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Printing issues ...
The guy actually grew his project here on the forums. It was pretty cool to watch it slowly refine into a cement printer better than any I've seen.
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
I'm designing and building my own printer myself. Not even following a design or instructions. I'm a mechanics guy, so I like it when the software is done for me. I've been heavily thinking about it all day, and I just might make a push for standardized parts, if not design my own.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
Currently trade secret. I came upon the idea when I almost got into another field of self doing projects. Try doing other projects that require you to think and be resourceful, don't skip leg day, doing other things that don't seem related tend to help what you really want to do.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Look what I made!
I haven't read anything into Cura, so I'm completely guessing here- but it seems that Cura is working towards what I think the 3D printing world should be moving towards: doing the little things for you so you can get on with your life and do things in 3D printing that matter. I don't have to spend all day fixing my computer because it's built to do a lot of the stuff for me. I just buy the compo
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
Slic3r has more drawbacks than things going for it, namely in speed; both in slicing and printing. I have found it to always lack in quality as well. Slower, lower quality, why even try?
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
Have you considered printing it with Delrin? It's extremely tricky to print with, harder to do so than ABS even from what I hear, but it's qualities may make it the best suited material for printing gears.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
QuadRap is made to use a single leadscrew with a fancy shmancy balancing system.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
Professional printers use high-grade industrial components and are designed to work at production end, and be ready to use out of box. You pay what you get- all the hard work done for you in a machine that's going to last and require relatively low maintenance.
Software is done within the company, or sourced out to developer company, in either case, it is proprietary and will only work with their
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
I used S3D straight off the bat just fine, but I did notice that its speeds were a lot faster than I used. I think they set it to use the maximum speeds for a well tuned version of whatever you have.
The settings are labeled and displayed differently than your average slicer. Your speed settings are under the Other tab, your extruder moves in near direct relation to your move speed when extruding
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Mendel90
What about using carbon fiber? There are carbon fiber heating tapes , though those are high resistance what if an entire sheet was used? I couldn't find anything on the resistance of carbon fiber composites except that they were conductive.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
Thanks for the suggestions, but something as bulky as a waffle iron would be too much weight for the benefits in my mind. If worst comes to worst I know a few companies that will make custom shaped silicone/polymide film heaters.
I don't have any printed parts, and I plan to keep it that way the entire build. At a maximum, aesthetic parts will be printed, but I hope to avoid even that. I've most
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
People have had the best luck with THF, using it similar to Acetone on ABS.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
The bed only moves on the Z.
Silicone still needs to be mounted on the build plate, and that would make mounting the plate extremely difficult, they're not something I can just drill a large hole through. I don't mind power so much as heating time.
I also am trying to really up the ante on looks. Besides the heating for bed and environment, I've got almost everything figured out in a slick, plea
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
Keeping on IR, what about ceramic heaters? Halogen would be way too bulky and would remove a lot of vertical printing area. If I place two 250W ceramic heaters under my print bed, covered in IR absorbing material, would that be better than two 250W silicone pad heaters?
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
Have you tried upping the temp? Your thermistor may be aged/worn. What is your retraction set at? Have you tried lowering that? Wear on the internals may increase friction, and retraction is the main cause for jams in my personal experience, although not at all a general problem.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
I was thinking about the heating of my larger build plate. It's 300mm by 650mm. Sharp, clean, flat; Misumi gives nothing but quality.
I've got a 300mm X 300mm silicone heat pad that draws 20A at 12V. I would need two of them to effectively cover my bed. That's a fair amount of heat, and more than any one board I've seen can handle. An SSR would be in the works and a high power consumption.
I got
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I'm just going to throw it out there that the jamming on the v6 has actually gotten worse for me on my 1.75mm MatterHacker Pro PLA filament. It was the dirty boy of the v5 and I got the v6 to hopefully leave that problem behind. To no avail. Jams even more.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
If we made a new thread for every new design, we would have an extremely high thread count. As far as I understand, the threads made for printers are typically those that are popular/were popular. Don't ask me anything more specific, because I really don't know. I just know that a majority of designs will not get a thread, whether they want it or not, to keep the number of threads down.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
MatterHackers and 3DXTech for US shipping, best suppliers I've ever come across.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
They're called "closed loop." A simple Google search showed me a plethora of sizes.
Misumi has a configurable length anywhere from 66 to 994mm. They call it 2GT.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
Your tape has my perfectionism cringing. Other than that, good findings.
I tried out the hairspray before and got different results. Of course, I've got one of the hardest hairsprays offered at salons. I've got heavy hair. Everything always stuck, left a shiny underside, but the cleanup was not worth it. I figured it would start coating other components over time, so I stayed away from it.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
Doesn't matter what material you use, a heated bed is a near necessity for raising the quality of your prints like nothing else . PLA will get along without it under the right circumstances, but in all my testing with that, the quality of the first layer or two could never reach that of when I did use the heated bed. I highly recommend the heated bed.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
I can get not only a higher ratio gearbox, but the motor to go with it for cheaper here.
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
Is it supposed to be rotating? Hard to tell what exactly is wrong with it; dark, unclear images. Can you explain more?
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General Mendel Topics
Simplicity mostly. If I can keep it down to a single, closed loop belt, all the better for me. I'm paying the extra dollar to make this beast look as good as it prints. After looking at all of my options, however, I might have to break down and go with pathing reduction. Maybe I can do both, actually.. that's a bit too good of an idea. With a 4.25:1 gear reduction and 4:1 belt reduction, I can ge
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
Testing my print post-processing in the way of adding a wood effect. Heavy effect on top, light effect on sides. I originally messed it up, but it seems to have come out okay. I'll definitely be taking my time and doing it right for products. I only aligned the "grains" on this one, next time I'm going to try and give it a real depth of effect by making it fuzzy in the rear and front, as though i
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Look what I made!
Might be a general safety check, but I have so many changes in environment that I have to change temps by hand just to maintain a single temp. If PID wasn't so solid and was more adaptive, I'd adore it.
Fan/no fan is the biggest changer, between PLA and not PLA. I've gotten down the patterns so I just set a manual temp above/below so when I start it doesn't wait literally forever for a temp that
by
MrDoctorDIV
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Safety & Best Practices
My numbers that I played with.
Is it more important to get an even steps per mm, or microns traveled per step, or should both be relatively flat? Any firmware could take a whole number of steps per mm, say 101. But would that create errors in the way it translates to distance traveled per step?
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General
Prime numbers are truly interesting and fun to play with. Gear ratio of 4.25:1 and 17 tooth pulley result in a nice even 25 steps/mm with a resolution of 40 microns. The ratio "resonates" at 17 base steps. Every multiple of 17 steps results in even number of microns traveled, no matter the pulley tooth count. The same type of math doesn't seem to work for ratio 5.18:1 and 37 tooth pulley. 4.25 ra
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
Is there an odd gear ratio and pulley tooth count that would match up to even steps per mm ?
by
MrDoctorDIV
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General