blender. As far as I know, it's the most powerful 3D modeling, animation, and game making open-source software available.
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
When you draw a line, simply click once move in the direction you want it to go, type numbers, enter.
Same applies to tools with measureable movements, like move, pull, rotate, scale, etc. Use the move tool and make sure you have nothing selected, click once on the line you want to move move in the direction you want to move, type the distance you want to move, and hit enter.
My only hate of S
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MrDoctorDIV
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General