Show all posts by user

Re: Where to get gear reducers with a flat ratio? - 10 years ago

Thanks gary, after a tad bit of research on A2's point that makes perfect sense. I really hate odd numbers, but for that I think I'll break from my preferences and go for reason this time. I see the point you make A2, I definitely learned something new, but I don't quite see how it would help in the case of positioning systems yet. Starts at one point, and regardless of teeth count of pulley and

Re: designing an easy to build open source 3D printer - 10 years ago

Extremely inefficient use of design. Look up V-Slot, a super majority of your framing can be one stop shopping.

Re: Aluminum Profile Based 3D-Printer - 10 years ago

Not at all hating on it, sorry if that's how you took my comment. A portable printer is one of my planned builds. A foldable delta.

Where to get gear reducers with a flat ratio? - 10 years ago

I've been looking for gear reducers for NEMA motors, but just about every one I've seen is either an odd ratio [99.05:1, labeled as 100:1], extremely high price [~$1285], or require a minimum quantity of 100 or so. Is there a place I can get one with an even/flat ratio ? Either NEMA 17 or 23 fits are just fine with me. I'm specifically looking for 40 and 20 to 1 ratios for 5 micron-step Z and 10

Re: Aluminum Profile Based 3D-Printer - 10 years ago

I'm just going to stick a big handle on my large printer and carry around on my back. That's portable, right?

Re: Does anyone know any 3D filament drop shippers? - 10 years ago

Quotevreihen The 3DXtech stuff is packaged so nicely that I'm hesitant to break the seal! Right? It's insane that packaging alone doesn't shoot the price up to Makerbot prices. They definitely know exactly what they're doing, no doubt about that. The ABS I have is so clean and tight in tolerance, same as the ABS/PA alloy. I've never had anything print so clean, warping aside.

Re: PLA curling up on angled objects. - 10 years ago

QuoteMrDoctorDIV Fan fan fan. Most common and simplest and typically the most effective fix. You need a fan blowing under/around the nozzle so that the plastic cools as quickly as possible once it leaves the nozzle. Just a few examples.

Re: Does anyone know any 3D filament drop shippers? - 10 years ago

They get it from Toner Plastics. I wonder how it stacks up against 3DXTech. I've only bought "cheap" filament once, but they look refined and clean. Cheap in price, but I'm not sure I would call it cheap.

Re: a support material here feature. - 10 years ago

Slic3r had improved supports, I don't remember hearing anything about customizable supports. I also use Simplify3D, it's quite nice as a slicer, although not infinite. It won't handle thin walled parts/items. The standard .5mm calibration box ends up with nothing.

Re: Modify Prusa Wilson TS to use Vslot - 10 years ago

Taking a look at the Wilson TS you're going to have to do more than just redesign the part you want to change. It looks like things were fit to be compact so things will have to be moved around to adjust for the different positions . I don't see a way out of redesigning the whole thing. I've been thinking about designing variants for a lot of the common designs to accommodate the V-Slot since I'v

Re: Webbing when jump extruder concern - 10 years ago

Quotemrkaras higher temperatures have less strings Interesting, in all experiences I have had and heard of it was the opposite. Even in theory it goes against. Less heat more viscous, so less oozing. Depending on your hotend and material you'll have a wide range of retraction distances. Personally I've gone everywhere between 0.2mm and 3.8mm at anywhere between 40mm/s to 100mm/s.

Re: Thinking of building my first RepRap. - 10 years ago

i3 has way too many improvements to make building the i2 reasonable from what I understand. i3 is a popular choice among those on a budget, and even a few who aren't. A good starter as it has a plethora of available help and support. It is as good as the parts and user, but mostly user as they decide the parts/kit that they purchase. I've seen some of the worst prints come from i3's, but I've als

Re: Thinking of building my first RepRap. - 10 years ago

There are so many combinations of people, needs, and situations that there's no golden answer. I've been doing the same, buying parts over time . I find it quite good actually. I've researched for months and I'm building my printer from my own designing and sourcing. I've had to change a few things, but because I'm buying in partials it reduces wasted money as I've slowly built it. What exactly

Re: Burning PLA, ABS, and Nylon - 10 years ago

I did in fact wear a HEPA mask while performing these tests, just in case. "PLA also will not emit toxic fumes when incinerated" so says here.

Re: Burning PLA, ABS, and Nylon - 10 years ago

I actually thought about that too, but it burns away too quickly and a wick would just light the rest on fire. It did have a relatively sweet scent to it though.

Re: Consistant Layer Shift - 10 years ago

A rod irregularity wouldn't make such a sharp change. What kind of threaded rod are you using? Do you know the exact pitch? Are your Z-steps set correctly?

Re: nozzzle clogged with soot - 10 years ago

I can tell you from today's tests that PLA won't burn completely. I don't have full/scientific proof, but I think you made your problem worse by burning it. PLA degrades especially well with too high heat, becoming brittle. In my mind that kind of change means it won't burn fully. I'm not even sure it would all get out once you can get a flow going, again without real knowledge just guessing, it

Burning PLA, ABS, and Nylon - 10 years ago

Did some testing today. Nylon seems to be the least flammable, PLA is closer, and then there's ABS that loves to burn all the things. I had three different PLA manufacturers , but only one of ABS and Nylon. Each PLA burned different from the others. PushPlastic's seem to have a lot of sparking in it, while Chinese was very even and consistent. ABS seems to burn closer to that of wood, giving off

Re: Ultimaker Shield on non-Ultimaker machines - 10 years ago

I didn't read everything to check, but my first questions: Can it support whatever firmware you need? You'll have to upload new firmware in order to apply it to a different movement mechanism. What about number of sensors and types of outputs? Does it support your power requirements and number of powered parts?

Re: Fire Hazard - 10 years ago

Re: Unintended Lip on Vertical Holes - 10 years ago

And if it's in the budget and mechanical inclination, an upgrade to bowden would rid of ghosting almost indefinitely [it's still possible, but I have never seen, nor heard of a case of ghosting with a bowden setup.

Re: Unintended Lip on Vertical Holes - 10 years ago

Hm, I would skip on the belts for now, so long as you don't see any out-of-axis movement and so long as your printer is basically tuned. Loose belts, in my experience, offer uneven walls that are irregularly jagged. A different issue. I would start by turning on acceleration, you do have enough weight and at a second closer look you also have ghosting that proves it is inertia. People typically

Re: ** Experts & Law Makers to Meet Next Month to Discuss Intellectual Property Issues Within 3D Printing ** - 10 years ago

Thanks Matt, I just had a few hours reading spree on a lot of good writings. I've actually never heard of Public Knowledge before, but now that I have I am definitely going to be reading a lot more from them. After reading about seven of his articles I think Michael Weinberg will do a good job in representing us.

Re: Unintended Lip on Vertical Holes - 10 years ago

it's a hit and miss community. I've asked questions that have gone unanswered. Do you have extremely low acceleration? Maybe none at all? Are you belts tight? It couldn't be from too much weight, else there would be ghosting. Are you printing PLA without a fan? Help is better given when more details are available.

Re: Hotend temperature shoots up to max - 10 years ago

Ouch, that's a game that will always be lost. PID needs to be run for every major temp change. The difference between 230C and 260C requires a new PID tuning in my experience. Having jumped to 400C your thermistor is dead I'm sure. You'll have to get a new one. I got my v6 and PID'd at 200C at 8 cycles. I wouldn't print until you get a new thermistor, reporting the wrong temps is a fire hazard.

Re: Making a huge 3D Printer! - 10 years ago

I would try another host before making sketchy changes like that. I'm a long time Repetier Host user so I can't give you much advice there. As a fellow larger scale builder in progress, I think you're spending too much time rebutting people's "nay-saying," so you call it, and not enough listening to what they actually have to say. A lot of your "nay-sayers" are the ones who are truly developing t

Re: Any wizard of ooze? - 10 years ago

Hm. Odd that it wasn't doing it as bad before. My first best guess would be a fault in your thermistor. It may be a cheap one that was damaged with higher ABS temps. Maybe the PTFE was damaged by the higher heat and the heat is reaching further up the filament. A note: PLA expands when it heats, that's why all metal hotends need active cooling, especially for PLA. Maybe a combination of the two.

Re: V-Slot is totally solid, reliable, and modular - 10 years ago

When I remove the bearings I take the same screw and give it sideways pressure like a lever. Just pull out while keeping it sideways. Gripping the screw is the hardest part.

Re: ** MAKERBOT CLOSES GOOGLE SUPPORT GROUP ** - 10 years ago

QuoteBill Clark I think you made a great choice with the UM A2. I wont even bother raising my BP by commenting on MB. "Made by: Christian Arnø" A2's building his own printer, he was quoting another person.

Re: Calling all USA 3mm PLA users - 10 years ago

I just installed my v6 yesterday and woah. I didn't think it was that much of a jump. Everything flows so smoothly and I've used much lower temps, by about 35C. I didn't retune my printer at all but it made it look so much better. My fan isn't permanently connected, so if it shakes to much it only works intermittently. That's when the PLA would jam, but after the fan resumed it would actually unj