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Printing issues ...
I recommend V-Slot, I do not, sadly, recommend how seca went about the Z-axis. It has very limited pros and may work well for him, but it is by no means a general use design in my opinion. Way too much extention, as seca stated there is too much vibration. Your speeds and quality will be greatly reduced along with ghosting from the access weight it's throwing around. It does make bed alignment e
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MrDoctorDIV
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
I can't think of a situation where E3D v6 wouldn't fit any situation except for fit/shape/needing dirt cheap price over functionality.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I pause the print and home the X-Axis immediately , remove the filament, chop off the expanded end , reinsert and resume. It leaves that layer a little lacking, you can definitely see it, but it's better than no print at all .
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
jbernardis is spot on. I get this on my Solidoodle as a result of such small, wide-spread rails. It's the bouncing of the extruder's weight when turning corners. I've had to cram my acceleration down to 3000mm/s2. Other ways to help are tightening belts , lightening the load through bowden upgrade, etc. It's all about inertia. I also have ridging from motor steps, so I can tell you they are separ
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
Right now I'm at 10:27am
Edit: posted at forum's 9:28am
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MrDoctorDIV
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Sandbox
I think that if the copy-shops that don't produce properly made products and still put their links in the wiki we should move their link/label their link as a shopper not to go to. Then, for trying to assert their false advertising, if they are found by other means after someone had checked that page, they can be avoided. Just an idea, but my ideas are often malicious , so cup of salt to be take
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
3mm has increased friction naturally, so you're problems are likely to be on the worse end. Filament suppliers also play a role. I've got MatterHacker's PLA [1.75mm] and I have both their standard and their Pro series filament. The cheap stuff actually prints a lot easier, it runs through easily and has never jammed to something that wasn't my fault . The pro series filament, although running but
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
Just getting around to thinking about it but does an Arduino even have a single clock short enough for measuring such a short time?
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
Haha! Well, that's funny! Just got around to actually watching the how to install video. Shows it right there. Just call me Billy from now on. I thought the washer was for the aluminum spacer being a different width so it wouldn't tip. But I still need the extra spacers I ordered for my pulleys and how I have everything spaced. Wow.. smartest guy ever. Can't count how many times I've reinvented t
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I've looked at the idea and wondered about it, but seeing the high cost of professional laser measure with enough accuracy for my liking I've not gone anywhere with it. If you could develop something, I'd be all over that.
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
Also, the longer spans of the H-bot belt allow for more stretching, sagging, etc. CoreXY is anti-racking in multiple ways allowing for a looser/cheaper frame to be utilized while maintaining quality and lightness. Also working with two planes isn't much of anything for me to do.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
The extrusion width and nozzle diameter are two different numbers. Your extrusion width, by rule of thumb, should be 1.2X your nozzle diameter.
I typically use 3-7 top/bottom layers depending on my layer height.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
Thanks for the added info. If I ever use linear rails again I'll keep that in mind if I decided to use an extra lubricant. Being how V-Wheels are, it could only help.
Something I just found that might help others using V-Slot:
If you put a precision shim [1mm thick, same one included in the kit available separate at 25 cents/pc] between the two bearings inside the wheel, you can then tighten the
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I used S3D exclusively now . I've had no major issues, clean, sharp prints, and any small issues I've had I've easily fixed except one: thin walls cause problems with S3D. Slic3r had its limits, but S3D's seems to be thicker in its limit. It just trashes the wall and will not print it. The 0.5mm calibration cube prints as nothing when sliced with S3D. I have a 0.3mm nozzle. I haven't run into any
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
What I meant by one motor was then using one on both sides. Using belts would make using both sides with one motor undesirable.
Here's my next adaptation, this time taking the time to show my full idea. Green points are motors. Any ends of the belts could be used to tighten/align.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Developers
Just throwing out my potentially useless thought:
You were using the same temp on both, correct? I've noticed in my limited tests that ABS will parse like that along bridging areas when temp is too low.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Printing
Blue tape and 45C always perfect for me, even if my bed is both too high or too low it sticks well. I often take up tape when I pull up the print, having to replace tape about every fifth print.
Just thought I'd add since it was brought up. I haven't gone with cold as corners and starts didn't appear the best no matter what I tried. Heat is where it's at for me. All I have to do is make sure ther
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MrDoctorDIV
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Delta Machines
I will certainly take a look at Teflon then.
Oh, and, thanks
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
QuoteSublime
Cable Z cons on Tantillus:
1) Very difficult to create a drum that ends up with an even steps per mm.
2) With the rounding errors created by the drum size you end up with a limited number of possible layer heights available to use.
3) Having the drum directly attached to the motor without any gearing the possible layer heights without large rounding errors is limited even further (My
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
Question to the master designer: how would you implement this as a single axis for Z bed movement?
My feeble attempt was adding another layer of stringing so that it would be 4X the resolution to make a flat 10micron 1/4 step.
Used on one side and evened out using the QuadRap's bed leveling.
If you could somehow shove it down to one motor so that it could be used on both sides, that would be
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MrDoctorDIV
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Developers
In getting the gantry parts printed and fitted I have moved on to the bed part of designing. I have a larger build area, about 650mm by 310mm, so keep in mind that weight is in play with the bed and heating/mounting parts. You can see the frame of my printer here.
Even beyond my specific build, what are the differences between rods and belts in driving the Z-Axis? I know the basics, that belts t
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
The V-Slot is anodized normally, and I have the black anodized, so that's not visible to me. They certainly talk up the smoothness and precision of the grooves. I notice that it is sharp on the internal corners along the whole length. I've nearly punctured myself on the corners a few times. When I got my frame built and aligned the gantry glides evenly smooth along the whole length. I don't have
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I first bought a Solidoodle and over a year have learned much from it, although I regret buying that specific printer. I'm, even at the moment, working on building another printer from my own designs and sourcing my own parts. Comparatively, I'm learning undeniably more from desigining and building my own printer. Researching all the best deigns for my needs and learning so much more and in the
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MrDoctorDIV
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General
The gantry* moves as a whole when any force, small distances included, is applied. It takes a some amount of racking force to get even half a mm of racking, a fair amount to get 1mm. I plan to fine tune the bearing positions to lessen that. The eccentric spacers make that quite easy, just time consuming to isolate where it's happening, why, and moving it the right amount. I really like the eccen
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
Situation 1:
If the attached belt is attached at the center of weight, or near it.
Situation 2:
Tolerances are tight enough that any attempt to create a racking of the carriage results in no visible/audible racking .
Edit: To note, in actual testing I used both hands to create the forces, and not light pressure either .
I plan to get some silicone spray to lube the extrusions.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
This is the clearest writing I've found recently that talks about it.
And yes, by rotation I mean racking.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
A question to the public:
H-bot's drawback is simply a racking of the gantry, correct? The only problem that CoreXY overcomes is the rotating of the gantry?
So if two situations were implemented on an H-bot-- 1, that the attached belt be attached and aligned on the center of the gantry's weight; 2, that the gantry be of such tolerance as to not rack even when attempting to force it to do so by ha
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MrDoctorDIV
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Mechanics
A question to the public:
H-bot's drawback is simply a racking of the gantry, correct? The only problem that CoreXY overcomes is the racking of the gantry?
So if two situations were implemented on an H-bot-- 1, that the attached belt be attached and aligned on the center of the gantry's weight; 2, that the gantry be of such tolerance as to not rack even when attempting to force it to do so by han
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MrDoctorDIV
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Reprappers
I know it's post hijack, I'll remove this after if you'd like.
I need some design critique as I have finally put this together after months of research and still another month to go waiting on parts and building it. For the framing and linear motion is what I'm mostly asking about, but if you see anything else worth noting, please note it.
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MrDoctorDIV
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Developers
Quotethejollygrimreaper
at the moment printing all sorts of parts for my newly built corexy,
did this yesterday at a 0.075mm layer height:
Dang, Jolly. Calm down. Any better and I'll have to sue you for infringing on my dreams of quality.
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MrDoctorDIV
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General